Ok I do know that there are many threads on this but I have not found all the answers I need so please dont flame and try to help me out the best you guys/girls can. I am looking to boost my B18a. I know how a turbo works and all of that but were do I start as far as mods go? I have seen stuff to were rods can make the LS 1.9, 2.0, 2.2 is this with it bored out and how much bore(specs)? With a bore I do need sleeves right? Do I need to port and polish the head and by how much or does it depend on what I want for HP gains? I dont know much about the bottem end if you cant tell. Can a stock b18a be boosted and how safe is it to do. I am looking to start getting parts to do this within the next month then get the turbo kit its self later. Looking to get a T3/T4 set up. Would like to get an Greddy.
I’m looking into doing this myself, so I’m still looking for questions too. From what i’ve found, it will probably be better to put your own kit together instead of buying a kit(i.e. GReddy), that way you can choose how you want to route the pipes, whether or not you want to keep A/C and PS, etc.
I personally am thinking about having my block bored and sleeved to 2.0L as from what I’ve read, stroking it isnt always the best way to get more liters out of it.
Most people will probably tell you that to be safe, you probably wont want to boost a stock bottom end past 7psi. Maybe 8 if you tune well enough.
I’ve learned a lot from both here with the turbo guide and reading up on homemadeturbo.com. Also, xenocron has a website in which he talks about boosting his teg.
Anyways, like i said, i dont know a whole lot yet, but i’m reading up best I can so if I learn more I’ll try to help you too, but hopefully xenocron or somebody can come by and help you more.
Chris
Yeah dont stroke it…and unless you are getting it resleeved with stronger sleeves…dont overbore the stock block either.
In a stock block, rods usually go first, followed by pistons and then sleeves. You can safely boost a completely stock bottom end anywhere from 8-12 psi and be safe. I’m sure you can go higher and be safe but im not going to say that.
And you dont need to port 'n polish your head…not worth the extra $$. Use that money on other go faster parts.
Thank you guys very much for the info. So lets say I do a bore to a 2.0 what kind of sleeves and rods do I look at getting? Also do you guys/girls have an idea on how much it costs just to bore out or does it depend on were I go??
Your hp goals will determine what mods your block needs. From 250 to 300whp (just put ARP headstuds in). Just leave well enough alone and boost it if the engine is healthy. I know you say you know how turbos work etc, but you need to understand the basic principals when its introduced into your car (ie: why the need to sleeve bigger, what injectors to use with my setup, what clutch to use, what engine management, what compression would work good with my goals, what fuel system would work with my goals, what plugs work best with my goals, how much boost I intend to run. If your not a guy thats constantly under your hood monitoring the vitals, turbo is not the best choice. You always have to travel with a tool box and spare parts (ie: vaccum lines, hoses, clamps etc) cause shit always happens when your away from home. All of what you mentioned is not nessesary if your goals are under 350hp. Tunning and high grade pump gas is all you need with a bit of common sense and your car will last a long time. Parts don’t break themselves, bad judgement and human error does. What is your goal with hp? then go from there.
I have already thought about that stuff, I also know what is under my hood and how a motor works and what fuel is and what puts fuel in the motor. I have not yet blown a motor do to bad driving and I have owned 3 tegs and one civic. I know what tools are and that is importent to have them in ANY car boosted or not. I have always done 90% of all my work to all my tegs and corolla so I know how to turn a bolt or two. I also know how a clutch and flywheel work as well. I am asking what is good for the block b/c I dont know what parts work best with a turbo and I dont want to f&@% it up not b/c I dont know crap about my car. Thanks though for pointing all that out for me. I have just learned alot more of what to look for.
Thats good bro, what are your hp goals with this new setup?
I would like to hit 250 280 to the wheels. Im not sure if im 100% doing this b/c i use my car mainly for autocross so turbo may be alittle much but i plan on getting another teg soon. first thing im doing is building up the motor non-vtec and going from there. I just want to build a car that can have turbo if a slam one on.
My reccomendation would be forged pistons and rods for the bottomend and ARP head studs and good valve train for the head ( springs and retainers) (leave in the stock cams, they work good) if you like to autocross. The sleeves I would leave stock. If your goals were more 1/4 mile I would say leave the engine stock but use ARP head studs. Reason being is a 1/4 mile pass is giving her some licks for say about 13 to 14 sec at a time. Autocrossing is alot longer and generates more heat so you want to be safe in those areas. 450cc injectors, a good engine management system, 225 Walbro intank pump, a 1 to 1 fuel pressure reg, a good clutch, T3 turbo, wastegate if you don’t have one that comes stock with your turbo, blowoff valve of some sort (Eagle Talon one works fine), 2 1/2" downpipe and complete exhaust, Moroso or OBX oil pan that has proper oil baffling so you don’t starve the motor of oil in turns, a decent intercooler and some good tunning and your set.
Thanks for the pointers man, Ill keep all that in mind. Answered a few questions i had about my set up with autocross.
listen to xenocron, his advice is on point. 250 whp is definately doable on a healthy motor. i plan on doing 250whp this upcomming summer on a stock b18 bottom end with 99k miles, with only arp headstuds