b18a1 t3/t4 .63 11psi

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
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Got mine running about a week ago. Didnt have one leak or any problems, turned key started right up. No smoking, idles like factory, ect. I couldnt believe it actually worked, I’ve never done nothing like this. Turns out, its a whole lot faster than I or my tuner ever expected. I’ve raced 2 other cars and beat the brakes off em, 8 - 10 car lengths. Boosted t3 t4 b20 @ 5 psi in a civic and a 98 LS integra with a turbonetics kit. I don’t know why but there was no comparison with either cars. I have a gtec pro meter thats probably wrong and it says I runs a 12.96 in 1/4 mile @ 15 psi. That was kinda pushin it lean. Im taking it to the strip and were gunna try to bust into the 12s on paper with slicks.

Even though this is a cheap kit and a budjet build it really is a blast to drive and for under 3k in the whole car you cant beat it. Right now I have it somewhat taken apart getting new axles, huge tenzo rotors, new calipers, wheel bearings, subframe, steering rack, alignment, adj camber a arms, and some other goodies.

Most of the parts were bought on eGay or were ssautoshyeett freebies.

93 LS SE b18a1 130k Bone Stock, Tranny 60k
Braced ssauto manifold
3" stainless downpipe [not pictured]
Tial Knock off 38mm waistgate
ssauto turbo rebuilt with garrett internals & oil line restrictor
2.5" universal egay intercooler pipe kit
egay front mount intercooler
egay fuel pressure reg & gauge
DSM 440cc blue tops & resistor box
HA sport mounts and hydro conversion
Type S knock off BOV
egay oil catch
NGK BKR7E plugs .30 gap
It needs lots of tuning its at 1 degree per pound retard.
Crome chipped ecu

Please don’t knock my cheap crap, I know the quality isnt the best and Im sure my turbo is going to blow, waistgate is going to creap, pipes gunna pop, oils gunna seep, manfold will crack, downpipe will rub, Bov will leak and it will probably blow the engine. I dont give a crap, Its lasted more than a hr running, the waisted money on cheap parts doesnt matter, I’ve already got my moneys worth and got a taist of boost. Now just like everyone said and I knew I’m slowing replacing every cheap part on it. I would have been better off buying quality parts, I know this.

I’d like to make some vids of the lil car ripping around.

Thanks for your time.

Im looking for a spare block so I can send it off to get sleeved.

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nice set up… youd be suprise how long the ebay turbo kits will last. one thing for sure is the manifold it will crack… the other parts will last. theres a cast iron turbo manifold on ebay for $130… we put the ssauto shit on my friends b20 civic with the cast iron manifold and its been running for awhile now. made 240wtq on 8 psi!

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Thanks a bunch, The ss auto manifold is a bit newer and has some factory bracing on it. I am going to get my mig out and put some more braces on it. I’ve already looked into some other manifolds and a cast is prob in my future. Eventually I going to get a lovefab or something similar. I’m running a oil restrictor to try to save my seals, but everything seems to work great. A friend of mine also with a b20 5th gen civic coupe has this kit with a cast manifold running 5 psi, its nice, but I beat the brakes off it. I guess a couple pounds of boost turns out to be alot of car lengths. Thanks for your time

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im also gana run an xs power turbo let me know how it turns out
let it rip enjoy it as much as possible i know i will. BOOST IS BOOST no matter wat parts u use. congrats

any pics of the car?

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I sure hope you didnt run it with all those cut vacuum hoses and with the pcv port left open. But for real that’s awesome, it doesn’t even matter what it runs in the 1/4 as long as your happy. I cant wait to get started on my install.

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ic that u use the tranny of that year too and ur not using a cable-hydro conv. u actually using slave and the master cyl.:up:

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congrates bro. per lbs of boost is somewhere are 8-15 whp. So with you running about 5-6psi more will make a huge diffrence. I too got lucky with the bin I started out with.

My personal opinions on that manifold is as long as the turbo is brace(not the manifold) and its nothing bigger than the standard t3/t4 I think you should be good.

:rimshot:

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8 - 10 car lengths… vs a civic with a boosted b20?

15 psi on a stock motor? :baby:

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“Please don’t knock my cheap crap, I know the quality isnt the best and Im sure my turbo is going to blow, waistgate is going to creap, pipes gunna pop, oils gunna seep, manfold will crack, downpipe will rub, Bov will leak and it will probably blow the engine. I dont give a crap, Its lasted more than a hr running, the waisted money on cheap parts doesnt matter, I’ve already got my moneys worth and got a taist of boost. Now just like everyone said and I knew I’m slowing replacing every cheap part on it. I would have been better off buying quality parts, I know this.”

man for 3k u did f*ckin amazing. as fpr part n shit goin to heel who cares just replace them with even better parts down the road when u have the money again but in the mean time u have urself a inexpensive well working turbo, thas has caught my eye. i myself am thinkin of turbo charging my 93 ls with 155XXX Km on it, altho the km is highish, i’m the second owner of it. the first was a 50 year old single lady that lived on the vancouver coast might be a granny car but everything is great clutch perfect lil tono rust that cant be fixed compression is all their everything connects and i can still light them up in second and everything is still stock (until spring). idn if u could maybe giveme some tips or advise things u would do different and overall sugestions it would be good because like u i’m new to the whole turbo thing. but i have a bit of money i can spend on tunin my car. msn is gravedig18@hotmail.com if u wanna chat with me or just email me. more pics would b cool too:gotpics:

also i wont be boostin 8-15 lbs thas a lil scary to me unless i start rebuildin my motor which i dont really want to do any time soon. i’d feel much better running a 7-10lbs boost myself.

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looks good although i speak from experience… those manifolds are shitty.
you will end up spending more just replacing that when u could have spent 450$
on a nice ramhorn.

reguardless it will be nice. and I like the sharpie firing order diagram.

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who cares about how shitty someones setup is, i saw a 88 civic painted 6 different colors with the most ghetto turbo setup. Home made charge, dp, manifold and with a tiny T25 all welded up without gas on a Mig so it looks like hell. The main point is the thing fucking goes. who cares for how long. Anyone building a turboed car knows that you’re in for disaster sooner or later and go ahead and tell me and everyone else in here that " ya but he could have done a better job" sure he could have but he’s happy cause what ever way he did take, he’s boosting.

I took the expensive route and have now spent 13,000 in the past month. i am trying to do it right but could blow up on the dyno the day i turn it over, who knows.he spent a fraction of what i have but he’s boosting and im not yet, so i give him props.

My one question is why on earth did you make it less reliable by cutting the valve cover to show the cams?
if they arent adjustable dont open it up to foreign debris that could fuck you right over. Anything sharp falls down in there, be it a piece of shrapnele say goodbye to your motor

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:umno:

i know of several people who have had some stock engines boosted, and some with a mild build boosted running for over a year without major problems.

the only thing you need to run by to have a reliable setup, is to know your limits, have it tuned, keep up with regular maintenance, and watch out for early/any signs of wear.

doing a better job could have been done, but wanted to save money, so then there’s taking risks. that’s where it is. the money part, i dont really say anything because i’ve been in that hole alot, i know when there’s nothing you can do to get the better part, or save a grand more for the better paint job, etc, you work with what you have. if i could’ve done it again, i woulda held off on things, and saved up. but live and learn, i had fun in the “low money kid wanting to turbo my honda” stage, along with my cheap paintjob that was better then the primer/spraycan paintjob days.

and i quote “13,000” dollars? in a built turbo engine? :roll:

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by no means am i raggin on his setup.
Its just a bit of helpful info, and not only have I built a few turbo cars/engines I own 2.
I kno from experience… SSautopoop is truly ze poop
still want to argue over known facts, go right ahead.

yea 13,000? where do you buy your parts NASA?

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ah, I could easily find 13k worth of parts to buy. I’d have one hell of a setup.

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if i had 13 grand to spend on a motor, it’d be done already, for less than 10, then the 3 would go to fine tuning

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13,000
not only is that stupid but unbelievable.

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well when u say “o that is a good manifold” and stuff like that to bad quality parts, new ppl see it and buy the shit up and then have it breaking. We are all here to help ppl out and many of us on the site have had experience with this parts and are not just speaking out of our asses.

so when we say something is shitty, it probably is.

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When you guys speak of “ss auto”, are you refering to SS Autochrome based in North Carolina? I was curious because I was close to getting that t3/t4 with the wastegate and blow off valve for $275. Please give me feedback to whether or not these products are any good. Are the turbos they sell, reliable? How long will it last? Does anyone have experience with this company’s service?

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did you not see this thread at the top of the FI section?

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149402

stay away from ss autochrome products

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shizzott-Any updates…???dyno numbers…???