So I’ve decided on swapping the B18a (1990 version) for the B20z/b. I know the swap is pretty straight forward but I wasn’t too sure about how the additional fuel situation will be resolved. I know a lot of you have done this swap and I wanted to get some feedback on this area of it.
I had been thinking a adjustable fpr would suffice along with a wideband to get the ratio right? Thoughts are welcome! Id like to keep the stock ecu (if I’m able to stay obd0)
Any swap info, or problems you’ve run into, feel free to give some advice. Thanks G2
Idk about fuel, but I swapped a B20B into my '91 DB1 straight up. I didn’t do anything with the fuel system. And if you want a fresh motor, check out HMO (Honda Motors Online)
Yeah I know where to get the motors, but without adjusting your fuel, chances are your running lean without some sort of b20 fuel map… I wish I could keep the stock ecu and run a nice mixture.
There is no need to modify you fuel system for .2 more liters displacement. Switch over all your old parts to the new motor and it will run like stock! I don’t know where you are getting you info from! Let me put it to you this way, in the 80’s GM used the same TBI system on all of their v6’s and v8’s. The same injetors, TB’s and sensors! If they can get away with adding two more cylinder, your .2 more liters will be okay. the only reason to chip your ECU is for more performance. if you just want it to run like stock leave it alone!
I have a B20b swaped DB1, and it is running on the stock ECU, injectors and pump. As far as it knows, it still has the B18a in it! I swaped over ALL of the old parts to the B20. the only part that is not from the B18a is the after market manifold that was on the B20 when I got it!
For the record I hate GM’s TBI. They were just lazy when designing it! I also know that Honda’s PGMI is a completely different system, I just needed an example.
This seems to be a big topic for the B20 swap… “the stock ls ecu may be able to compensate for a little bit, but not enough to run like a stock b20 map”. Hey, I’m game if I can keep the stock ecu and not change a thing, but with the change in compression (9.6:1 for the b20z) I had thought it might be necessary to up the fuel a bit, or program a b20 base map in so its not running lean.
That’s what I was thinking was going fpr… or even a step further and getting a chipped ecu from Phearable.com and having them burn a b20 basemap with a few bolt on mods. My only question is whether that will be safe to run a chipped ecu with a basetune and not worry about a dyno tune. People always say if you have FI or a built motor you have to get it dyno tuned after getting a basemap, but since mine will be stock with some bolt ons… I would think it would be safe?
A stock computer would run it well enough to where you wouldnt be risking damage to your motor, but it wouldnt be perfect. A FPR could be used to eyeball/dial in fuel based on how your plugs look, but unless you know exact numbers from a wideband (or have a very good eye for that kind of thing) its more-or-less a shot in the dark.
A chipped ecu/base map from a reputable company (Xenocron/Phearable, etc) would be fine to run on without a visit to the dyno, but again, it wont be perfect… It would be advised to check your plugs after the first hundred or so miles to make sure it is burning decently.
Its a virtually stock motor… it doesnt need anything special.
That’s kind of what I’ve figured… Its my autox car so I would like it to be able to handle the abuse safely. If a base tune would have it run safely then that’s all I care about!
Im not completely doubting that its reliable. Im just saying, there are a loooot of people who have done this swap and are running lean with there setups. You have the low compression motor anyway so that would make the biggest difference in this case. If it was the 9.6:1 CR then you might be leaning out more.
Anyone else? Im also not sure about the knock sensor on the back of the B20z block… what do i do with that guy?
I would leave it stock if you just drive it to and from work, if you really want to make sure your running tuned then get your ecu chipped for the b20 and a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure guage to make sure your at stock 43.5psi to ensure proper fuel delivery…
you dont really need more fuel since you dont even rev it past 7k rpms right comp…ared to a b18c that revs up to 8700k rpms…
Ok, so now wouldn’t adjusting the fuel pressure mess with the base tune? Phearable said there wouldn’t be a need to get any dyno tune, etc. and that a base tune would be accurate enough due to the motor being stock w/a few bolt ons.
I just want some feedback on how the fpr would effect the tune?
Holy hell… i’ll say it again, youre making it more difficult than needed.
Yes, an FPR is going to have an effect on the base tune… you’ll either richen or lean it out. But without a wideband, you wont know where youre sitting.
If Phearable says you’ll be fine, then go for it. Just check your plugs, as i mentioned.
I just went and did it! .2l’s is not enough to make you run lean. The people that are running lean have something else going on to…Like a bad fuel pump or regulator. They may not even know themselves! I know that I am running rich right now due to a falling O2 sensor! I say stop wasting time and do it!!!
EVERYTHING is exactly the same. My fans work just fine. Really all I did was plug and play. I pulled the old motor, swapped all my stuff, and dropped the B20B in. Plain, simple, done. Check my thread on team-integra.net I have the same username. I can’t remember everything right now but at the time I was pretty detailed when I did the swap. Reason not to check it here is because I’m still in the process of fixing my pictures. Stupid Photobucket and bandwidth limit >:[
Everything is the exact same. Only thing that IS NOT is the fact my B20 came with a plug in the block where the fan switch would be into your B18…I just jumped the fan relay so that my fans are on whenever my key is turned to power…I live where its hot so it doesn’t make a difference to me. If your running into other issues with the swap, you are doing something wrong. It’s all direct swap over.
If your going to the trouble to do the swap you should be doing it right and replacing things like o2 sensors, gaskets on the motor and manifolds, fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, etc etc…be smart and your car will reward you for it in the long run, be a cheap ass and your car will reflect it. Plain and simple.
You could benefit from a tune, but you should at the very least have full I H E… but that’s just me.
