im building a b20VTEC which will be my daily driver…what compression would be best for this set up? i want an NA set up with over 200hp, so i can have fun, but something that drives smooth so i can take it under 3000RPM and just drive normally. got a b20b, putting a GSR head on there with stock internals in the head, and chipped p72 ECU. im gonna balance the crank, put new bearings, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, type R oil and water pumps. i wanna be able to pass my buddy with an h22a prelude (92 SR with jdm h22a). so what compression ratio should i do when i get some pistons, and anything else im missing? i already knows about the b20-VTEC conversion kit i need, head gasket, wiring, and knock sensor…but what else? i always search, but every thread is either missing something, or adding something, so its hard to keep track lol
The h22 will still win. sorry!
hard to say…i already tried him with my b20, and he doesnt pull that much away from me anyways…he shifts quick and at the right RPM but i shift quicker i guess…and he is a bit heavier than me, dunno how many kg but he is.
h22a’s in 4th gen ludes arent that quick man, i think a b20vtec would take it IMO.
How much would your budget be?
If you want to keep things simple. What you can do is rebuild the block with B20Z pistons to up the compression up to 9.x…I forgot. Stock B20b is 8.8. Using the B20Z pistons would make it a good daily driver.
As far as other mods.
-b20z pistions
-golden eagle head studs. They have one for the b20b to gsr head kit.
-golden eagle LS/Vtec oil kit
-arp rod bolts
-block guard
-new gaskets and seals
Thats as far as basic.
And if you want to have a nice pep around…
-ITR Flywheel
-ACT heavy duty clutch
-Rocket Cams
-Cam Gears
-Supertech Valvetrain
-B16 Short Gear’ed Tranny.
That would def give you balls to rip your friend a new one.
ha! i race my friend with a jdm h22 swap same mods as me all the time he didnt beat me until he got his ecu chipped.they have alot of topend power
i already got a ITR flywheel, im getting ITR cams from my buddy with a civic B18C5 (he wants even more aggressive cams), gonna put stiffer valve springs. was thinking of keeping it basic (like 1320DA said) for a while, and eventually putting a Crower stroker kit, and upping it to 2.25L with darton sleeves, that would be awesome! i know it’s expensive but i think it’s worth it. as for the lude, an EF with SOHC si motor gives him a hard time…i never raced him yet, but have been in his car a lot, and he has the same feeling as me. im straight pipe (cause my muffler fell off and dont feel like fixing it in the meantime), have a b20b p8r (and yes im selling the head when my motor is built up), a chipped ECU (Mugen, don’t know which one, but it costed a lot lol) and CAI.
If you want to beat an h22, I would suggest a slightly higher compression besides 8.x or 9.x.
http://www.racetep.com/jeimport.html
I don’t know if you wanted to go with non oem parts, but you can easily get your compression up in the mid 12’s with some of these pistons if you wanted to.
i was thinking somewhere in the 11’s. start off in the 10’s before i get my stroker kit. with the stroker kit i’ll ask for 11.0:1 pistons, dont wanna go too high, thats enough for me. any one know if the stroker is a good idea or waste of money? www.inlinefour.com go check out engine, internals, stroker kit.
Got dibs on the head!!
wont be for sale for another few months, but i’ll post it when it is 
post it with me as first dibbs!!
no problem bro
11:0.1 compession is good
Stock sleeves right
if you were asking about the crower stroker kit… they are very good but i would order it through crower not inline four. but the crower kit is not a drop in kit. you would have to have your block machined. but it is a great kit
stock sleeves yes, crower kit will go in when i got some Darton sleeves, and i know that i will maybe have to hone the block out for the crank, and installing those sleeves will be expensive as well, so this will basically be held off to next year when im done school and start bringing in some good cash.
the stock 89mm crank is fine. Don’t waste your money
Just get it balance
92mm crower crank has a bad R/S and that does not go well with high RPMs
street car = 87mm or 89mm
Race car = 92mm or 95mm
alright thanks for the insight. apparently the B18A crank would be better than the B20B crank, is this true? i heard this somewhere. if that’s the case, i got a B18A crank in my room (using it for decoration lol), i will just slap that one in there.
I think the B20 has a 89mm crank
89mm will be fine
People have made 260whp on that crank
Buy a Nice Header, ITBs with the money
alright then, another thing less to worry about. i wanted to also get a skunk 2 IM (since im going all motor, and no turbo) with 65mm TB (maybe from an H22) some headers (DC sports for now, Toda when im feeling wealthy lol) and an RS*R exhaust system. how many CC injectors should i be good with? 320 good enough?