at operating temp at low rpm it would sputter from taking off like no powerband after take off or at the take off stalled on me twice then it gets back to normal around 2500 but when its still cold it runs fine no heistation at all havent noticed anything when its still cold but when it is at operating temp seem like vacuum hose leak on the map sensor (firewall mounted) i replaced the short vacuum hose for a longer one and a little tighter fit to it seem it didnt fix the problem i ve done cleaned out the intake manifold iacv and fitv her first summer i adjusted the fitv half way in idles at 2,000 rpm at cold start up last few days ago i adjusted the fitv valve thingy again all the way in now it idles above 1,000 at cold start up seem normal now than before when it was at 2000 at cold start right? i did it because i have hard time starting at 40-60 degrees outside cap, rotors are new wires are still good at least 1 and half yr old replaced 02 sensor july or august been trying pull her back up to a healthy car still running like shit since i got the shell and swapped the b20 in, the car was boosted by previous owner been thinking about getting a fuel regulator and gauges with it but my dad and brother keep telling me i dont need it but id like to tune it cuz it seem like its running lean i dont have way to order it i have pay pal but dont know how to use it lol and i dont have ebay account
. ← this is a period. it is used to end a sentence. i know, i know. lets get down to it then. have you checked for codes? what year is the car?
nope, no codes! its 90 0bd0. but it did had code 43 it was june or something. it was 02 sensor and i burned (melted) the 02 sensor wire on the exhaust. i didnt tie them up at all need to get it sorted out.
i’d like to add,
new pcv
new filter
soldered main relay
anything i could think of is fuel pump but i dont want to waste $ if it wont fix the problem.
there is alott to do like rear engine/tranny mount put steel brake lines in, drilled rotors on and extend the fan switch wire as well still tryin to figure everything out like this sometime it wont crank at all a few tries to start it, cold start, heistation at operating temp, brake and suspension problems this car was molested and abused as fawk i think i could have fixed the cold start issue yesterday we will see again tomorrow morning lol
since your initial problem occurs onced warmed up, i’d try disconnecting the o2 sensor. see if the problem persists. this will at least give some direction to start narrowing down the problem
ok ill try that today, and i can try fix the melted 02 sensor wire also. while im at it what kind wire i need to use? shielded wire?
so the wire is still melted to the manifold? if so,then the signal is probably shorted to ground, and causing your hesitation issues. that needs to be fixed asap. you can’t cut the melted portion out and reconnect?
so i disconnected it the issue seem more noticeable same kind of response and more rougher around 1500-3500 then after that it pulls like vtec. lol so i only got melted wire do i cut them to make it shorter im not sure if it will reach though i heard or read something have to have shielded wire?
sounds like timing might be off a tad. that would cause crap power at a low RPM
yeah probably when i set the timing with timing light. and last few months ago when my brothers friend was checking out my engine bay he noticed my distributor was all the way to firewall and he adjusted it for me and he ripped the canister out. im not sure if its called canister but its mounted on lower and passenger area firewall theres 2 vacuum hose to it, one goes to top of throttlebody. and told me to put longer vacuum hose for map, everything else looks fine to him but he didnt drive it long enough to notice the hesitation.
since the problem still occurs with the o2 disconnected, i agree, checkig timing would be a good next step.
also, a dynamic fuel pressure/flow test
FYI some will advance the distributor like that to get a little extra power… shouldn’t make the car run worse… unless of course mechanical timing is off
ye thats the evap canister. one of those hoses should have gone to the intake manifold. what did he do with that hose/connection at the manifold?
and when he turned the distributor, did he use a timing light? or jump the service connector at all?
oh too far advanced will absolutely make it run worse and cause these symptoms of no power at certain rpm. it’s called spark knock
nope he didnt jump the connector, that is on passenger kick panel correct? he did the timing by ear! he took the evaporate canister out so i put it in my shed lol i dont know what he did, he was pretty fast. lol
EDIT: when i did the timing with light and connector jumped and set my timing light at 10 degrees and crank pulley was marked on red dot all i can remember but distributor didnt look right the distributor was lean all the way to firewall i guess i didnt do it right or something.
agreed there. and so I am sure of what I am saying here… if the car is set correctly at mechanical timing can’t you advance by 2 degrees safely? I thought I read that somewhere? had my teg set that way with that distributor that crapped out awhile back.
TBH, diagnosing problems over the internet is seldom effective. diagnosing one problem over top of multiple other problems would be even more difficult
you can’t time these cars by ear… they have to do what is called an Idle relearn which is done by jumping the connector to set proper mechanical timing, (so the ECU doesn’t compensate) after mechanical timing is set then you remove the jumper and start the car and allow it to run for 10-20 minutes so the ECU can learn
do yourself a favor and have someone who knows what they’re doing look at your car. he is going to cause more problems guaranteed.
without jumping the service connector, you cannot enter base timing mode and the ecm will just counter the adjustment made. in the long run, it will confuse the hell out of the ecm.
here’s what you do:
run the vehicle to operating temp. jump the service connector to enter base timing mode. point the timing light through the marks on the cover. crack distributor bolts and turn distributor as necessary to make the light meet 16*btdc. that’s the center mark of the lone 3 marks on the crank pulley. if that’s what you did the first time and the distributor was maxed out, there is a problem. a tooth must have jumped
i’m serious. don’t let that guy mess with it anymore.
have to correct you on that, that’s actually for the idle adjustment. and you don’t need to jump the service connector. you disconnect the iacv. that gets you into base idle. same idea though. you’re just making an adjustment that you don’t want the ecm to counter
gotcha 