if i ran eagle h-beam rods and lower compression pistons in a b20z block would i be alright with out sleeveing on 12 pounds of boost? or would i need to do more to make it reliable?
It may be ok. But the real question is “how long will it last?” A reliable boosted motor has many factors that make it reliable. From changing pistons, rods, bearings, headstuds, leakdown testing, and other things. The turbo also plays a big part because there are many different sized turbos, and different sizes will yield different results at that boost level. The tune is probably the most important though. My advice to you is to keep searching through boosted b20 build threads to determine what size turbo to run , compression ratio, and maybe if you search enough then you can get a general idea of a safe boost level to run.
i was plannin on doing all bearings with ARP head studs and tune and all that i have a t3/t4 50 trim turbo right now i just need a manifold and some other little things for it to be ready to go on i have been goin throu threads the only one i can really find is minis build she is running stock internals on 12 pounds at 380 whp and 300 tourqe and it seems to be holdin idk im goin to keep lookin haha thanks for your help if you have any more info i would be glad to hear it.
I’m just going to quote a VERY reputable tuner/builder/race car driver who is local to me, he posted this on our local forum.
Cortney Green aka runsnines
Notice in the first picture? The LS motor has individual sleeves, and the B20 cylinders arent separated the same. Its not a matter of rod/main/head bolts going out, or a bad tune… Its a weakness in those sleeves. Either re-sleeve the block, or if you’re stuck on boosting a stock-sleeve’d block, sell the B20 and buy an LS. Thats my honest 2cents.
wow that helps alot thaks i have a ls now but i have been looking and they just dont make much power at all on boost at 12 pounds im only seein 260 270 whp and i was wantin more but not running more boost then 12, and vtec engines are just to expensive in my oppenion hmmm help me decide here people haha thanks
Either a stock LS block, or a LS/B20 motor sleeved to the stock 81mm bore. Or 84-86MM if you want to built a BEAST.
Building motor is not ‘cheap’ by any means. If you’re wanting a motor that will perform how you want it, yet be reliable and last more than 5k miles, do it properly. You say ‘only’ 270whp, that is actually quite a lot of power and its probably faster than you think.
Besides, 270 RELIABLE-whp > 300 UNRELIABLE-whp.
I really would not boost on a stock B20, regardless of what PSI. Its not worth ruining all of those new/machined parts on a hope that the motor olds.
hmmm good points so a bored ls would be stronger then a b20?
[QUOTE=unified112;2188439]Either a stock LS block, or a LS/B20 motor sleeved to the stock 81mm bore. Or 84-86MM if you want to built a BEAST.
[/QUOTE]
Cant get more clear than that.
Boost a stock LS, or if you want the extra ‘power’ from having a 2.0L motor, sleeve the LS (Or b20 block) and bore it to whatever you desire. JUST DONT BOOST A STOCK B20.
aight sounds great thats the answer i wanted thanks, do you know how much gettin a block sleeved is i havent really looked into it
I think a set of sleeves is anywhere from $500 to $700. Installation is a few hundred as well. Email/Call GoldenEagle or Darton for quotes.
If you’re going to run a smaller amount of boost, 8-12psi, a stock LS block would more than likely be fine. But if you DO sleeve, then you can boost much higher and have that extra assurance in knowing your cylinders can take the abuse.
cool so do you order them and get a machine shop to put them in or ship off your block?
Either way. Whichever you prefer. But when you buy sleeves, they need to be bored out, even when staying with a factory 81mm bore. Some people complain about having to spend money to bore out the cylinders when staying the OEM 81mm… But this is how you know for sure that the cylinders match the piston diameter, etc. Figured I’d give you a heads up so you know what to expect.
o okay thanks for givin me all this info this will be my first bult honda so im still learnin but i have done a lot of research haha
I went with Golden Eagle for pricing and assurance that everything was done right. I wanna say they still have the special going on right now for $751 for sleeves installed and final bore and hone was $125 more. in your case I think this is overkill. with a good tune and maybe some pistons you’ll be ok at 12psi on that turbo. to be honest with you, I had a turbonetics t3/t4 57 trim running 12psi for 2 years no problems on my stock ls and no worries. I sleeved it to run more boost (27-28psi). now thats my problem now is my walbro doesnt handle what the engine can now. so in other words sleeving isnt the end all, it continues to go and go and go forever…
heres some good reads I found to help me:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=183
^
You’re right, 12psi isn’t a lot of boost… but on a stock B20 it is more than the motor can handle. So as I said, if keeping a stock block, then LS is the way to go. If sleeving, then it doesn’t really matter if LS or b20 because once its sleeved they’re the same thing heh.
I’m only going to speak from my own experience. I have a b20z running on 12 pounds for about 2 months now. Never had a problem and it runs beautifully. The block is completely stock. I only have some head work done on it otherwise. I haven’t been able to track it yet since the season is over so I don’t know how the reliablity on it is on the track. We’ll see come march!
You definitely have one-up on me as far as having personal experience with it… but 2 months isn’t really a test of reliability. Id be very interested to see how it does when being pushed hard at the track, but i’d be more interested to see a stock B20-T last 10k+ miles.
There are always exceptions to any rule… but I’ve heard way too many bad things about stock B20 sleeves with boost. And the same tuner who I quoted above, has been able to extract 400whp on a stock B16-t… if he can do that reliably, but discourage running a stock B20, I put my faith in him knowing what is smart and what is a waste of money.
^Well Put^
i think i might stick with the ls and just put more boost down the road, and thank you all for your info it helps alot and mini keep me updated on how it holds up im lovin the car.
Yea, thats probably why a lot of people stray away from this motor. It is a cheap motor and produces good torque though. Thanks Mr. Dalover (I am too! haha) I def will. We’ll see how it holds up in a few months. If I get my clutch in time and I am able to make this open lap day next week. I’ll let you know about that too! 
I do de-tune it when I’m at the track though.