Im getting pretty serious battery drain. its gotten worse over the last month, batery checks in fine (since last time it was tested) the alternator is charging the battery (Thank goodness for command start with cold weather mode). but this is getting quite annoying =(…
so, I want to figure the problem out properlly, I understand how to use a 12v light to test if there is significant enough draw to light it. but I want to use my multimeter to get numbers to see whats going on :(.
Im using a equus 4320
and have access to other meters if necessary!
What setting would I put my meter on in order to test how much draw there is? and what are acceptable numbers to be having if there is no draw?
I’m at work right now, in a couple hours I will be heading home to try to fix this problem :(… but I need to know how to do it lol…
The test light will tell you, if the draw is high enough to turn on the test light at all, the draw is too high.
If you want to use the meter, set meter to DC 10A, to start, don.t forget to move red probe to DC 10A socket.
Disconnect a batt. cable and connect one of the probes to the batt. post and the other to the batt. cable, [just like you would with the test light]. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2091571]The test light will tell you, if the draw is high enough to turn on the test light at all, the draw is too high.
If you want to use the meter, set meter to DC 10A, to start, don.t forget to move red probe to DC 10A socket.
Disconnect a batt. cable and connect one of the probes to the batt. post and the other to the batt. cable, [just like you would with the test light]. 94[/QUOTE]
alright, awesome, Lets pray that I dont have more than 10A draw otherwise there goes my meter lol… Im thinking if my crappy cdn tire meter has this, I’ll use that for this test (Its in my toolbag which my coworker has in the work van, hopefully he’s back before I go home :D)
Do you happen to know what draw would be an acceptable draw number? around 35ma?
Tested, when I put the 12v light tester in series with my positive post and cable, nothing happenes - multimeter shows 000… When I put the tester in series with the negative post and cable the light goes on faintly but enough to see… The multimeter shows .51… When I pull the battery 80a fuse it goes away, or when I take the battery from the terminal for the fuse box it also goes away…
My battery post terminal (negative) was broken replaced that and cleaned the ground point… Still the same readings… Do you think the negative terminal was the problem? I’ll find out in the morning lol…
The problem is not the batt. terminal, broken or otherwise.
.51, (510mA) is to high, as is indicated by the test light turning on, you have a parasitic draw, it should be no more then 25mA - 50mA.
Leave test light connected, start pulling fuses in the under dash fuse box, one at a time, checking the test light each time a fuse is pulled, when test light goes out you have found the circuit with the draw, replace fuse, [test light will come back on] unplug any component on the circuit until light goes out.
If you have “automatic” seat belts, unplug the seat belt module first, it is a common problem. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2091825]The problem is not the batt. terminal, broken or otherwise.
.51, (510mA) is to high, as is indicated by the test light turning on, you have a parasitic draw, it should be no more then 25mA - 50mA.
Leave test light connected, start pulling fuses in the under dash fuse box, one at a time, checking the test light each time a fuse is pulled, when test light goes out you have found the circuit with the draw, replace fuse, [test light will come back on] unplug any component on the circuit until light goes out.
If you have “automatic” seat belts, unplug the seat belt module first, it is a common problem. 94[/QUOTE]
I did that the same time as I was posting this, I didn’t notice I didn’t post that, but I pulled every single fuse I have in my car, and it didn’t turn off :S
any advice on finding it? :S, I took off my alternator connection as well as the starter connection… still didn’t turn off :S…
Do you have any aftermarket electronics wired into the cars electrical system?
Yes, I have a remote starter, which is working correctlly up to spec, Im actually having it on cold weather inorder for the alternator to keep my battery charged.
I also have door poppers in my car, I had a short on my passenger side door so i took that out
I have an amp, I took that off to see if it was the problem, the light was still on.
I have a aftermarket deck as well.
What year is your G2 and what trim level?
91, GS, DA9
Is this a CDM Integra or USDM/JDM Integra?
CDM
Any mods?
I did a auto to 5sp recentlly, didn’t have this problem before the swap!
Have you pulled the fuses for the remote start yet?
The fuses for the remote start are after the main fuse without any other stock fuses between them and the main fuse.
When you switched to the 5 speed, what did you do with the "Automatic Gear Position Switch, how did you rewire for the back-up lights and the park/neutral safety switch? 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2092178]Have you pulled the fuses for the remote start yet?
[/quote]
I disconnected the power for it since the fuse is on the module its self.
The fuses for the remote start are after the main fuse without any other stock fuses between them and the main fuse.
When you switched to the 5 speed, what did you do with the "Automatic Gear Position Switch, how did you rewire for the back-up lights and the park/neutral safety switch? 94
I didn’t wire the back up lights, didn’t have time, for the time being I have no reverse lights.
I soldered the 2 fat black and white wires together as I was told to do for the gear position switch, as far I know thats all I had to do in order to get the car to start. I also ran a wire from my clutch switch to the pink wire in the same spot in order to get my cruise to work, and added a ground.
During the swap I had to pretty much remove my dash to get over the heating vents, but as far as I know everything went in well… my Glove box light doesn’t work, not sure if this was before or just after the swap, I never noticed it, but when I took out that fuse the light remained :S
I’m 98 percent sure that your automatic seat belt system are one of your problems to blame on your parasitic draw on the battery. .51 is high. I have a .39 on my test. I traced it to the automatic seat belt module located on the passenger kick panel near the speaker grill cover.
My quick fix was to disable the seat belts by unplugging the module. the test draw went from a .39 to a .04 Battery doesnt drain nomore.
I even replaced the module with several good ones with the meter test still giving high readings. Ruling out the module, now I’m positive it has to do with the seat belt wiring. A damaged wire or a switch stuck.
I don’t have time to work on this. Might get rid of this car.
Try this test out by disconnecting the plugs from the module and see what readings you get. Let us know.
[QUOTE=91akira;2092215]I’m 98 percent sure that your automatic seat belt system are one of your problems to blame on your parasitic draw on the battery. .51 is high. I have a .39 on my test. I traced it to the automatic seat belt module located on the passenger kick panel near the speaker grill cover.
My quick fix was to disable the seat belts by unplugging the module. the test draw went from a .39 to a .04 Battery doesnt drain nomore.
I even replaced the module with several good ones with the meter test still giving high readings. Ruling out the module, now I’m positive it has to do with the seat belt wiring. A damaged wire or a switch stuck.
I don’t have time to work on this. Might get rid of this car.
Try this test out by disconnecting the plugs from the module and see what readings you get. Let us know.[/QUOTE]
All you can do is remove fuses until light goes out, it must be on a circuit after the main fuse, is there anything else aftermarket wired into power that would not be off an existing/OEM fused circuit.
You did pull fuses other then the main fuse in the engine bay fuse box, correct? 94
I finally found which pin I had to pull to lose the light/draw…
Problem is, I have no idea what it controls, probably due to it being a 22pin outlet… If someone has information about this, please insert your great information here!
Thats attached to the kick panel fusebox… I didn’t have time to trace out each wire, but I did find which pins are grounded.
Grounded pins are #6 its a pink and silver wire #7 looked like a red wire #8 white and yellow wire #11 blue with red dot wire #12 green with red stripe wire #13 was green, a little larger than the rest #17 teal wire
— I didn’t take a front pic of what it looked like but heres a shitty schematic lookalike
123 4567 8910
22,21,22,23
Etc on that, Im sure you get the idea.
I’ll try to grab more tomorrow but for now Im stuck with it if anyone has a drawing or information on where these lead to that would be awesome!
So after countless hours I found it, I started by pulling random plugs that were affected by that 24pin plug, pulled 704(dash harness) so tht narrowed things down, I then proceeded to pull my dash apart, I had the entire dash apart pulling and wiggling and pushing etc… Nothing worked! Grr… So… I go behind my radio consol and randomlly unpluged a connector… Viola! Turns out it was my interlock moduel… I clearly don’t need that anymore since I have a 5sp now!
With that unpluged I put my car back together and pray it starts… It does! Yay! Only crappy thing is, tht controls
some of the cruise control I suppose, so if I wanna go on a trip I gotta plug that it and unplug when I’m done with the cruise :(… Oh well no more battery drain!
[QUOTE=delorean;2093657]So after countless hours I found it, I started by pulling random plugs that were affected by that 24pin plug, pulled 704(dash harness) so tht narrowed things down, I then proceeded to pull my dash apart, I had the entire dash apart pulling and wiggling and pushing etc… Nothing worked! Grr… So… I go behind my radio consol and randomlly unpluged a connector… Viola! Turns out it was my interlock moduel… I clearly don’t need that anymore since I have a 5sp now!
With that unpluged I put my car back together and pray it starts… It does! Yay! Only crappy thing is, tht controls
some of the cruise control I suppose, so if I wanna go on a trip I gotta plug that it and unplug when I’m done with the cruise :(… Oh well no more battery drain![/QUOTE]
Look at the bright side, you have auto knowledge and that just saved you many hours of tech’s trying to figure it out.
yeah I know haha… everywhere I went to said 80+ a hour, I was like eff that I’ll spend hours tearing my dash apart lol, oh well onto the next problem, friggen DA’s
