Battery draining because of short circuit???

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
1

Normally,
When we just turn the key from ON position to START position,
We will listen “che che che”,
The engine will start…
But,
I so difficult to start my car when i just parking my car more than 12 hour,
Battery voltage also just show below 12V only.
When i turn the key from ON position to START position,
Didn’t have any “che che che”…
Even “tak” also didn’t have…
Voltage level also drop to around 10V,
All dashboard light also be come darkness,
So,
Must nonstop click the engine and acel the fuel pedal to start…
Then,
The voltage will charge back to around 14V(i think alternator should be OK)…

I don’t know is what problem…
So i try research online about battery checking,alternator checking and short circuit,
What i get is battery draining…
I also follow step by step to find out the problem…
1st,I loose the (-) connection on battery,
Turn the test meter to 20mA and test like below picture,

But nothing result can get…
Then,
Turn the test meter to 200k(Ohm) and test like below picture,

Also nothing can read…

Last at here,
I really no more idea how to test it and solve this problem…
May you help me?
Thanks…

PS:I didn’t start engine to using test meter…It’s CORRECT???

2

You are not using the multimeter properly to test for draw, [2nd picture] the meter needs to be set to DC amps and the red probe needs to be plugged into the terminal above the one it is in, the other ends of the red and black probes are correct.

If you have an ordinary 12V test light use it instead, connect it the same way as your meter, [in series].

If the test light lights up, even a little there is too much draw, [something is on or there is a “minor” short].

To find the circuit that is drawing power, disconnect, [pull fuse] of any wire you have connected to the batt. cable pos.(+) terminal, if the test light goes out the draw is on one of the wires connected to the batt. terminal, if the light does not go out start pulling the fuses, one by one, out of the fuse boxes, engine bay and under dash.

When the light goes out the circuit that that fuse is on is where the draw is.
If you use the meter the reading will drop to .000 mA, or very close,[ something like .004 mA.]

PS:I didn’t start engine to using test meter…It’s CORRECT???

For the “draw test” that is correct. 94

3

[QUOTE=fcm;2014348]You are not using the multimeter properly to test for draw, [2nd picture] the meter needs to be set to DC amps and the red probe needs to be plugged into the terminal above the one it is in, the other ends of the red and black probes are correct.

If you have an ordinary 12V test light use it instead, connect it the same way as your meter, [in series].

If the test light lights up, even a little there is too much draw, [something is on or there is a “minor” short].

To find the circuit that is drawing power, disconnect, [pull fuse] of any wire you have connected to the batt. cable pos.(+) terminal, if the test light goes out the draw is on one of the wires connected to the batt. terminal, if the light does not go out start pulling the fuses, one by one, out of the fuse boxes, engine bay and under dash.

When the light goes out the circuit that that fuse is on is where the draw is.
If you use the meter the reading will drop to .000 mA, or very close,[ something like .004 mA.]

For the “draw test” that is correct. 94[/QUOTE]

So sorry,
That is my mistake…
I not sure my multimeter it’s can test with DC amp or AC amp…
New picture show below;


Multimeter turn to 10A,the reading is 0.68…After a moment,change to 0.45…

Another picture,

Multimeter turn to 20mA,the reading is 0.47…

I hold my test show like above and take time as long 15 minute,
The reading just show between 0.45 - 0.47…
So,
Any problem can find out from above TEST???

Thanks

4

It is normal for the draw to be higher, [0.68] when the meter is first connected, the capacitors in the cars electronics are charging up and that will draw a little current.

The actual “parasitic” draw is 0.45-0.47, almost a 1/2 amp draw, that is way too high, it should be .05 or less.

You will need to start pulling fuses, one by one, until you see the meter drop to .05 or less. 94

5

[QUOTE=fcm;2014506]It is normal for the draw to be higher, [0.68] when the meter is first connected, the capacitors in the cars electronics are charging up and that will draw a little current.

The actual “parasitic” draw is 0.45-0.47, almost a 1/2 amp draw, that is way too high, it should be .05 or less.

You will need to start pulling fuses, one by one, until you see the meter drop to .05 or less. 94[/QUOTE]
I haven’t try to pulling fuse one by one…
Before this,
I test with other 3 different type of car,
All the draw is around 0.45 - 0.49,

Any IDEA?

PS:How to know the battery condition???What i mean is “hold charge”…

Thanks

6

I would check your meter, 0.45-0.47 is too high.
You can take the car to any car batt. or alt. shop and have them do a load and gravity check on the charging system and batt.
This is free at most places and takes only a few min. 94

7

New update…

Main fuse(70A) suddenlly loose contact…
After i change the new main fuse(70A),
Another new test…

O.17A without closing the door(previous testing also din’t close the door>.<)…

0.04A with closing the door(alarm functioning)
I think,
0.04A should be NORMAL,
If the battery still draining fast,
That mean is bettery problem???

Thanks

8

Yes it does mean a batt. problem.94

9

New update ON 17/05/2009

Battery changed,
But still serious draining…
So,
Pull out the fuse one by one is my only way to check…


But,
My fuse cover is write down japanese word,
Really no idea what is that…
So,
Somebody have english version can share to me??

Thanks

10

i want that fuse box cover ill trade you english one for that one

11

i can tell you what it says but by that time sure some one will post a oic if not email me an ill write it up for you greazemunkey73@yahoo.com

12

[QUOTE=blabong33;2026906]New update ON 17/05/2009

Battery changed,
But still serious draining…

Thanks[/QUOTE]

I have the same issue but I found where the circuit is drawing power in my car. I disconnected that source and got the same test reading of .04 which is good. Car started even if car sits for a week. I had a 0.39 draw before.

I’m confused why your still drawing power even with a 0.04 reading and that you changed your battery.

By the way, what exactly did you do to the 70a main fuse? How did you find out that was bad? Was it corroded or just lose? Did you replace it with a brand new one?

13

[QUOTE=91akira;2028034]I have the same issue but I found where the circuit is drawing power in my car. I disconnected that source and got the same test reading of .04 which is good. Car started even if car sits for a week. I had a 0.39 draw before.

I’m confused why your still drawing power even with a 0.04 reading and that you changed your battery.

By the way, what exactly did you do to the 70a main fuse? How did you find out that was bad? Was it corroded or just lose? Did you replace it with a brand new one?[/QUOTE]

Below is my only reason to know the drawing even just with 0.04A…

Another testing,
Early morning 10am i check the voltage is 12.48V,
Then i check again the voltage on night time 10pm,
Result is 12.23V…
Then i leave it untill the next morning 10am and check again the voltage,
Just have 11.89V only…
Still leave it,
Final check on 10pm,
Just left 11.43V only,
Then i need to on my engine to charge back the voltage…

Normally when i on my engine every morning with the voltage above 12V,
The engine crank sound just “ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE”,
Then my engine can start already…
After the 1st time on,
Even i drive the car go to shopping or go to work and parking a whole day,
When i start again the car,
Just “ZE ZE ZE”,
Then should be on already…
But,
If i just leave the car whole day and din’t start it,
The second day morning time also just leave it,
Untill the second day night time just try to start the car,
I need to crank more longer,
“ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE”,
“ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE”,
Then the engine can be start…
If let say i leave my car more than 2 day,
And i crank on 3rd day morning,
NO SOUND at all…
I need to crank and re crank untill the crank sound or starter sound come out,
Then i just have chance to ON the engine…
Some more,
Even i successful on the engine,
But the engine similiar like no fuel can go through the engine…
Example:Normally when we crank the key with the sound “ZE ZE ZE”,
The RPM will direct rev to around 2K and engine started…
RIGHT???
But,
When i successful start my engine,
The RPM will stun a while,
Then RPM rev to around 2K and engine started,
This case happen when i din’t start my car more than 1 day…
Normally people will suspert my fuel pump problem…
But,
If i take out the battery cable connection,
Even i park my car more than 1 week,
I aslo can on my engine with nothing problem…
Just need to crank longer a bit only(“ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE ZE”),
RPM also can directly rev to 2K and engine started(NO STUN)…
All is my experience…

Then,
About 70A main fuse loose contact…
I ask a favor form workshop technical to help me clean all the dirt on engine bay,
After the cleaning and rinse with water and blow to dry,
I park my car and continue chating with workshop technical…
When i plan to leave that time,
I cant start my engine,
Alarm system also shut down…
Then i find out is 70A main fuse wire already split to two,
Not corroded…
So i just change a new main fuse and check again the drawing,
So suprise because the reading drop to 0.04A,
But the problem still remain…

PS:My language not very well,hope you’s guy can understand it…

14

i once had a problem with my car dying after a day or so

it ended up being the seat belt retractor i guess it was not unlocking or something…and this happened twice
first it was the passenger side then the driver side about 1 year later

try unplugging the seat belt retractor (in the middle next to the e-brake)
and redo the draw test

hope this helps …

15

HEY FINALLY SOMEONE THAT HAS THE SAME SITUATION. Your the only guy here that posted a similiar or exactly the same issue I have.

I have some news for you bro. I was certain it was those retractors. I replaced mine with two from the junkyard from two other DAs and they still gave a current draw. I was stumped and I gave up.

My bandaid fix was to unplug the control unit. Draw no more.

PLEASE tell me what you did. Did you replace those retractors?

16

[QUOTE=91tegraRS;2033586]

try unplugging the seat belt retractor (in the middle next to the e-brake)
and redo the draw test

hope this helps …[/QUOTE]

If you unplug those connectors, then the control unit will constantly beep. To remove the draw completely, unplug the control unit.

I’m aiming towards the door latch switch. It can be corroded or something. (not the black switch. but on the end of the door with the three screws on it)

17

FCM - come on guy! I know you know this stuff. Post your expertise.

18

Sorry, I have no info on the G2 auto seat belts, but my guess is it is the control unit and not the retractors themselves.
I have checked with a few friends who have the auto seat belts to bring the car by so I can diagnose the problem to get some insight to what the problem/cause is, but so far no one is having a problem.

Not that I would wish a problem on a friends, or anybodies car, I would like to solve this problem. 94

19

[QUOTE=fcm;2034059]Sorry, I have no info on the G2 auto seat belts, but my guess is it is the control unit and not the retractors themselves.
I have checked with a few friends who have the auto seat belts to bring the car by so I can diagnose the problem to get some insight to what the problem/cause is, but so far no one is having a problem.

Not that I would wish a problem on a friends, or anybodies car, I would like to solve this problem. 94[/QUOTE]

I replaced the control unit 4 times. 3 from junkyards and 1 from a friends known working unit. All were giving me the excess draw of the same number which is 0.39a. I test my friends unit before I pulled out. His was a 0.02 to 0.03a. When I placed his in my car, my draw went to a 0.39a.

So I ruled the unit out.

Its something to do with those pesky retractors. Near e-brake. The post ubove me has a similiar issue. When I disconnected the connectors, from just one of them (passenger only) the draw went down 0.22. Plugged the pass back then unplugged the drivers. The draw went to the same number-0.22a. ?!! Okay so I thought… Its the retractors giving me the problem. Went to the local yards. Swapped it out- test again- draw still read 0.39!!! I returned to the yards, to get another retractor from another DA. I did that like about 3 times from other DAs. ALL were giving me a reading of 0.39a!!!

Thats where I’m stumped and almost to the point I’m giving up. FCM I apprieciate you trying to help me out and I know your probably confused like I am. This sure is a tuff one to figure out.

But what do you think of the door latch switch? (not the black toggle thing. The one thats on the door itself. Three big screws hold it on.) I’m aiming towards that. I"m thinking It has something to do with the belt retractors.

Thanks.

P.S. I have my own thread in here titled “current draw from the automatic control unit”. I have the factory diagram in there.

20

Reply to everyone…

My teg is JDM version,
Don’t have any auto seat belt function…

On last monday,
I changed new alarm system,
Battery draw reading 0.04A,
Test pen still light on but din’t bright as 12V…
Voltage testing as below…
1st day,
12.56V(10AM)
12.51V(10PM)
2nd day,
12.45V(10AM)
12.43V(10PM)

My testing just only 2 day because need to use car,
My next test will be arrange soon on this few day…

Any suggestion??
Thanks a lot…