Nice car! Okay since your a technician maybe you could help me a bit. My da has gotten a brand spanking new alternator, new optima battery, new 4 gauge ground wire and power wire from the alternator to the battery and it’s still draining the battery dead over the weekend. I tested the current draw which has something to do with the pass-ass(that’s what it’s called or what I think it says under the hood) fuse because when I pull it out the light meter dimmed dramatically. I drove the car all day until the battery is sufficiently charged and pull the fuse out over the weekend. On monday morning I go out ready to go to school and the cluster lights are barely on. I’m completely stumped because the car is fine as long as I don’t leave it sitting over the weekend. What do you think this problem could be?
Try making sure all of your grounds have good connections…if you have a multimeter, I suggest that you put it to 25Vac, and disconnect the positive on the battery and test the positive wire only by putting the red post on the wire, and putting the black post on the negative terminal on the battery, {WHILE THE CAR IS OFF} see what the voltage reads, if there is no reading, then there shouldn’t be a current draw, meaning any constant powered wires in the car shouldn’t be grounding out…
let me know
Chris
[QUOTE=91hybridakira;1947457]Try making sure all of your grounds have good connections…if you have a multimeter, I suggest that you put it to 25Vac, and disconnect the positive on the battery and test the positive wire only by putting the red post on the wire, and putting the black post on the negative terminal on the battery, {WHILE THE CAR IS OFF} see what the voltage reads, if there is no reading, then there shouldn’t be a current draw, meaning any constant powered wires in the car shouldn’t be grounding out…
let me know
Chris[/QUOTE]
OK i’ll try this. I did my first test on the negative terminal with the fuse pull method but will try your method also tomorrow. Umm is there a reason why you preferred 24Vac instead of 24Vdc? Thanks btw!
Looking for replacement parts are hard for old cars like ours. It looks like you got a really good decent one though!
[QUOTE=jungle;1947490]OK i’ll try this. I did my first test on the negative terminal with the fuse pull method but will try your method also tomorrow. Umm is there a reason why you preferred 24Vac instead of 24Vdc? Thanks btw!
Looking for replacement parts are hard for old cars like ours. It looks like you got a really good decent one though![/QUOTE]
Im sorry yes use DC…let me know, if something is wrong ill continue to help you out as long as you need it…
I’m going to try this after I get my problem solved lol.
ok, today I tried doing what you said and the multi meter read 1v then decreased to zero. My guess is that there is a capacitor somewhere that is giving off this voltage. I’m not sure exactly what that means but I think you do. Hey thanks for all your help by the way.
One question, Do you think my Red Optima could be faulty? I bought it this summer and the alternator went faulty on me and was partially running on the battery some of the time.
I would get that battery checked out, go to an autozone, they will check it for free…I had a red top optima in my accord and I had problems with it…It would sometimes act dead, then as soon as I hook up a charger to it for one second the battery would be fine…it would also cause a lot of electrical problems in my accord as well…so yeah have that checked out…
I checked it again today and this time with the negative terminal off. I touched the two leads to the terminal(red to battery and black to cable) and read a 11.2V drain. I now believe that it may not be the battery but a major drain in the system.
Okay does your car have a stereo system?? also, do you have any switches installed in the car, battery relocated?? There is a short somewhere, if the car draws current when it is off (I’m sure you knew that already)…
I have a radio but no special switch installed. When I disconnect the negative terminal I hear a relay switching off. Do you think I should try to trace what that relay is for? Pluse I pulled off some fuses and the I found the voltage to drop when I pulled the passive motor left fuse. Do you think that this could be faulty?
If you can hear a relay “click” off when you disconnect the batt. you will need to find the relay and check the circuit to find out why it is staying on.
FYI to test for “draw” on your batt. set meter to DC amps, [not volts] current is measured in amps not volts.
Set meter, make sure dome light, and anything else in car, is off disconnect batt., [either cable] and place meter in series, [one probe on the cable and one probe on the batt. post, the meter will give you the current draw, one by one pull the fuses until you see the draw drop.
You can find the relays circuit by pulling fuses one by one until you hear the relay “click” off.
BTW with either the above, after pulling a fuse and seeing no change in the draw or hearing relay “click” off, reinstall the fuse and move to the next fuse.:think:94
If you can hear a relay “click” off when you disconnect the batt. you will need to find the relay and check the circuit to find out why it is staying on.
FYI to test for “draw” on your batt. set meter to DC amps, [not volts] current is measured in amps not volts.
Set meter, make sure dome light, and anything else in car, is off, disconnect batt., [either cable] and place meter in series, [one probe on the cable and one probe on the batt. post] the meter will give you the current draw, one by one pull the fuses until you see the draw drop.
You can find the relays circuit by pulling fuses one by one until you hear the relay “click” off, meter not needed and leave batt. connected.
BTW with either the above, after pulling a fuse and seeing no change in the draw or hearing relay “click” off, reinstall the fuse and move to the next fuse.:think:94
I’ll try that. Ummm do you know what the passive motor left fuse is for. It is the number 8 fuse under the hood?
Do you think it could be that Optimas are not suitable batteries for the integra? I read through a whole thread similliar to my situation and in all three of our cars, we are using red top optimas.
There is no #8 fuse in the engine bay fuse box, the #8 fuse is in the under dash fuse box and would be for right rear power window.
There should be no problem using an Optima batt. in your G2, unless there is something wrong with it.:stare:94
ok, fcm. I checked and the relay that was clicking was the radiator relay. Now, I’m not sure if it’s faulty, a short somewhere or something of the sort until I get a confirmation from someone who isn’t having this same problem. What you you think I should do?
Do you mean the radiator fan relay, just in front of the batt.?
Is the rad fan on?:stare: 94
[QUOTE=fcm;1949836]Do you mean the radiator fan relay, just in front of the batt.?
Is the rad fan on?:stare: 94[/QUOTE]
yes, the relay next to the battery. no, the fan is not on either but when i unplug the green set of plugs the relay clicks again.
Next to the batt,???
The rad fan relay is in front of the batt. mounted to the rad support next to the head light bulb access hole, it will have one 4pin plug, with a black ground lead, blue lead from “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch”, black/yellow lead from fuse 21 - 15A, [hot in run] in under dash fuse box and a yellow green to the rad fan.:tapfing:94
[QUOTE=fcm;1950193]Next to the batt,???
The rad fan relay is in front of the batt. mounted to the rad support next to the head light bulb access hole, it will have one 4pin plug, with a black ground lead, blue lead from “Engine Coolant Temperature Switch”, black/yellow lead from fuse 21 - 15A, [hot in run] in under dash fuse box and a yellow green to the rad fan.:tapfing:94[/QUOTE]
next to in front of lol yeah that’s the one i’m talking about. Hey, thanks man I really appreciate you helping me man. What do you think I should proceed e to next?
Well if the rad fan relay is staying on and the rad fan is not running you have more then one problem.
The rad fan, [rad fan relay] can be kept on even when ign. is turned off, the “Engine Oil Temperature Switch” will send a ground to the “Radiator Fan Control Module” which in turn controls the rad fan relay, [keeping it on even if ign. is off] but the rad fan should also be on.
You will need a multimeter to do some tests, do you have one or can you borrow one?
You could start by unplugging the “EOTS” to see if the rad fan relay stays on, if not replace the “EOTS”.
You can also check to see if rad fan works normally, turn ign. on and ground the yellow/green lead at the rad fan relay, rad fan should turn on.
94
the fan does not work abnormally. It works the way it should but i’ll try that fcm. Thanks