it gets readings from o2,ivac,and so on to know how much fuel to send.it also sends a diff. amount when the engine is cold too.what is you fuel pressure at idle?should be on a stock ls around 30 psi
about 30-33psi. I have a B&M gauge on my filter
I should be looking for a P74 for a 92 correct? I wanna try one and see what happens
this problem only happens when u hit the gas.? if u don’t jump the Timing belt again … swap on a TPS and new wires…
worse case… belt jumped, bent a valve …
[QUOTE=Slick92GS-R;1899790]this problem only happens when u hit the gas.? if u don’t jump the Timing belt again … swap on a TPS and new wires…
worse case… belt jumped, bent a valve …[/QUOTE]
thought about that…compression is dead on, on all 4 cylinders! (178). Wires/Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Coil/ICM and MSD box all less than 3k miles!
TPS is a possiblity? ECU? MAP Sensor? turns out it only jumped the 1st time, It hasnt jumped since the new belt was put in…
My only experience w/ a bad TPS was when mine went bad and I started throwing a code. Other than the code the car drove perfectly normally. But that’s not to say the TPS couldn’t go bad and cause your problems… Also, you can’t just swap on a TPS really quick. They are not removable from the throttle body, you have to replace the whole throttle body. (well, in reality you can drill the old one off and install one if you find a way to purchase a new TPS alone w/o a new TB)
Just because those parts are new doesn’t mean they should be ruled out. Sometimes you just happen to be unlucky enough to get that part which is bad right out of the box or fails soon after install. Plus all that aftermarket ignition stuff you have sorta scares me, there’s no benefit to those parts and you’re just adding something which probably isn’t of the same quality as OEM. Any chance you have all your old OEM ignition parts you could throw back on?
If you’re looking for a replacement ecu you want a PR4, just make sure it’s OBD1 and not OBD0.
well as far as the ignition goes, believe it or not the box was xmas gift from a a friend (BNIB) and I just put it away. In April my stock coil went out and another buddy had an extra one that he was gonna use to replace one that he thought was bad…so he never used it. When my coil went, I just picked up a cap and rotor, some wires and installed the system. I have noticed a better throttle repsonse & acceleration…not to mention MUCH better gas mileage…well, until this other issue began.
So I have narrowed it down to an electrical issue. I pulled the “BACK UP” fuse out of the fuse box up front (to reset any blind codes) and disconnected to the MAP sensor, and adjusted the Ignition timing to where it should be, ro close… Im gonna see what happens when I try and start it that way.
I am also gonna try and locate a known working ECU and see what happens there
Im confused now as to which ECU to look for. You say OBD1 PR4…it shows that for an Automatic??
http://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/honda-ecu-list-29129/
http://www.superhonda.com/tech/honda_ecu_codes.html
http://www.hondashowoff.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8832
None of the above lists are consistant
Update With Video Clip
Took forever to start but I was able to retard the timing for where is was. I dont have a timing light to set it to spec unfortunately, but it does run well on idle and at cruising speeds.
The problem you will notice occurs only on start up, and when the gas is suddenly pressed, either from a complete stop or cruising at a low rpm. It like the a/f mixure is off.
Keep in mind my plugs are showing signs of burning VERY lean. The plugs in the video have 0 miles on them!
here is one from inside the car…
Again, I’m fairly stumped at this point, not sure how much more help I can be w/ your specific problem. But in regard to your ecu question…
All 90-93 integra w/ a b18a came with a PR4. Doesn’t matter what year it was or what transmission it was.
HOWEVER. There are different versions of the “PR4” ecu.
90-91 is OBD0
92-93 is OBD1
And auto is different from manual. I’m unaware of how to tell an auto ecu apart from a manual ecu. You can search as I think someone once posted a breakdown of what exactly each set of numbers means in the sticker on the ecu.
colin you say that these motors are not interference motors? ive heard they are over on h-t.:shrug::shrug: i just did my timing belt and was worried about bending a valve.
da92 for your bogging problem, your sure its not a vacuum leak.?
I just did some more looking into it myself and there is some info that the engine is an interference engine, so I may stand corrected on this one. This is news to me 
I would however like to see some good legit evidence to back it up. I’ve broken two timing belts and know others who have as well… never a bent valve. But I’m definitely going to err on the side of safety and retract my previous statement.
[QUOTE=blackteg;1900204]colin you say that these motors are not interference motors? ive heard they are over on h-t.:shrug::shrug: i just did my timing belt and was worried about bending a valve.
da92 for your bogging problem, your sure its not a vacuum leak.?[/QUOTE]
No I am not sure but I have been unable to locate one at this point
[QUOTE=Colin;1900175]Again, I’m fairly stumped at this point, not sure how much more help I can be w/ your specific problem. But in regard to your ecu question…
All 90-93 integra w/ a b18a came with a PR4. Doesn’t matter what year it was or what transmission it was.
HOWEVER. There are different versions of the “PR4” ecu.
90-91 is OBD0
92-93 is OBD1
And auto is different from manual. I’m unaware of how to tell an auto ecu apart from a manual ecu. You can search as I think someone once posted a breakdown of what exactly each set of numbers means in the sticker on the ecu.[/QUOTE]
I did install a known working OBD1 PR4 into the car and there was absolutley NO difference. I drove the car 60 miles today (bogging all the way & no horsepower) and used nearly 1/2 tank of gas :shrug: cruising @ 50mph in 5th gear, I normally get about 28-33mpg with normal everyday driving.
I am completely stumped here. I need to find someone with an OBD1 reader and see if anything comes up. I dont have any CEL’s and when u jump the plug to get a flashing CEL…it doesnt blink. NO CODES either??
Here are some thoughts…some may sound stupid but anything at this point!!
Clogged Catalytic Converter? IACV? TPS? Headgasket? TB? TB Gasket? MAP Sensor? Engine Harness? Distributor? DO ANY OF THESE THINGS MAKE ANY SENSE???
your idling kind of high 1k, stock being 650-750. I’d say TPS, which would explain y it will idle, but when you add throttle it wants to run lean. which would cause the bogging.
thats why were here to hook each other up on any info lol:bowthank: jk jk. lol.
da92 i doubt it is a HG on the list. you would be eatin up coolant, and blowin white smoke.
our overhead cam honda engines are interference. if you have broken a timing belt and not bent a valve you should count your blessings. so did the op ever actually verify that it was at a true TDC? as in taking the crankpulley off and aligning the crankshaft gear mark with the oil pump mark??
also for the op to make any progress from this point he needs to get a helms and a volt meter. your next major task is checking all your sensors (ex: map, tps, ect, iat, etc.
also what have you messed around with to change your a/f ratio? if nothing then there is a hint where to start
I am normally around 750, I raised a bit with adjustment screw in order for it to stay on. At normal Idle speed, the car wanted to bog also.
[QUOTE=BBP-GS DA;1900344]our overhead cam honda engines are interference. if you have broken a timing belt and not bent a valve you should count your blessings. so did the op ever actually verify that it was at a true TDC? as in taking the crankpulley off and aligning the crankshaft gear mark with the oil pump mark??
also for the op to make any progress from this point he needs to get a helms and a volt meter. your next major task is checking all your sensors (ex: map, tps, ect, iat, etc.
also what have you messed around with to change your a/f ratio? if nothing then there is a hint where to start[/QUOTE]
Yes I was very lucky!
The car never ran with when the blet skipped. When my symptoms began, every morning the car would get harder and harder to start…taking longer daily. The last day…I cranked and cranked and thats when the belt skpipped, we then checked it, noticed it moved and since I dont play games with that kinda stuff I just replaced the belt and tensioner.
And yes, we have double, triple checked and the mechanical timing is right where it should be.
NOTHING had been done to alter the A/F ratio…
I dont know where to go from here…
:idea: Crank Sensor…:think:…the MSD box coulda fucked it up…make any sense?
Now i need to get a hold of a buddy with a workin OBD1 d-i-z-z-y to try!
:bump:
still not running…anymore suggestions??
did you try anoter tps maybe even the o2 but both of those should throw a cel
Moroso autocross on Sat 26 july from 4pm…