Lol, I know exactly what you’re saying. I kinda thought the same thing at first, but honestly…they tighten up really nice. As soon as i finished up the suspension, I immediately had an alignment and so far, everything has help up great. No slipping. I threw the guy a 20 spot and asked him to really take his time doing the alignment, you know…‘dude, don’t use any friggin’ Channel Locks on my brand new bolts." The guy had my car all day, it took him 3 times but he finally got everything dialed in real nice. No pulling or anything. I highly recommend these SPL’s. I’ll get some pics up asap.
This has been a great battery so far. It was a bit pricey especially since I paid retail ($160) at our local Batteries Plus…but so far, It’s been perfectly fine. I did find out through some research that in order to properly charge these things…you have to use a specific charger (I was lucky to actually have it), and it needs to be charged @ 8 AMP using the AGM setting. Mine is a Schumacher Electric Speed Charger. I tried charging it on the 12A/Standard setting which is normal for regular car batteries and almost blew the darn thing up. It was so hot, it literally melted one of the leads…glad I caught it in time. 
Well, today was a really productive day with my car. I got started on pulling the dash out right after church. I yanked out both seats, The center console, the cluster, and finally, the entire dashboard. It wasn’t quite as bad as I thought, I mean once you get everything else out of the way…the whole dash is only held in with literally 6 bolts total. The harness clips are a bear, especially the ones behind the dash for the clock and a few down near the climate control, but once you get the harness kinda unwound and hanging out on the drivers side, you’re golden.
A few tips: There are 2 bolts and 2 nuts on threaded studs that hold the steering wheel up…removing these allowed the whole steering wheel to lower enough so I didn’t damage my blinker and wiper handles during the actual removal of the dash. i’ll upload a few pics in a minute so everyone can see today’s progress.
Here are the Hard race pieces I picked up. We have a local Internet Distributor that works out of a small warehouse here. The guy Mike is cool though. He lets us local guys go in and buy stuff at the counter with cash. They have the most common stuff in stock but not a ton of 2nd Gen Integra stuff… I got lucky with these. $155 out the door. 
I was hoping to find a pic of the RTA with the new bushings installed but I can’t find it right now, sorry.
Here are a few pics of the rear suspension stuff as it sits today. It’s kinda hard for me to get a good shot because for some odd reason, my exhaust pipe hangs literally right in the way. I ended up going with a BWR rear camber kit, BWR rear LCA’s, and I upgraded the puny rear traction bar with a much more stout, 22mm Progress Bar. I put in an ASR rear sub-frame and I ended up using the ASR hardware and brackets instead of the Progress brackets. I did use the Progress Bar endlinks. Colin helped me a bit in this area and overall i’m pretty happy with the feel of it all. I also ordered a set of Whiteline locking brackets for good measure.
Here is a good pic of the 2 bars and the difference between them. Notice how the Progress piece has end links that connect in a different spot. I did notice that when i’m in 5th gear and going down the highway…I could hear a vibration metal on metal and it ended up being my exhaust pipe hitting the top of the end-link. It was an easy fix but I will say that having the end-links where they are now is really less than ideal.
Here are a few more pics I have on my phone:
Here is one with things just kinda mocked up. I ended up using different mounting brackets once I got the ASR Sub-Frame.
Here is a pic I got off my computer from Password JDM that shows the ASR Sub-Frame and the much better brackets. These brackets are designed to mount right through the spare tire well. They also leave spots for you to put your Progress Bar. Here is how mine came out.
Here you can see the brackets from the ASR piece as they bolt to the inside of the spare wheel well.
I cannot seem to get a decent pic of the whole setup because my car is so low right now with the front up on jack stands and the stupid exhaust right in the way. When I get a chance, I’ll jack the back up and post a good picture of the whole thing installed. In the meantime…here is what I was able to accomplish today and a few pics of what Buford looks like right now:
This is the original b17a1 that will be retired soon. My buddy has my engine hoist right now so as soon as i’m able to get it back…i’ll be pulling this motor to redo the entire engine bay, delete the ABS components, fix my first ever wire tuck and clean things up a bit. Here is the dash I pulled out today:
Here is a shot from the inside as she looks today:
I’m stoked!!! I just got an email from WireWorx saying that starting tomorrow…we can pre-order the harness that will allow us to connect the s2k cluster into our 2nd Gen Integras!!! I’ve been waiting for this for close to a year. I have a sweet S2K AP2 cluster that I got from a Honda Heaven for xmas this year after almost 14 months on a waiting list. I have no idea until tomorrow how much it will cost, but if it makes things plug and play…it’ll be worth it. Perfect timing also, being that I just pulled the dash and cluster today!! I am unsure if I’ll still need the Modifry and or the Speed-O-Healer. I already have the VSS from a 94-01 Integra to make the speedometer function properly. Here are some of my xmas goodies including the cluster I begged the wife for. :rockon:
Here are some pics of the non-abs parts i’ve collected so whenever I get the motor out…I can finally do away with the obsolete and no longer working ABS.
Allright, so I was able to find a B20B fully running complete motor with 67k on it. My original plan was to build an All-Motor Monster because I already have a fully built Type R head (pr3). I did all kinds of research and 250 whp is what i’d be striving to achieve, this seemed a bit low for what i’m looking for. This prompted me to do a Fully Built boosted setup instead. I pulled the head off the motor and dis-assembled the block. I contacted Jon from Golden Eagle and promptly made the decision to send it off for sleeves. Here is a few shots of the motor when I picked it up and a few others of it all packaged up to send off to California. It cost $96 to ship btw. :shock:
Here it is with the head removed and the block all packed up just before I shipped her off. I also ordered a new set of Eagle Rods and a sweet new set of CP Pistons. The CR ended up coming out to 10.2:1 after all the engine math. I was gonna originally run it on 93 Octane but after hours of research and consulting with the tuner…we decided on going with E85. We have it readily available here so it shouldn’t be an issue.
In case anyone is interested, total cost for sleeving the block, at Golden Eagle, 84mm, Eagle Rods, CP pistons, labor, shipping, everything…$2340.00 - This included an $85 1 hour labor charge to Align Hone the main crank journals, and some new O-Ring groove that Golden Eagle does now to expand the water jacket so the channel gets better coolant flow. Golden Eagle puts some kind of Block Guard type thing as part of the way they sleeve, I’m guessing they’ve figured out how to eliminate the hot spots that have been a problem in the past. They said it would be 8 weeks for it to be finished…It arrived at the facility last Monday…That means it should be back by May sometime.
I ended up putting about 4 additional straps on the block to hold it down. notice the small pieces of PVC I cut and placed under the block to protect the oil pan studs during shipping. I know it’s probably overkill, but i’m real meticulous like that. I know I won’t get it back from GE the same way. Lol. I put 3/8" plywood on the top after stuffing the box with bubble wrap. It weighed 78 lbs!
I’m confused. A 90-91 wheel on a GS-R? Other than that looks like this thread is going in the right direction. What are the specs on the wheels?
Awesome build, we’re running very similar setups except Im running a lower comp ratio as I have no access to e-85. Keep up the good work.
Yeah, I had to replace the cheap removable ebay crap steering wheel the original owner had on there. I got this one off a guy I know with a 91 GS. Honestly, I didn’t even know there was a difference. Specs on wheels are 15X7 +20 - I’m not a fan of driving on stretched tires or driving so low that you have to snake the reflectors on the road.
Sweet. Thanks for the great info. You didn’t want channel lock gouges on your new parts? Haha. I hear you on that. Did you use the flat washer up top? I will need to take another look at mine as I might put them on this coming weekend. Thanks again for the info.
Your suspension set up is looking really nice. Keep the updates and the parts coming.
Well, I haven’t had a ton of time the last 2 days to do anything exciting with my Buford. I have a side job swapping a replacement motor into a neighbors 2002 Nissan Maxima. I have everything all done after 3 evenings of working with a buddy on it, we fire it up…it starts but its got a misfire. Probably just a bad coil or sensor somewhere. It’s dark so we’ll go at again tomorrow.
On another note, I did hear back from Wire-Worx regarding the S2K cluster conversion kit for the DA. Basically the response from them was exactly this: “We do not have a solution for that Chassis yet, but stay tuned…we’re probably working on one.”
…of all the canned responses, that’s the best one they could come up with? Geez. So now it looks like i’ll be ordering my Modifry and Universal Speed-o-Healer V4 tonight. :tsk:
