For the heater valve, just open it in the engine bay until you can fix the control, it is located just to the right of the fuel filter.
You can test your old motor without putting it in, just connect 12V+ to one of the terminals and a ground to the other, it doesn’t matter which, if you get it backwards the motor will run backwards, [if it’s working], you could also just plug it in without mounting it, either way, hang on to it, there is a fair amount of torque when it starts.:stare:94
So my resistor pack was messed up (like it’s broken into pecies), I replaced the resistor pack, and still no fan, so I checked my blower plug and it reads about 2 volts (blue/white to blue/black). I checked the 40 amp fuse which was labled Heater fan and it’s good. So… any idea what I should check next? switch?
Check the voltage on the blue/white lead, but use chassis as the ground point not the blue/black lead.
94
it starts working all of a sudden… it’s weird…
it’s a tiring day for work…
So… bad news.
Turns out the heater fan works some time and quites for no reason some other times. what could the problem be? should I check the switch?
Yea, check the switch, make sure the black ground lead going to the switch is a good ground:dozing: 94
so I have took appart everything so that I can physically take the switch out, but how do I check if the switch is good or bad? how do I know if it is a good ground?
before the heater fan gave up working, it woulld blow for a one time, and when you stop the car, turn the car back on, it won’t work; turn the car back off and on, it’ll work again.
You will need a multimeter.
You can also do a simple “jump” test, use a piece of wire, grounded at one end, to supply a ground to the output leads of the switch plug…
1- blue
2- blue/white
3- blue/yellow
4- blue/black
The black lead is the ground.:sipread:94
So if I stick the wire into the harnas of the blue/black pin, I go to ground right? so I want to find a 12V so I can test my blow motor.
The blower motor has 12V+ going directly to it, [blue/white, at the blower motor] hot when ign. is on.
The “Heater Fan Switch” supplies the blower motor with a ground, the blue/black lead is a direct ground, [#4 full speed] the blue/yellow goes through a resistor in the “Blower Resistor Pack” before it goes to the blower motor, [#3 speed] the blue/white goes through two resistors in the “BRP” before it goes to the blower motor, [#2 speed] and the blue goes through 3 resistors in the “BRP” before going the the blower motor, [#1 speed].
All you need to do is ground each one of those leads, [one at a time] if the blower motor works at all 4 speeds you know the blower motor is good and the “BRP” is good and the problem has to be the “Heater Fan Switch” or the ground, [black] going to the “BFS”.
94
Where does the blue/white go upstream? I think that’s where the problem is because there’s no voltage.
The blue/white lead in the 2pin plug, plugged into the blower motor, comes from the under dash fuse box.
Fuse is the main accessory fuse, upper right side of fuse box, under plastic clip.
You will also want to check for power on the 2nd ign. lead, [blue/white] comming from the ign. switch, [ign. switch in run], ign. switch problems are a common problem on G2s.94
So I’ve check the voltage from the back of the ignition switch, there’s no power voltage no the blue/white wire when the car is on… should I replace the ignition switch? or should I replace the 40 amp fuse first?
If you have no power on the blue/white lead coming from the ign. switch, you will have to replace it, lucky you have a G2, you can replace just the switch itself.
To confirm that the switch is the problem, use a piece of wire, [same gauge as the blue/white or thicker] and jump from the black/yellow, [ign. 1] to the blue/white, you can do this at the ign. switch plugs at the end of the ign. switch harness.
If the blower motor works, get a new switch, or you can try…http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignition_switch/index.html 94
So I shorted the Blue/white to the Black/white, and I heard a click, then the fan start working even I take the jump wire away. So it’s the ignition switch huh…
Well, I won’t have time till the next few days to go to the dealer to get myself one, so I shorted the harness end, except it’s hard to do the black white, so I put a jump wire between the blue while and the white. Is this going to hurt anything? my work is like 20 mins from home, so the heat is going to be on this way like 30 mins max.
It will not hurt anything, you can also jump to the acc. lead, [yellow] so you do not have to remove the jumper when you turn off the ign.:whisper: 94
Dealer try to rip me off… they quoted me 312.16 for an ignition switch… :mad: decided to buy one online, was like 50 something.
they quoted me 312.16 for an ignition switch
That would be with the key cylinder and keys. all you need is the switch… http://item.express.ebay.com/1990-1993-ACURA-INTEGRA-IGNITION-SWITCH-NEW-OEM_W0QQitemZ150208954185QQihZ005QQtrZexpQQcmdZExpressItem :whisper: 94
I bought one at autopartswarehouse.com already, alone with spark plugs, gasoline filter, and some other lil stuff, I got free shipping and a 5 dollar off discount.
Just wanted to post and say thanks to fcm…I had similar issues and after searching and reading your posts and applying what I read to my car…everything works perfect now. thanks again!!:rockon: