My car is fine in stop start traffic etc and 10" and 12" fans both come on when the coolant gets a bit hot when stationary.
Problem is when I am boosting a bit either up hills or lots of accelerating the coolant starts to overheat.
I have a stock radiator with the slim fans mentioned above but this seems to happen when the car is moving and getting plenty of airflow.
not sure on the actual water temp but I know that the oil gets to about 270F before the standard water gauge will suddenly shoot up from its usual position.
Question is- will a Aluminium radiator like the one below, solve my problem? is it simply a capacity issue and I need more coolant in the radiator at any one time to chill before it heads back to the motor?
currently running 8PSI an a stock B18C and there are no leaks or bubbles in the system
that rad will definitely help. we all have overheating problems but most guys run with the half rads such as myself. id start with the aluminum rad and if that doesnt work i’d get better fans. although your problem is when the cars moving so that shouldn’t affect it. also i suggest to get a water temp gauge.
yeah I just relocated my boost gauge to make provision for a water temp gauge. Got the sensor adaptor already, just need the gauge.
So, anyone got suggestions on what is a good radiator to get? seen the Mishimoto but have heard some poor reviews. I was thinking of a Koyo but have not seen one for the DA as yet.
its not the rad its the intercooler blocking the air flow to the rad causing your issue. thats why your having issues only when driving and not at idle. search honda tech for some threads on this issue
I put the JDM spacers in my hood so it tilts up in the back, that helped my issue. All that heat has nowhere to go with it down. My intercooler is mu bumper so it can’t escape there. Try it.
Bump for the intercooler blocking all the air. Ive put a pusher fan instead of puller and it helped getting air through the intercooler and then into the rad. Also, i<ve changed from civic std half rad 1inch thick to a 2inch tick one. No issue anymore. I really thought before this that it was my HG blown because coolant would bubble into the bottle cause its gotten too hot.
yeh ive got a 50mm pwr rad and that bought my temp on my aftermarket gauge to regulate at 75 degree C but the stock gauge which is in the head is reading high but will cool quick at idle or doing excessive speed of 80kmph. the aftermarket gauge is in the bottom rad hose
this means the water temp leaving is still 75 however the stock gauge is still heating
i also have a pusher and a puller on my rad and it did help considerably but when u have 40 degree days it would still cope but im having probs with stock gauge over heating ive bled the system a number of times aswell
the other thing is i have a 100mm thick intercooler infront of the rad also a condensor
your issue is poor airflow. that hood tilt trick hurt you more than it helped. that space you’ve created is just a vacuum and hot air is at a stand still. ducting is what you’ll need to do. PUT YOUR HOOD back down. also everybody swears on the Spal 13" fan. I know it moves some air and most will tell you that there temps went down considerably. about water temps, mishimoto sells a radiator cap with a gauge on top. I use it and it’s pretty good. no plumbing into my system at all.
also, I run a mishimoto half size radiator and have had no issues. been on my car for 2 years with a FAL fan setup.
Lets see, my car over heated after a 15 min drive and I couldnt get the temp to lower with the heat on.
Put the spacers in for the tilt and now i can drive all over and NO HEATING issues at all.
Its all escaping out the back.
Speaking from experience here bud.
people say that the rad fan is useless on the highway because of the airflow and such. however, if there’s no/limited airflow like we see very often on DA’s then why would the fan be useless? wouldn’t it just pull air through the rad and everything would be cool? i have no idea about how airflow works and positive pressures and etc. so it’s something I’ve been wondering.
[QUOTE=Sirtef9;2028394]Lets see, my car over heated after a 15 min drive and I couldnt get the temp to lower with the heat on.
Put the spacers in for the tilt and now i can drive all over and NO HEATING issues at all.
Its all escaping out the back.
Speaking from experience here bud.[/QUOTE]
that makes no sense to me. you had other issues because the area between your windshield and hood is a high pressure zone and with the hood tilted up like that creates a vacuum. the only people who take full benefit from this are the few running ITB’s. ITBs benefit from this because the air being forced in is cooler than the air thats been filtered through the radiator. if anything, you raised your under hood temps while driving and at a stand still temps go down!!!
and yes, I have done the tilt hood trick in the past and NO it doesn’t work, and it’s to the reasoning I mentioned above and there are several threads about this on HT. Read on and oh yeah, Im not your bud!!!
