Hey Im Thinkin Of Taking My 95 Gsr And Putting A B20 Wit Darton Sleeves And A Lightened Crank And Rods For Boost, But Im Not Sure How The Secondary Intake Runners Will Be Affected By The Boost? Is It Going To Cause Mechanical Problems? Or Will It Be Fine. Gonna Be Pushing Around 18-20 Psi When Completed
The only Mechanical Problems i see is if you use a non oem honda crank. I would use the GSR crank and rods in the B20.
Are you going CR-V?
PSi has nothing to do with a turbo build what matters is your turbo choice
its an eagle steel forged knifed edge ls crank, good for 900hp. this would give me more torgue in the bottom end, like a lsv setup
a oem honda crank will do the same thing
yeah but wouldnt the lightened crankshaft give me less weight of rotating mass. i would think this would equal quicker revs since there is less rotating weight. talked to one of my v8 buddies, and he thinks that it would rev faster, but you get less torque off the line, but since i will be spooling(hopefully) it would give me a little less boost lag in lower rpms.
you cannot compare a v8 to a inline 4. they are totally different and react very differently to the same mods. a mod thats good for a v8 can be disaster for an inline 4.
right, i understand that totally. but somethings are similar
somethings are yes, but keep your crank 100% stock. you’ll thank yourself.
This portion of your statement leads me to believe that you didn’t read the g2ic turbo guide.
[I]
"Setting a Realistic Goal
It is very important to establish a realistic goal early in the project. You should consider your budget and also determine a target horsepower. Do not base your goals on a certain PSI. PSI is not a valid consideration because the turbo determines what PSI will result in what level of power. For instance 10psi on a tiny T25 turbo will not produce nearly the amount of power that a huge diesel semi truck turbo will at 10psi. A small turbo will produce less volume of air flow, and therefore less power, at a given PSI than a large turbo. Also keep in mind that generally the higher your horsepower goal is, the more money it will take to reach that goal. Be realistic when setting the horsepower goal, 300 horsepower in a front wheel drive Honda is A LOT of power for the street. It is a good idea to keep in mind such things as fuel consumption and wheel spin when setting your goal. Many people setting out on the forced inducting path throw around horsepower numbers without much knowledge about just how much power it is and how the car will react to it."[/I]
Good Luck with your build.
yes i understand that, i should have brushed up on my reading on boosting. i am not sure how much hp i want to achieve. just want to be the fastest around my area. was thinking bout going all motor, but i really want to go boosted. i dont want to just have a turbo just to say i have a turbo teggy. i want to be able to hit the pedal and leave everthing in my rear view.
i think you’d be happy with around 400whp.
yeah, i would def love to hit that amount. is it possible without putting in like darton solid sleeves???
Possibly, Yes. But will it last probably not.
Is there a reason that your dead set on Darton Sleeves?
Personally after a ton of reasearch I decided to go with Golden Eagle’s sleaves, Quite a few peope have had cooling issues with the Darton MID’s.
I know 3 other people personally with GE sleeves and 0 issues yet.
Also why not just go with a aftermarket intake manifold and disable the secondaries in the ecu?
i have a new set of darton mid sleeves i’d sell you for $400, i decided not to put them in my lsvtec set up. i’m pushing 425hp and the stock sleeves are fine with good tuning. i’m also running a low cp ratio (8.9:1) so there is a little less pressure up there. I’m pushing 18lbs of boost with a t3/t4 57trim. b20 stock sleeves are junk, so you need to sleeve it to have it last, but gsr sleeves are ok for that hp #
ok thanks, good to know. nah i am all set at this point right now but thanks. just trying to do some research before i start my build
i don’t mean budge in but what’s the difference from oem and aftermarket in performace? i know one is lighter and forged.
well think that all honda cranks are forged. the eagle crank that i have is lighter then the original. got a great deal on that and a set of eagle h-beam rods. couldnt pass over the deal even if i were to discard the crank. just wanted to get some other builders opinions on the case before i start to build. thought it would be great to use the new lighter one, but everyone so far feels that the stock crank would be the better route to go…anyone want a eagle crank??? lol