Sorry for duplicate thread. The posts in the Hybrid forum seem focused mostly on how to do a swap, and this thread is disappearing fast with no respones. FYI, this is a b16a1 in a 91 LS.
Before I get the little search smiley, I ahve done a search, and as a result, have some info.
My warm idle is bouncing from about 750 to 1500 rpm. This seems to be a common problem but with many many solutions. So far, I have done all of the simple things: my coolant is fine, my brake pressure is fine, my voltage regulator is working properly. I only have one O2 sensor running from my header, but it doesn’t throw codes, and splicing it did not solve this problem (and made the engine seem to run a little worse). Today I took apart my fast idle valve, but that is also working correctly.
One thing that may be curious is that when I pull off the 3P connector to the TPS, the idle goes up to 2K and stays there. I don’t know if this is a normal result. If not, I would think this indicates that my problem is electrical, rather than a problem with vacuum like I thought.
Any thoughts on this? And what effects can I expect from running with the TPS disconnected, other than getting the high idle and check engine light? I am happier with the 2K constant idle than the bouncing one (I sit in traffic a lot unfortunately), but I want to make sure I’m not f-ing anything up in the meantime.
Want to pull this to the top and also add a question.
I read that I can’t use a b18 intake manifold with the b16, but I assume all of the other pieces from the manifold are ok. In other words, if I swap out the IACV and TPS from my old b18 manifold and throttle body, they should work alright with the b16 stuff, right?
Take your IACV off of the back of your intake manifold and spray it out with some carb clean and then make sure to blow it out well with a compressor or some compressed air. Once those things get dirty inside it sends the idle to hell, and it is a pretty easy fix.
Yes, the sensors will work fine on your b16 manifold as long as they connect to your wiring harness alright.
I am currently experiencing the same problem also. One of the things I have found is that both my fuel purge and evap solenoid valves have been disconnected. The evap canister to solenoid valve hose has been disconnected. Also my evap solenoid valve is used for the fuel pressure regulator, which leaves my fuel purge valve disconnected. Apart from this, I also found that both valves have to be connected to the intake manifold which was not. I have reconnected both in their proper locations (used a tee-fitting for the intake manifold part), which seemed to have fixed the bouncing idle problem. However, I still have problems with it. I am thinking that it could be the IACV as you and BR pointed out, but just need the time to inspect it.
So in conclusion, you might want to inspect your hoses and make sure that none are just dangling for no reason.
This weekend I replaced my IACV. Mine was in pretty sorry shape once I got it off of the manifold (i.e. the underside was all rusted etc.) I’m not too sure what the internals looked like. However, I used my old b18 IACV and mounted it up. I also replaced a few hoses and clamps since I was back there anyway. I don’t think my hoses were a problem but better safe than sorry especially since it was all pulled apart anyway.
So for the moment I have no bouncing idle problem.
i have the same problem… but i have already replaced my iacv and when i disconnect the tps, i am left with a constant idle of about 2500-3500 rpms depending on how i adjust the idle screw… will i have to get a new tps sensor, i just dished out 170 bucks for a new iacv (honda dealership said it would fix the problem) …
Originally posted by ocbeta Just for the heck if it all, what is the IACV
Idle Air Control Valve. Now you can search for all the info you could ever want
I have a very bad problem. I just cleaned my IACV using The_Oz method in the Article/Teg Tips section. I reinstalled everything, hooking up both coolant hoses and sensor. Now I have a horrific idle. The car idles at 100-200 rpm and wants to shut off. It’s so bad the lights dim. The biggest problem of them all is I need the car tommorow. So if anybody could help rather quickly, that would be great. TIA.
I just took it off again to clean it out with air again. I did loose quite abit of coolant and im putting some in right now. I havent played around with my ilde screw yet but ill try that also if its still bad. Do you have msn or im I could get a hold of you easier at BR? Thanks Alot!
Originally posted by XDEep sounds like you didnt plug the 2p connector back on to the iacv valve.
Could be, but he would also be throwing code 14 if that was it.
Did you make sure to put the coolant lines back in the right spots??
I just toped up the coolent and bled it and its idling fine now. I went for a short ride and its idling alot better than before I took it apart. Im gonna take it for another ride just to make sure nothing happens. Thanks for all the help guys! OH also how could the low coolant give you such a crappy idle? I really appreciate all the help!
Problems back. I really don’t get it. I went to the gas station and when I came to start my car I put the car in the on position(Usually leave it there for about 2 secs) then cranked it and all power went off. No lights, nothing. Popped the hood and touched the negative batterie terminal, sat back in the car, car starts fine. Only problem is, the idle problem is back. And I added you by the way.
