New calipers, rotors, and pads on each wheel less than 6 months ago. Now the booster/master cylinder must be acting up… The pedal feels completely different every time I hit it, sometimes it’ll be rock solid, and other times it’ll be spongy as hell. The brakes have already been bled twice since I got the listed new parts.
I just don’t know if its the booster/master cylinder. And I don’t have a lot of money to dump into this… is there some test I can perform to determine which one it is for sure? And when I do whats the cheapest way to go about fixing it?
My master cylinder doesn’t loose any fluid anywhere either, its always full.
Could be the seal on the master cylinder, Letting fluid bleed passed causing the squishy feel. Sometimes my pedal would start out stiff then slowly become soft when holding the brake in, like at a stop light.
I had this same problem on 3 of my Tegs. If you wait too long…one day you’ll lose your brakes completely, when you need them the most. I almost got into a wreck with an 18wheeler over a bad master cylinder.
The OEM master cylinders…a majority of them go out after about 10-15 years, and it starts with weird pedal feelings, getting mushy/hard randomly, then they start loosing all pressure after a while.
I highly recommend that anyone with a G2…replace their OEM master cylinder, even if it’s not acting up. Those little seals can only last so long, and some people aren’t lucky enough to get the “pedal feel” warning. It may just go out completely one day while driving. Better safe than sorry, and they don’t cost too much.
yeah i want to, so i guess my only option is acura dealer pretty much… buying online from one of thsoe acura parts sites for me might end being mroe cuz i live in canada…
Opo: Do you not have auto parts stores up there? Much cheaper than buying from Acura.
Or…if you have a Debit or Credit Card…go to autozone.com or oreilys.com. Those are two of the larger chains of auto parts retailers. A master cylinder from them is no different than one from Acura…other than the price.
I paid about $50-60 for a brand new master cylinder from Autozone, I don’t remember if they swap cores or not. If you’re going to Acura…add a couple hundred on to that price.
Yeah the two largest chains of parts stores up here are Carquest and Partsource I believe, I’m going to check both of them for quotes on a new master cylinder on Tuesday. And then pick one up as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for all the help guys, greatly appreciated.
Carquest $66 after return of old one
Napa $62 after return of old one
Partsource $75 after return of old one
These are all rebuilt master cylinders they’re talking about here, new ones they had available for $300+
I take it rebuilt master cylinders can last just as long as a brand new one though anyways?
What exactly is involved with replacing the master cylinder? I’ve done valve adjustment, engine swap on my buddie’s car, pads and rotors, oil changes etc etc. but I’ve never done a master cylinder before, is it hard? Anything I should definitely know before attempting it?
Well, this is a minor thing, and you likely know this already, don’t get the brake fluid on the paint, it isn’t fun… Thank you all for this thread, I have been wondering if it was just water in my braking system causing my issues, and now, I’m getting my rear up and going into town as soon as I can to find out what a Master cylinder will cost. Thank you all again for this thread, this is the most helpful one as of yet for safety reasons.
If your master cylinder had a leaking seal would it not over a short time loose brake fluid? Im having brake issues on my 91… the brakes seem fine when cold butonce they warm up the brakes become squishy and a times the pedal goes right to the floor… Having 1/4" f pedal… but I am not losing any brake fluid? WOuld this be a bad master cylinder or brake booster?
Like I have done the test on the brake booster and even that gives me mixed results… one time the system passes and then the next it doesnt… like its weird… i dont know what that proble,m really is
Well, if it is a bad seal in the master cylinder, I would think that it wouldn’t loose any fluid because the fluid may be just going past the piston within the master cylinder, like oil and blow by past bad piston rings in the engine, it may be leaking things within the engine, but not outside of it.
[QUOTE=Opo;1728561]New calipers, rotors, and pads on each wheel less than 6 months ago. Now the booster/master cylinder must be acting up… The pedal feels completely different every time I hit it, sometimes it’ll be rock solid, and other times it’ll be spongy as hell. The brakes have already been bled twice since I got the listed new parts.
I just don’t know if its the booster/master cylinder. And I don’t have a lot of money to dump into this… is there some test I can perform to determine which one it is for sure? And when I do whats the cheapest way to go about fixing it?
My master cylinder doesn’t loose any fluid anywhere either, its always full.[/QUOTE]
I did this along with stainless lines. I’m on my 3rd master cylinder and the problem hasn’t gone away.
