Hey guys, I’m Alex. I have a 1990 LS Integra with a B20 swap. I just got finished putting the whole kit together and am getting ready to start the install. This is my 5th DA, 2nd B20 swapped DA, but first boosted B20 DA. My plan for the car is autocross and only around 7-8lbs of boost. Gonna fix the front end after the install.
So here is what I have so far:
ECU Chipped, base map tuned on Chrome
OBD0-OBD1 ECU jumper
450cc DSM injectors
Godspeed Intercooler
Blox Manifold
57 trim turbo with .63ar exhaust
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Greddy knock off BOV
Thermal RD 3 inch exhaust
Tial 38mm Wastegate
H&R lowering springs
Suspension Techniques Front and rear lower sway bars
Solid Motor mounts
plus all the oil lines, gaskets, half radiator, and all sorts of odds and ends.
stickers are now gone. silly ricer previous owner.
Changed from internal wastegate to external
the B20 after sitting for 2 years
quick wipe down
after I picked up the Exhaust
Just traded the Konig B Bombs for the Rota Grids. Gonna paint them Pink for autocross
Test Fitting. All set for the install on friday.
Good luck with the build, curious as to how well the internals will hold up. I wanna put about 7lbs on a b20 as well.
Hello, i have a 1990 LS Integra with a B20B swap. I bought the car with the B20 swap semi installed. The previous owner was a total dipshit with the car but i picked it up for cheap so I decided to make this my autocross/drag car. The mods that were on the car when I bought it was
-b20 swap
-Solid motor mounts
-H&R lowering springs
-Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars
-Crower stage 2 turbo camshafts
-AEM cam gears
-Konig B-Bombs wrapped in Toyo T1Rs
the car ran but didn’t idle when I bought it. I was told by the previous owner and the shop mechaninc that it was the IACV.
I got the car home and began to work on my turbo kit. After 3 weeks, I got all the parts for my kit and the install began by one of my friends that is a certified mechaninc.
During the install, he found that the cam gears were not tight and were spinning loosly and that the cams were not installed correctly. The car was missing many bolts and was a hack job install of the b20 by the previous owner. My mechaninc did a great job replaceing all the missing bolts and rewiring and replacing the other guys mess ups. After 3 weeks the kit was done and installed and lots of other little things were fixed on the car. The kit consisted of
-Air Research t3/t4 .57 trim turbo
-Blox manifold
-Tial 38mm wastegate with 7.2psi spring with dump tube
-custom 2.5 to 3 inch downpipe.
-custom 2.5 intercooler piping with t bolt clamps
-Godspeed intercooler
-Civic half radiator with 12" slim fan
-Thermal R&D 3" exhaust
-3 inch airfliter
-Greddy knock off blow off valve
-OBD1 to OBD0 conversion
-Chipped ecu, base map on chrome
-450cc DSM injectors
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Rota Slipstreams wrapped in Nitto Gens
-Auto Meter Boost gauge
So now for my issue,
ISSUE 1: the car hunts for an Idle between 500 and 1500 rpms. The car will idle but revs up and down and up and down and up and down.
ISSUE 2:The car will also die when coming to a stop after driving it for a while, say 30 mins and up.
Replaced the IACV with 3 others with getting slightly better idle than when we pick it up but still not great. The camshafts have been installed correctly and tightened down and a valve adjustment has been done correctly. We have gone over the motor many times and checked all the bolts on the intake manifold to the block and the bolts of the throttle body to the Intake manifold. There are no boost leaks on the piping or intercooler. Throttle body has a gasket and same with intake manifold. Unplugging the MAP sensor hose causes the car to idle higher but stay at the same rpm. Blocking the hole with my finger causes it to drop to around 1000rpm but stays even there. We replaced the MAP sensor but still hunts for Idle. No other vaccume leaks that we can find. The car is just on a base map and will be tuned using chrome this weekend. I hope that its just from being not tuned but would also like to find and fix the issue before the tune. I also replaced the main relay and it is good.
Once the car dies, I have found that when I pull the cap off the distributor and let it cool off for about 5 mins, the car will fire right back up. I have replaced the igniter in the distributor and that helped with the idle issue as well. I am thinking that replacing the coil is a good idea as well. Ideas on where I can get one? Autozone schucks? Im not sure but is a 0BD0 coil compatable with a OBD1 distributor? Keeps me from having to buy a new one 
My mechanic also says that I should remove the crower cam and replace it with a stock cam setup. He said that it too could be causing a bad idle. I would like to keep them on the motor but not at the sacrifice of the car running correctly.
The car is in rough shape right now body wise but hood, bumper, fenders should be sanded and primered before autocross season. This is my 5th DA, 2nd B20 swapped, first turboed. Thanks and sorry for the long post but any help would be great
No dump tube?
i dont think obd0 coil will fit the obd1 also u should check the dsm injectors and the wiring for it…gas gives it a rough idle as well sometimes so i would try 89 at least even better 93 octane. just a suggestion. my buddy turboed his car stock no tune yet but it still idled fine. the gas inside the car must have sat for too long so hope i helped out
Hey there… Im trolling both of your threads now! haha (IMS)
As for the idle: Where does it idle when its completely cold? Does it start high and come down like its suppose to when it warms? Im wondering if the inability to maintain the idle and occasionaly shut off means that white plastic screw in the fitv is in too far? Just a though, and something else to check.
From personal experience, I use to have a GSR that would surge idle after vtec engagement. It turned out the fitv built into the throttle body was bad. When the car was warm, I popped off the intake and plugged my finger over the lower hole in the throttle body. From what i understand the fitv is suppose to close and stop pulling air in once it warms up. I replaced the throttle body and it fixed it right up! The DA’s tb’s/fitv is a little different though. (Thats all from memory so dont hold me to that)
pic of final turbo install
got tired of the 3 different colored front end
rhino lined the back part to cut down on rattle.
I would just eliminate the IACV all together, most likely that’s what’s causing the idle to bounce. I’ve had several go out on me and since i just eliminate them and turn up the idle using the manual adjustment screw on top of the TB. I have had several Honda’s where i’ve done that and they run fine. Only downside is it will throw a code. Some tuning programs will allow you to turn the code off. I’m actually doing that on a customers S14 w/SR20DET swap. I built a block off plate and the AEM EMS S2 allows you to disable it.
The OBD0 and OBD1 coils are not interchangable. The coil driver is moved center on one of them.
As for the block, i rebuilt a customers B20b he had been running a similar setup tuned on chrome. 7lbs gauged daily and he occasionally had it up to 12lbs gauged. It ended up cracking 2 pistons. I built him a Eagle/Weisco setup with ARP studs, a .040" Cometic gasket, and a Blox block guard, re-tuned on chrome with DSM 450 injectors with no problem. You will have to replace the valve springs over time though, they will get worn out and won’t be able to handle the additional boost pressure.
Also don’t run anything less then 93 with boost, if you can i would run E85 on it. It’s 110 octane, runs cleaner, and far less knock prone. Downside is, your injector seals will fail over time. E85 just eats through them.
I would suggest NOT zip tying that vacuum hose to the steel braided oil feed line.
Id also suggest removing that header wrap from the silicone elbow and soaking/rewrapping the wrap on the dumptube.
[QUOTE=GO-AUTOWORKS;2253176]I would suggest NOT zip tying that vacuum hose to the steel braided oil feed line.
Id also suggest removing that header wrap from the silicone elbow and soaking/rewrapping the wrap on the dumptube.[/QUOTE]
You figure the idle out???
I’m Intrested to know, I am Thi king to go b20 turbo myself.
How is the car running??
I know this is an old thread.
My .02 cents. dicth the front sway bar any use that money to upgrade the injectors to 1000cc and IMO, replacement of the entire distributor would be best. at there age if its not one problem, its another…
As far as the haunting idle, it seems as if you have covered most of your bases as far as diagnostics go. couple things I wouldnt invest too much time until you get it tuned. if at that point it still haunts, start spraying a little starter fluid around vacuum lines and engine seals to see if the idle raises and steadies.
I dont think stage 2 cams boosted or not would alter the idle but you would have to check the manufactures specs on that
This sounds like you took a beater and made something that can take a beating, Kudos to you, Ive been in a couple boosted b20’s and if properly tune can be a beast 
ohhh, year late but informations never expires 