So my LS is right at 197,xxx miles it’s still running strong, but I want to rebuild it, I have about $1700 to spend so hmotorsonline.com has 94-97 gsr long blocks for $1700 and SIR B16 swaps for $1500. Question is which motor should I get, my LS cable tranny is grinding pretty bad in 3rd and 4th and I have a spare b16 trans laying around, so I was thinking GSR, because I don’t wanna lose my torque, but I get more with the b16 swap and i’ll have a extra b16 trans, are b16 motors in DA’s really that slow with the tranny to match? My LS has walked B16 DA9’s before but they all had LS trans. Opinions are welcome. which ever motor goes in is just a temp motor for the next couple of years or so to get me buy until I fully build my LS so it will only get the usual i/h/e intake manifold and a little tune.
a b16 in a DA with a b16 short geared tranny is great, ive riden a few and they have blew my mind everytime on how it feels, i’d say since you already have a b16 trans get a b18c longblock, but if you go buying a b16 swap, and have the extra transmission sell that and build up the b16 with fresh parts, like timing belt, better intake manifold and cams
I have a obd1 b16 swap which I love. They are not nearly as slow as all the haters say, but, since you already have a b16 tranny… I would say go b18c. That should be a fun motor in a DA.
I have the 94 B18C from Hmotorsonline. A couple of issues you should know about so you are prepared.
*The ECU will be the JDM P72. This has a speed governor. Keep that in mind.
(I am told) You cannot chip a JDM P72 to remove it. You would need to get a USDM P72 chipped with a JDM map.
*The wiring will be a major bitch, so make sure you have the necessary materials needed before you tackle it, i.e., manuals, diagrams, harnesses, etc. I obtained a lot of bad info from the internet. IT IS NOT A DIRECT SWAP! The plugs DO NOT just plug right up. Hmotorsonline told me this was true and so did many others online. Some of the connectors will connect, but the wires are not right. You will need to rewire the motor, especially if you are doing like I did, and plan on keeping the car OE. I was told the only wiring I needed to do was for the secondary butterflies. This is not true; if anyone tells you this then disregard everything they tell you. You also need to run a wire to the ECU for the Alt if you choose to use the DC Alt.
*The exhaust flange will not line up correctly to a stock DA exhaust.
*The DA rear mount bracket will not fit completely to the DC motor. You will have to order new bolts from Acura (2 14 mm bolts (thread diameter)) (I bought 2 but one of the holes in the bracket is not large enough to fit the second through, and I couldn’t modify it to work) and metal 1 cylinder tube. I don’t know if you can just buy a 94 bracket, but I didn’t know where to find one. I suggest upgrading your rear mount at this time!
*My valve cover hits my hood. It has fubar-ed my valve cover. I suggest you cut out the braces that are in the way before you ruin your valve cover.
- The power steering pulley does not work with the DC motor pulley. If you plan on keeping power steering, you need to either swap out pulleys from the DA motor to the DC. OR you need to buy an Unorthodox racing pulley for the Power Steering pump. This is NOT an under drive pulley, it is just a light weight pulley that changes from the V shaped belt to the serpentine style. The pulleys on the DC power steering pump and DA pump ARE NOT INTERCHAGABLE.
That is all I can think of right now. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. GreenblingGSR@Gmail.com
Here is my build thread.
Is this a JDM motor thing? I used a DA rear bracket to put my b16 in my CRX, and when I upgraded to my GSR block, I used the same bracket with no issues. Not exactly the same scenario since I was using aftermarket mounts, but from what you’re describing, it was the bracket<-> engine connection that was the problem for you, and I didn’t have that problem. Just curious.
hmm… maybe it is
I called acura multiple times to try and figure it out, because I thought that I needed the 94+ bracket.
The guy i talked to said that they both had the same part number in the catalog. So they should be the same.
But see that can’t be true. Because we went on to find out that the 94+ bracket/block used 14mm (thread diameter) bolts and the G2 motor used a 12 mm (thread diameter). But when i got the bolts the 14mm bolts wont fit through the DA bracket. I had to modify the one hole, and the other I couldn’t modify enough.
So a 94+ motor has to use a different bracket because the bolts for a 94+ dont fit a DA bracket. Whether or not the USDM bracket is different from the JDM bracket, i don’t know.
But the JDM DC motor definitely had a different mounting system
Because of all these stupid set backs, it took me over a month to do this motor swap. And I was using a DB2 chassis. It was already OBD1 and vtec was already all wired up.
I was told all i needed to do was take the old motor out, put the new motor in, wire up the butterflies, connect the harness connectors, and hoses and viola.
I was told this by over 5 different sources. And I made sure they weren’t forgetting it is a JDM motor.
My brother made the 4 hour trip up here to help me out. He planned to only stay 1 day because we both thought that was all it would take. HA
Don’t get me wrong I am not trying to discourage you!!! do it do it, do the swap. Just know what you are getting into before you do. Be prepared. Info on it is surprisingly difficult to find.
Hmm, did you use the transmission that came with the motor? I found these pages about putting a JDM b18c into a CRX:
http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/b18c-parts-list.htm
http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/b18c-step-by-step.htm
Relevant part is, “and the rear tranny bracket (“t” bracket) needs to be from a 90-91 integra (or a gen 1 b16a). It will also need to be drilled out (on the 2 holes that bolt to the tranny) with a 9/16ths metal drill bit. The gsr tranny uses bigger hardware. Its easier than it looks. This is not needed for cable trannys.”
Although I double checked, and the Acura part number is the same for all 90-93 brackets, regardless of tranny time, number of doors, or what engine (DB2 included). I don’t think a DC bracket would work in a DA.
I did
Yeah it is possible to enlarge the bracket for both bolts, I just didnt have the tools necessary to get the second hole. It has a tube inside the hole.
I dont remember exactly but, if the bracket bolts into the tranny, it wouldn’t be an issue for 8URV8. Thanks for pointing that out.
damn that sounds like alot of issues to run into! I am looking to finish the swap in a day or two since it’s my Daily driver, so for simplicity I may just get the b16 swap! they are sold out on the DA b16 swaps, would this swap below be a direct bolt-in process! I’m guessing i’ll need some kind of OBD- conversion harness since my car is a 93.
SIR I 88-91
http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30002
dude,
Hmotorsonline sells JDM motors
all jdm motors are going to have most of the same issues,
*they are going to have a governor, it is the law out there,
*the wiring is going to be a bitch, its different then USDM,
Even if you get the B16 it still might have the following issues…
*the exhaust not bolt right up (dude just take it to a shop and have them modify the header. no biggie, I had a complete exhaust put on while i was there.
*hit your hood,
*the power steering may use a different type of belt. You just need to change the crank pulley to fix this.
AAANND your not going to have the problem with the rear bracket like i did since you are using a B16 tranny.
So dude Trust me!! get the B18C!
Don’t wimp out on it cause of a few issues. And if you think about it you are have to tackle some of those issues anyway… So why settle?
Except for the wiring they are all easy to fix, and can be fixed in a day IF YOU ARE PREPARED! and you would still have to f with the wiring even if you wimped out and got the B16.
GET THE B18, just be prepared. I told you all this so you would know. Not to talk you out of buying the B18. No one told me and i was screwed.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY B18C
i know a guy who chips ecu’s so the governor is no problem for me, one of my friends has done so much wiring on swapped hondas it’s not even funny so I would have that covered if he is not busy, I don’t know I will most likely be doing the swap by myself so I would like few to very little issues at all, I know there will be some, I just don’t want anything major. I will take your advice though, and try to sort out all the issues before I drop the motor in, that way it can go a tad bit smoother!
well… JDM ECU’s are unchipable, I am told
I asked a shop what my options were and They said they cant chip JDM ECU.
You have to get a USDM equivalent and chip it to run a JDM map.
so see… the only issue you will have with the B18C swap would be the valve cover hitting the hood, and changing the crank pulley.
And both are easy fixes!
BTW upgrade the rear mount!!! wheel hop will own you!
currently have a b16a with a short ys1 in my DA. no complaints-doesnt dissapoint- but when i run next to my buddy (usdm b18a, same chassis) i am very surprised @ how well the b18a performs & can only imagine how beastly a b18c would be. enough to where i want to sell the b16 & drop in a b18c.
if i were in your shoes i would go b18c all the way. and if its to scary you can always sell it for a b16 & have some cash left over 
I’m glad I read this thread before anything. I am going to be buying a b16 trans along with a b18c long block. Does the tranny actaully “bolt right up” to my long block like everyone says?
Yes
^ yes the trans bolts right up!
8URV8 - I have a JDM B18C longblock for sale, comes with Type-R cams, Skunk2 Intake Manifold, and a DC 4-1 header for $1800.
came out of my integra, if you have a OBD-1 car the motor includes the harness for a DA so it will plug right in, and VTEC is all there. all you would need to do is wire in VTEC to an ECU and your done.
let me know, email is chris21012@gmail.com
oh and im in MD and willing to meet you.
i had to change my fuel return line too. the jdm one is smaller diameter than the hose from the da. so u have to change the hose to fit or use your old part from your old fuel rail and just get a longer fuel line. and a vtec upper radiator hose and the vacuum line from the brake booster to the intake manifold is a little differnt but will still fit. u have to use the da power steering pump because the fitting on the ps line is different on the jdm motors. then the vtec oil pressure switch on the obd2 r’s is missing so u have to splice in the vtec solenoid a4 with vtec oil pressure d6 and thats all i think i had to do
I had to replace mine, but not because it didn’t fit, because it wasn’t long enough. I replaced it with the same diameter. (i think)