Ok here is what I have
90 gs 5spd, cai, exhaust, 65 shot zex, bkr7e-11 plugs set to .030, and 2deg retard timing.
So I got the nitrous installed and replaced the plugs took it for a few test runs. I didnt hear any detonation it sounded pretty good and the power was real smooth. I have to say it wasnt what I expected but it def made the car much more enjoyable to drive…
Anyways to the real question. What does this plug tell you?
I put this plug in yesterday did a test run and pulled the plugs and they looked good just a little grey. Then I had to go do more “testing” of course. I sprayed maybe 10-15 more short bursts, then i pulled them this morning to see how things were going… And this is what I have.
BTW 1 and 2 arent this bad at all. But 3 and 4 both look like this which is making me believe my nozzle is to close to the manifold (6" right now)
you should really run colder plugs 11 are to hot i run ngk 3330 plugs for turbo nitrous.there are 7’s .usually with a single fogger the first three are blacker then the rest.cylinders 2-3-4.
I was told different on the plugs. Plus with a little research on ht and ngk books i was told that the number in the middle is the heat range. bkr(7)e-11. Were as stock our heat range is 5. Some people say 7 is only 1 stage colder to were the NGK book says its 2 stages colder.
I took this setup to the drags Friday night and was very dissapointed… Only ran a 16. Came home pulled the plugs and did a compression test just make sure i didnt do any damage running my first bottle of nitrous. Plugs looked good and my compression was 187-187-190-195.
Im hoping a header and better exhaust will yield the power i am looking for…
wow, you should definitely be looking at better times than that. My bro used to run consistent 15.6’s in his 91 LS with nothing more than an intake, removed cat, and a straight through muffler. Everything else was stock. Are you increasing fuel delivery with the n2o? If not, you are accomplishing nothing. Do you know how to launch a fwd vehicle?
Yeah a 16 quarter mile run is kinda weak for your setup. Do you have an MSD hooked up? Better fuel delivery? Drag radials?
For reference, in my old DA, I was squeezing a 65 shot, colder plugs, 2 deg retard, intake, header, straight pipe, exhaust, gutted interior and drag radials and was hitting 14’s.
For your setup, you should at least be hitting 15’s easily… get a good tune before squeezing again…
See and that is what i figured i would hit was high 14’s low 15’s. For one i wasnt ready and was running my 17’s but they have sticky ass tires.
my r/t was .24 and my 60 ft was 2.4… Im pretty good at launching a FWD, thats all I have ever owned. I was hitting a 15.3 in my bone stock Lancer ralliart.
No msd and I have no upgraded fuel components (pump, injectors, etc.)
I have a Header in the mail and a FPR so maybe that will help a bit. Right now all I have is a CAI, and an axle back. So we will see what happens after a little more tuning.
Honestly, you don’t need to upgrade your ignition. The stock ignition is more than sufficient. Do you have the nitrous hooked up to increase your fuel pressure (at the regulator) when it sprays? That’s all you need, not injectors or a fuel pump.
Or, since you’re OBD0, look into using BRE for tuning. If I remember correctly, he added a nitrous control function to it. The software costs nothing and you can use it to activate your nitrous automatically if certain conditions are met. Then you can use it to increase injector duty cycle and retard ignition timing only when the nitrous is spraying. That way, you don’t lose your “off nitrous” ignition advance and fuel settings.
Yeah I follow. The Zex kit is run to the FPR and then the intake line is run to were the FPR was hooked up…
I will do some searching around for BRE Tuning. Thanks for the advice. That sure would make it nice for everyday driving.
I wanted to do a test run at the end of the night without the nitrous and it ran 17.5 lol… But Im guessing that had to do with the ignition being retarded and the colder plugs with a smaller gap…
Also I was doing some reading and searching and some of the old posts recomend not running the nozzle so close to the intake manifold… So right before the race I moved it back another 6" or so… That way it has time to mix in with the air.
The further away from the throttle body, the better. Like you read, this gives it more time to cool the intake charge and mix with the air. Also, you’ll find that with BRE, you must use either a pwo or pr3 ecu (both vtec ecus), but you can use them on a non-vtec motor with no problems. Trust me, I’ve done it twice.
