A good friend of mine who is a huge honda head told me this “Well first off you can’t boost a B20 that high without cracking the sleeves, 9-10 psi max. It’s not a problem with detonation, the sleeves are just too weak to handle the boost.”
im yet to make a conclusion on both ways. but the arguement for them being weaker isnt adding up for some reason. :read: is all u can really do. personally i think its all BS and im going for it. b20 here i come :drool:
why not just buy a b18 block with a cracked cylinder, resleeve with dartons, and bore it to 84mm?
raw materials cost (block + sleeves) would be similar to that of the b20, you’d have the same displacement, stronger sleeves, which would be able to take a lot more boost…
Originally posted by zoomintegra
[B]why not just buy a b18 block with a cracked cylinder, resleeve with dartons, and bore it to 84mm?
raw materials cost (block + sleeves) would be similar to that of the b20, you’d have the same displacement, stronger sleeves, which would be able to take a lot more boost…
$.02 [/B]
half true darton international has a 3 week waiting period (or was it 6) and it cost 1100 when theyre done.
well i dont know how much would a shop charge? darton charges 350$ for the sports package which is replacment sleeves and the brace to close the deck. darton charges 600$ to do the job.
Originally posted by DA9_LS-t well i dont know how much would a shop charge? darton charges 350$ for the sports package which is replacment sleeves and the brace to close the deck. darton charges 600$ to do the job.
i’m paying $200, and i’m sure other shops will charge a similar amount. just talk to the guy, ask around, find one that’s installed their sleeves before. that’s what i did.
B18a block is weaker then the b20b/z…not the other way round. Thats why I went with the b20 instead of boring out my b18a…do a search the answer is there…the b20 is just built thicker/better comparatively to the b18.
Originally posted by zoomintegra i’m paying $200, and i’m sure other shops will charge a similar amount. just talk to the guy, ask around, find one that’s installed their sleeves before. that’s what i did.
thanx for the info. sounds good and i know shops have done it here cause darton is based here. i might have to go this route if i hurt my sleeves.
Originally posted by rcnacura
[B]Are you serious??
B18a block is weaker then the b20b/z…not the other way round. Thats why I went with the b20 instead of boring out my b18a…do a search the answer is there…the b20 is just built thicker/better comparatively to the b18. [/B]
so you’re telling me a stock b20 is stronger than a darton-sleeved b18???
seriously…you think maybe you could send me some of whatever you’re smoking? i could use a hit like that…:bang:
Originally posted by rcnacura I’m talking about stock vs. stock…out of the box kind of thing.
then you haven’t been following my side of the discussion.
recap: by taking a bare b18 block from a junkyard (i’ve seen examples personally which only need new sleeves going for as low as 50 bucks), resleeving it, and eagle/wiseco internals, you’ve spent as much on that bottom end as you would buying a b20, and you’ve got a block that can take a LOT more abuse than the b20 can (for a comparable price)…a few hundred more dollars invested and you’ve got yourself one hefty engine package.
Originally posted by mos Even stock vs. stock, the b20 is weaker. blah.
i would like know why u think this. every one ive seen has cracked in the same place. and it is where the most of the pressure on the wall ISNT. most have been proven to be poor tuning and cracked because of heat. i would just like to see ur side of the arguement and some examples to back it up.