As it says that my gs-r it cranks but wont start. but thats not all the time it does it every once in a while. what could it be…
main relay, you should hear a click when the check engine light turns off just after you turn the key to the on position
if you dont thats more then likely your problem
search a bit next time, there is one thread at the top of this same page dedicated to car wont start problems, and numerous threads
yeah and i did all those problems on that page and still its still doing it and the main relay got check even before you wrote it so before you jump off the wrong foot you need to lean back
include more information in your post then, all you gave was a sentance or two saying your car doesnt start
you didnt give any information on anything you had tried to do or checked
i tried to help while pointing out (nicely i might add) that there was a thread dedicated to no start problems
so “lean back” brutha :hyper:
Before you get all “e-thug” on somebody who is trying to help you, you should state what you have already tried. Now…
Have you checked to see if your fuel system is bleeding back to the tank causing an no start inbetween long sitting times
Same problem here. I’ve read all the posts here, at Team-Integra, and at Tegger.com. I’ve replaced coil, igniter, cap, rotor, wires, MFR, all with new acura parts. Big $'s. Sometimes it starts, but mostly no. If I turn the key and the CEL stays on, it will not start. If it goes out, it starts. Sounds like the MFR, but mine is brand new OEM part. I finally got it to start by unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in.
I have an UNGO alarm. When it wouldn’t start last night, I tried unplugging the ECU again. No start. I messed with the MFR and distributor and no start. Finally, I pulled the fuse to the alarm and when I put it back in, turned the key, the CEL went out and it started. This morning, no start. Pulled the fuse…starts. Get ready to leave work…won’t start. Put the fuse back in…starts. Get to the gas station and after fill up, no start no matter what I do. I’m replacing the 3rd part in the distributor that has the wires to the coil and ignitor…I think it’s the TDC relay from the sensor. I’m at a loss and out of money. Any other suggestions?
Update:
Ok, I bought a new distributer with the TDC, etc. wiring. I’m going to put it in this morning after the motor cools. Why is it hot you ask? I went to work on it this morning where it died at the gas station and tried to start it. CEL stays on. So, I pull the fuse to the alarm and CEL goes off and it starts. (It’s not like I didn’t try that a million times the other night.) Anyway, drove home so I would have access to all tools and food, water, and computer.
I called the guy who installed my alarm and described the problem. He says this alarm only disables starter so the fact that it’s cranking means it’s not the alarm stopping it from that function. He said maybe there is something drawing amps somewhere so that the alarm adds to the problem and disconnecting it lessens the draw. Sounds good, but on two occasions it wouldn’t start till I plugged the alarm back in. Queer right? So, I’m going to replace the distributer and then the whole assembly will be brand new OEM parts all the way down to the plug wires.
Any body know how many grounding points there are on our cars? I have cleaned two on top…valve cover to frame and battery to the Transmission connection. I want to clean and check all those points too to make sure that I’m getting a good ground.
And in case you didn’t read my previous post, I replaced the MFR with a new OEM one too. Running out of ideas.
Any advice is welcome.
the grounds i know of are below
batt to tranny, valve cover to chassis, thermostat houseing, and i think one more in back somewhere…
just look around and you’ll find them, they arent hard to spot, its a good idea to clean the areas and replace the wires if they are old
another update
I put the new distributer in and reconnected the battery. Turned key on and CEL stayed on…cranked…no start. I pulled the fuse to the alarm and tried again and it started. I took off to go to the store where I bought the alarm (about 3 miles a way) and about 1 mile the car died and wouldn’t restart. I tried the fuse in and I tried the fuse out. I rolled into a gas station and called alarm guy. I asked how to completely disable the alarm. After completely disabling the alarm, crank but no start. I put the fuse back in though the alarm is unplugged from the alarm brain…the car starts. I can’t believe it. I drive home because the alarm place is now closed…early Saturday hours. The alarm is not functional…can’t be armed. But for some reason taking that fuse out or putting it in makes the car able to start. I’ve not driven it since I got it home though I have started it a couple of times to see if I could. Once with the fuse in and once with the fuse out. I don’t want to get stranded somewhere again.
If I can get it to start in the morning, I’m going to take it into a shop. I’ve done everything I can think of to do but replace the ECU. A new one is $1000 +. I really don’t have that kind of $.
Again, any ideas from some of you who’ve had your car longer than me or have had some experience with this problem, I welcome the input. I’m wondering if the new coil is bad, but when it starts, it runs fine. Will a bad coil cause intermittent starting problems? And I can’t figure out why a new coil would go bad in 10 days.
[QUOTE=steadyeddy;1733587]I put the new distributer in and reconnected the battery. Turned key on and CEL stayed on…cranked…no start. I pulled the fuse to the alarm and tried again and it started. I took off to go to the store where I bought the alarm (about 3 miles a way) and about 1 mile the car died and wouldn’t restart. I tried the fuse in and I tried the fuse out. I rolled into a gas station and called alarm guy. I asked how to completely disable the alarm. After completely disabling the alarm, crank but no start. I put the fuse back in though the alarm is unplugged from the alarm brain…the car starts. I can’t believe it. I drive home because the alarm place is now closed…early Saturday hours. The alarm is not functional…can’t be armed. But for some reason taking that fuse out or putting it in makes the car able to start. I’ve not driven it since I got it home though I have started it a couple of times to see if I could. Once with the fuse in and once with the fuse out. I don’t want to get stranded somewhere again.
If I can get it to start in the morning, I’m going to take it into a shop. I’ve done everything I can think of to do but replace the ECU. A new one is $1000 +. I really don’t have that kind of $.
Again, any ideas from some of you who’ve had your car longer than me or have had some experience with this problem, I welcome the input. I’m wondering if the new coil is bad, but when it starts, it runs fine. Will a bad coil cause intermittent starting problems? And I can’t figure out why a new coil would go bad in 10 days.[/QUOTE]
i feel sorry for anyone who pays $1000 for a new ecu when i can get one for $50
Where are you getting a new ECU for $50?
i should have said i can get a perfectly “working” ecu for $50
or i could get a brand new chipped ecu for $200 garunted to work
not even a S300 hondata costs 1K
Where can you get a new chipped ECU for $300? Locally or online? I’m not doubting you, I’ve just not ever needed one before and the dealership quoted me $1000. We only have one dealership in Tulsa and they are high.
$1000? Sonunds like a ‘Go to Hell’ price to me!
xenocron, he is a site sponsor as a matter o fact, i’ll give you a link
i’d rather pay $200 for a chipped ecu thats still garunted to work then 1K for a dealer part, espicaly since i’ve had dealer parts crap out on me after 3 weeks
go into the prechipped OBD1-OBD0 ecu thread
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=53
and i was off on the price, only 120 for OBD-0 ecus
Thanks, I’ll look into that. I was going to try to find a salvage yard one, but was worried because if I got a bad one, they won’t take it back.
The car has started and run fine since I disconnected the alarm. It starts with the fuse in or out now. I didn’t take it to the shop because I can’t reproduce the problem right now. If it keeps starting ok all week, I’ll take it in to the alarm shop and have them check that out.
Thanks again for the info about the ECU’s.
update
It wouldn’t start last Wednesday, so I had it towed to a shop and they fixed it. It was the ECU. I didn’t have the money to keep guessing, though I was pretty sure that was all that was left for it to be. Cost me $300 parts and labor. They tested everything to make sure that was the problem.
Anyway, I’m back on the road again and glad to be back in my car. Thanks for all the help. I’m getting another motor for it. I’m going to build a higher compression, more radical cam, NA motor. I guess I’ll get a hondata to tune it, so the information I’ve gotten will be put to use.
Overtorqued camholders
Could overtorqued camholders possibly make it difficult to crank the motor? After replacing my valve seals, I torqued the camholder bolts(per Chilton)
With everything back together, 1st key turn: all lights respond as usual, I hear the fuel pump prime… 2nd key turn: starter engages(sometimes with a “clack” but acts like it doesn’t have enough strength to turn the crank. You can actually hear it straining to puuulll - then it ‘clicks’ and stops. It seems like something is too tight and I know its not the timing belt. I have managed to get it to start twice with the help of a battery charger set to START but it only ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. I have tested the battery. It’s good at 12.5 volts.
ideas…comments please.
if u need relay i got one…
[QUOTE=ALLHAILG2;1739938]Could overtorqued camholders possibly make it difficult to crank the motor? After replacing my valve seals, I torqued the camholder bolts(per Chilton)
With everything back together, 1st key turn: all lights respond as usual, I hear the fuel pump prime… 2nd key turn: starter engages(sometimes with a “clack” but acts like it doesn’t have enough strength to turn the crank. You can actually hear it straining to puuulll - then it ‘clicks’ and stops. It seems like something is too tight and I know its not the timing belt. I have managed to get it to start twice with the help of a battery charger set to START but it only ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. I have tested the battery. It’s good at 12.5 volts.
ideas…comments please.[/QUOTE]
check your alternator, if you got it to start with a charger that means something more then likely isnt right in your chargeing system. i also still wouldnt rule out your battery, i’ve had batterys test good that still had to be raplaced