IDK… hard one to call… you would basically have to roll with tools & a pressure gauge in the trunk to figure whatever it is out at this point I suspect LOL…
these 2nd gens sure do have a mind of their own and can be sweethearts or cruel little bitches when they want to be LOL
yeah I hear ya on this one. I drove it last night with no problem. One thing I have been noticing is when I turn the car to on position the oil light, check engine light, and battery light turn on. Then when the car starts they turn off. Well sometimes the oil light doesn’t come on when you turn the key to the on position. He didn’t come on when it was at the shop but the car ran fine. I noticed it coming on yesterday and it always has when you turn the key to the on position. I wonder if something is messed up witht eh gauge cluster and it shorting something out and causing the car to die. I have another cluster in my garage so I might swap that in there. Not sure yet!
those lights coming on is normal when you turn the key to the “ON” position, or start the car.
Generally they come on for a couple seconds, then you will hear the fuel pump prime along with a loud click that is the main relay… then all those lights should shut off. indicates the start-up checks are good.
if those lights are not always illuminating… specifically the oil light, that could indicate you have an issue with the ICU module behind the fuse panel inside the car.
yeah I know those lights are normal but sometimes the oil light would turn off. I put a different cluster in the car and so far the lights are good. Any ways I think I figured it out. So I started the car and went to back it out of my drive way and it died. I tried to start it 10 times and still nothing. I opened the hood and took the top vacuum hose off the FPR and the car started right up. I turned the car off and put the hose back on and the car is running fine. I’m going to be taking it to work tomorrow and see if it does it. I’m getting another FPR tomorrow from a guy so I’ll put that on and hopefully that fixes my problem.
update on the car. I got a new FPR and that didn’t help. Pulled the screw out by the fuel filter and turned the car over and no gas went anywhere. Does this mean it’s the fuel pump. I do have spark so that means it’s not the distributor? Any ways the car is going to the shop next week.
This sounds so common to a MFR. My money is set on the fuel relay. I have problems with mine and when it causes me issues I hit it with a scredriver or something. I keep mine hanging down from its mounting location until the car is complete and road ready.
Seriously, next time it happens check to see if your CEL light stays on. Even if the light is not lit, give that MFR a few love taps. It may not work the first time so give it like 3 shots.
You’re chasing your tail because it’s intermittent. It may sound stupid to you, but try this next time it happens.
Aftermarket parts are not uncommon to fail within 6 months, let alone a year. No MFR, no fuel prime to the injectors.
Let us know!
yeah I changed the MFR multiple times and still nothing. I’ve hit it too and still nothing. It’s at the shop right now and they thing it’s something with the ignition. Any ways yeah it also doens’t through any CEL codes. I’ll let ya all know what it is when the shop calls me.
So I took my car to the shop and they told me it was the ignition switch but they don’t fix things like that… hahahaha. Any ways I called the dealer and ordered one $80.00 so not bad. I put one it and went up the canyon on a ride with some friends and no problems. I also drove it to work today. Looks like the problem is fixed. 
Thanks for all the help!!
so another update. The car has been running great for 3 days. I went to the bank for my dad after work and turned the car off. Good thing I met my gf at the bank because the car did’t start after that. I later went back a few hrs after and drove the car home. I am just totally lost on what the problem is. New fuel pump, new distrubitor, new ignition switch, fuel pump. 
Sounds like the same issue I had awhile back, turned out to be fuel switch under the dash, you should hear a mechanical click under dash when the key is turned, if not switch is bad,. Another issue I had was, I would be driving, car would shut off, turned out. The white wire from distributor to ecu was shorten out on distributor housing.:squint:
Fuel switch under the dash? You mean the MFR? There is another relay looking thing that is weird and I was wondering what it was. Is that the fuel switch. yeah it clicks and then when it acts up it doesn’t. It will work for days and then just stop working. It used to just die on me and wouldn’t start till the thing has cooled down. I’ll have to look at the housing when I get home. Do you have a pic from google or anything on what that fuel switch looks like? What part of the dash is it under?
Thanks
So I just googled the switch and yes I have replaced that switch. That is the MFR. There is another one though that is like half the size and I don’t know what it is.
do u have manual or automatic tranny?
It’s a manual
The MFR is the larger box and is typlically brown. It’s possible the solder on the internal top board cracked already. I just pulled mine apart and remelted the solder which fixes the problem 99% of the time. You’ll see a few of the prongs cracking out of the solder and it causes a bad connection. Split the new MFR apart and check the solder.
haha yeah my MFR is 1 and 1/2 years old and when I first started to have this problem I went and got a new one, put it in and that didn’t fix the problem. One of my friends thought because the MFR wasn’t OEM maybe it defaulted so he had a good working one that was OEM and we tried that, still nothing. So yeah the MFR is not the problem.
ok if the MFR is good, check your igniter. here a link, hope it helps out.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/members/images/2904e842-b50f-41af-a513-bdc4bb7ec785.jpg
see the crazy part is, is a year and a half ago I changed the coil, igniter, mfr and fuel pump
so can I check all this stuff now or do I have to wait for the car not to start again?
Sound like a igniter issue, distributor is getting hot. Heat transfer to the igniter, igniter breaking down internally, when distributor is cools down so will the igniter. Remember to install a lot of thermal heat sink between igniter and distributor case. That’s where the heat transfer from. Hope this will help.
