I change my distributor 6 months ago, within 3 months my igniter went bad. Have not had any issue lately. Bought part from o"Reilly auto part.
damn I was hoping it was going to be that. I don’t even know where I should get one. I have a b16a vtec head on it. Does that mean I need to get a civic si igniter then?
Check it now, because u know u have a fault.
Vtech, if I am right, only works at certain rpm, not at start-up.
yeah the car will start right now because it’s cooled down. What one do I buy if I have a b16a head? Do I get one for a civic si like year 99? I might just take it out and then take it to checker or whatever and have them match it up.
IIRC correctly the distributors are the same across all hondas that are the same OBD. Match the part to your OBD, which if it’s a factory ECU and engine harness, is OBD0. Vtec & nonvtec I believe dont have a difference. Try a little research because I’m not 100%
Also, Vtec only engages at Operating Temp and proper Oil Pressure. It’s kickover is 5600RPM I believe, and will only engage in motion.
so I tore in the car today. Found out that the rotter on the distributer was loose because the screw was about to fall out. I tighten it with some lock tight. I just went out to start the car and all the gauges turned on but the second I pushed in the clutch to start it it was dead as if you unplugged the batter from it. I have no clue what to do now. Does anyone here have any clue what it might be? Some pics would be a help.
Thanks
Terminals loose on battery?
+1 on the rotor set screw, I had one fly off on a distributor and caused all kind of damage to the distributor, enough that I had to replace the whole thing haha.
I wiggled the terminals on the battery and nothing. Yeah I got lucky. Mine flew off on the dyno and it just ruined the cap.
When u mean dead, no battery power at all? or no crank. If u have power and no crank, check under the dash,when u depress the clutch pedal,the clutch pedal triggers a switch. Make sure (on clutch pedal) the rubber grommet is there. After time they break off. Hope this will help. 
dead as in no battery power at all
i was about to mention something about the battery connection, i had done alot of work on my integra over a few days not even starting it, just doing prep work for paint etc, i took it for a quick drive and when shifting from 1st to 2nd, it just shut off, i figured i had a vacuum leak or something terrible , ended up that the negative battery terminal was just loose. worked fine, then i had another problem, it wouldnt start a few days later. everytime i turned the key all i could here was this “click clack click clack buzzzz” almost like my starter relay was going off… brought a jumper pack out and pluged it up, battery was only reading 11.2V … jumped it and it worked fine, when it wouldnt start all my accessories would work (lights windows[only down], seatbelts, but they only worked extremely slow as a snail) as soon as the car was jumped, it worked all worked like a charm. double and triple check all your grounds. battery terminals (clean them) make sure your starter wire isnt loose or frayed, make sure your power wire from the fuse box is intact. good luck! 
Just picked it up from the shop today. The negative ground on the batter was loose so he sodered it on. Also my distributor is bent so WTF. hahaha any ways I drove the car home and I’m taking the distributor out and giving it to a friend to look at. He said he has a lot of parts/distributors so he will rebuild it for me and make sure everything is great. If not he will give me one he has. Any ways my buddy also thinks that it’s a fuel pump. 
I have the same problem, im thinking that its the fuel pressure regulator. I took it to the shop to get it replaced and the mechanic said he couldnt get it to act up, he stated it runs fine. But it does act up, i can hear my fuel pump running so idk. It basically does the same thing, it wont start or cuts off then i wait and it fires up
93 da9gs I thought it was my fuel pressure regulator too and replaced it and it wasn’t. I just got mine back from the shop and the guy soddered my battery cables because sometimes the car you would go to turn it on and it would be like as if the battery wasn’t there. As far as the problem I’ve been having the machanic took the distributor off and said it was bent. I have a friend hooking me up on a new one and he told me to drop mine off to him today so he can look at it. Also my buddy said that it sounds like a fuel pump.
Ok cool ill check my cables, i been haveng problems with my batt now that u mention it. sure hope it aint the fuel pump.
Steve, Check that clutch switch to see if its ingaging. When you said they soldered the neg battery terminal. Where exactly? The negative cable goes to the chassy. Is that where they soldered?
My guess is the the starter if it is the original one. My car would start some days and some days it wouldn’t start. When it wouldn’t start there will be nothing like you mentioned. It wouldn’t make a sound. You would think if the starter is bad, it would just click. I replaced the original starter and never had an issue since. I’m the original owner btw.
Try using OEM MFR too. I see you used a NAPA brand.
91kira
When I picked up the car and started it, it sounded like it was good. The cables he soddered were by the actually battery connectors on the battery. I have the quick release ones. I can take a picture when I get off work and load one up for ya if ya want. The starter is fine because it’s fairly new. When I said no sound I mean like nothing as if the battery wasn’t in the car. The car has never not wanted to turn over. Any ways my distributor cap was bent a lot when I took it off. It’s at my buddies house right now.
I am using an OEM MFR. I have 2 brand new napa brands at my house.