Car still runs for a few minutes, then bogs down/loads up and dies.

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
1

Replaced the filter since it was sitting for a few years. Fuel is getting to it fine, same with spark at idle. Mechanically it’s strong.

Thought pressure was building up after a while from a clogged cat, causing it to build too much pressure, and die. While it was gradual, if I sat there and revved it, it would just pop and studder and want to die out.

I replaced the car with a test pipe, turned it on, eventually same thing. From the smell, it looks like gas isn’t getting burned, and/or the spark is off, cause I hear little backfires while I try to rev it.

Could just a large problem be caused by a bad ignitor?

Any help would be great, thanks.

2

Id check to see if one of your injectors are staying open or you have a bad plug,rotor,cap or wires. It don’t sound like the igniter because they tend to just go out all together.

3

Well at first the car runs and ides perfect. It’s just after the cars starts to get up to operating temp is starts acting up, bogs down (little backfires if I press the gas) and dies.

4

Have you checked the ECU for codes? If it runs ok until it gets warmed up then think about the things that affect the engine at that temperature. Could be like a faulty O2 sensor or coolant temp sensor. Also I would check to make sure ignition timing is ok.

5

If it were the ignition timing, it would be bad from the start, not when it warms up.

Bad o2 doesn’t throw a code. There isn’t a CEL. And a bad o2 should only cause a bad idle, not cause it to load up/bog down and die.

Anyone here with some mechanical expertise that can chime in?

Thanks

6

[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2173835]If it were the ignition timing, it would be bad from the start, not when it warms up.

Bad o2 doesn’t throw a code. There isn’t a CEL. And a bad o2 should only cause a bad idle, not cause it to load up/bog down and die.

Anyone here with some mechanical expertise that can chime in?

Thanks[/QUOTE]

I vote for the o2.

7

Look man I’m just trying to help you out. If you’re going to be ignorant then your not going to get answers. It is a very common problem on our cars for a bad O2 sensor to cause hesistation/bogging. I’m not saying for sure that’s your problem but it is a good possibility. Just because the engine light isn’t on doesn’t mean there isn’t a bad sensor. Retarded timing can also make the car bog, yes usually at any temp, but wouldn’t hurt to check it is set to spec. My guess is that if you actually had any mechanical experience you wouldn’t be asking for help. So instead of criticizing you should just try and troubleshoot your problem.

8

The o2 come’s on when the car gets hot and will come on and off every 10/15min to chick the air fuel mix the motor putt out. If the o2 go’s out,sometime you will see a code and sometimes not. I say check and or replace as you can get one from pick and pull and test it out. Like said above,if you ask for help,don’t argue the point if truly you don’t know, cause if you did,this thread wouldn’t of been made. Its got to be something simple. o2,fuel relay,cat or fuel related or a bad ground somewhere.

9

Coil.

10

I didn’t mean to sound ignorant, nor am I, nor did I say you were. I have ‘mechanical’ expertise, just not engine electrical.

I said what I said because the engine is timed perfectly. Once turned on, it idles/revs just fine. Once it starts to warm up, the tach first bounces a little, then slowly just bogs little by little and dies.

Note: When I first got it running after the engine rebuild, it drove around just fine, it never did this. This problem is recent.

The engine, save for an intake and clutch, is 100% stock. Head hasn’t been shaved, stock cams and cam gears, everything was set at TDC, and checked again after a few small runs… and it is still perfectly aligned. I just finished rebuilding a C27A out of a 1990 Legend, and it runs like a top.

I changed out the Ignition Control Module from another distributor I had, and it still dies out. There is no CEL at any time this happens.

Reason why I didn’t think it would be the o2 sensor, is because I didn’t see how it could actually make the car just plain die.

So if a faulty o2 can cause the car to actually die, then I’ll change it out. Hopefully that alleviates the problem.

11

check the ecu for codes. its probably fuel related imo

12

Read his reply before you post a responds. There is no code.

13

[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2174372]I didn’t mean to sound ignorant, nor am I, nor did I say you were. I have ‘mechanical’ expertise, just not engine electrical.

I said what I said because the engine is timed perfectly. Once turned on, it idles/revs just fine. Once it starts to warm up, the tach first bounces a little, then slowly just bogs little by little and dies.

Note: When I first got it running after the engine rebuild, it drove around just fine, it never did this. This problem is recent.

The engine, save for an intake and clutch, is 100% stock. Head hasn’t been shaved, stock cams and cam gears, everything was set at TDC, and checked again after a few small runs… and it is still perfectly aligned. I just finished rebuilding a C27A out of a 1990 Legend, and it runs like a top.

I changed out the Ignition Control Module from another distributor I had, and it still dies out. There is no CEL at any time this happens.

Reason why I didn’t think it would be the o2 sensor, is because I didn’t see how it could actually make the car just plain die.

So if a faulty o2 can cause the car to actually die, then I’ll change it out. Hopefully that alleviates the problem.[/QUOTE]

Change your coil or you ignoring me?

14

[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2174372]I didn’t mean to sound ignorant, nor am I, nor did I say you were. I have ‘mechanical’ expertise, just not engine electrical.

I said what I said because the engine is timed perfectly. Once turned on, it idles/revs just fine. Once it starts to warm up, the tach first bounces a little, then slowly just bogs little by little and dies.

Note: When I first got it running after the engine rebuild, it drove around just fine, it never did this. This problem is recent.

The engine, save for an intake and clutch, is 100% stock. Head hasn’t been shaved, stock cams and cam gears, everything was set at TDC, and checked again after a few small runs… and it is still perfectly aligned. I just finished rebuilding a C27A out of a 1990 Legend, and it runs like a top.

I changed out the Ignition Control Module from another distributor I had, and it still dies out. There is no CEL at any time this happens.

Reason why I didn’t think it would be the o2 sensor, is because I didn’t see how it could actually make the car just plain die.

So if a faulty o2 can cause the car to actually die, then I’ll change it out. Hopefully that alleviates the problem.[/QUOTE]

Now that you’ve expanded on the problem a bit I would say no the O2 sensor wouldn’t cause it to stall, just bog. When I said timing I meant more ignition timing than valve timing, like for some reason if it was way off. But again, shouldn’t really make it full out die. Since there are no codes it’s unlikely a sensor but that’s still a possibility. What happens after it stalls out? Can you restart it right away or does it have to cool off? If it doesn’t restart right away and just cranks, check for fuel and spark.

15

No, I’m not. Maybe I haven’t got the chance to change it yet?.. Hmm.

I’ll try the coil out of my other distributor, see if that works. Though a question. Since I made it clear that this doesn’t happen till it warms up, wouldn’t a bad coil make it bad from the start?

Also, wouldn’t bad ignition timing also make the idle bad from the start? My dist. is right in the middle, which should be fine considering the stock-ness of my engine.

And yes, I can start it again after it dies. Reason why I’m trying to figure things out before I just start randomly replacing parts, is because I don’t have much spare cash right now, and well… just replacing things without knowing what the problem can be seems pointless. And it’s getting spark, and fuel. Pulled each plug, all get spark, and plenty. And it’s getting fuel.

16

This is a long shot but also check the ignition switch as it might be going out. My car would start to bog out then die and it was the switch. I have a DIY on how to fix/clean it so look in to it. Just a shot:wave:

17

If you’re on the factory distributor, that could be the culprit. A worthy investment…
My distributor experience: car would drive for a few blocks then stall while driving. It would start up again, drive for a while then die again. Dist King has a lifetime warranty - it was recommended by many. Just a suggestion…
BTW: a symptom when my ignition switch went - the battery shorted - clock & radio reset to default.

18

Since you say it only happens when warm I doubt its a bad coil. They usually just fail all together regardless of engine temp. If you have a spare one you could try swapping it but I can’t see that being the issue. What about idle speed? You said it sort of bounces before it dies. It could be something that controls idle speed. Try disconnecting the IACV and see if it still stalls. Also you could try turning up the idle speed with the screw in the throttle body.

19

Well before it dies out, the idle is spot on, and smooth as silk. Car will run for like 5 minutes just sitting still till it starts to happen.

First it’s just the tach bouncing about 200-400rpms or so, really not all that much. When it does it though, I don’t hear it in the engine, it’s just the tach itself bouncing.

Throttle body is also all stock, never been tampered with.

IACV seemed fine when I took it off and examined it before I put it on. I can take it off and clean it out anyway though.

And like I said, till it warms up it’s perfect, no problems. Smooth and strong idle, etc.

OH! Also, before it started dieing all together, it was driving just fine, but out of no where, the tach needle just started jumping to max, then zero, and all around till I slowed down some, and then it seemed to go back to normal.

20

[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2174454]No, I’m not. Maybe I haven’t got the chance to change it yet?.. Hmm.

I’ll try the coil out of my other distributor, see if that works. Though a question. Since I made it clear that this doesn’t happen till it warms up, wouldn’t a bad coil make it bad from the start?

Also, wouldn’t bad ignition timing also make the idle bad from the start? My dist. is right in the middle, which should be fine considering the stock-ness of my engine.

And yes, I can start it again after it dies. Reason why I’m trying to figure things out before I just start randomly replacing parts, is because I don’t have much spare cash right now, and well… just replacing things without knowing what the problem can be seems pointless. And it’s getting spark, and fuel. Pulled each plug, all get spark, and plenty. And it’s getting fuel.[/QUOTE]

I just fixed an EK with the exact same problem. When the coil warms up it fails.
Coils throw ZERO codes.
Quit looking into other shit, trust me here.