[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2174454]No, I’m not. Maybe I haven’t got the chance to change it yet?.. Hmm.
I’ll try the coil out of my other distributor, see if that works. Though a question. Since I made it clear that this doesn’t happen till it warms up, wouldn’t a bad coil make it bad from the start?
Also, wouldn’t bad ignition timing also make the idle bad from the start? My dist. is right in the middle, which should be fine considering the stock-ness of my engine.
And yes, I can start it again after it dies. Reason why I’m trying to figure things out before I just start randomly replacing parts, is because I don’t have much spare cash right now, and well… just replacing things without knowing what the problem can be seems pointless. And it’s getting spark, and fuel. Pulled each plug, all get spark, and plenty. And it’s getting fuel.[/QUOTE]
At first I thought it was the coil, so I swapped that out, as well as pulled the plugs to check their condition.
Plugs were fine, swapped the coil with the one from my other dist… still nothing.
Pulled the fuel bleeder screw… BAM! No fuel pressure. No idea why it would just stop. Then I noticed there’s no fuel pump fuse in our cars. (BRILLIANT!) But none of the fuses are burnt out.
Took off the fuel cap, big pressure release, and I know there’s gas in it, little under a 1/4 or so.
Checked to hear if the main relay clicked it’s 3 times, and not even once from what I could hear. I don’t hear the second click when the check engine light is supposed to go off once the key is in the ‘ON’ position. Also the CEL doesn’t go off once it’s in the on position either.
I read the Main Relay’s are prone to going bad in our cars. It probably doesn’t help that mine is the original 20 year old relay. Then to make matters for it worse, I have solid torque mounts, haha. So the solder cracks are probably screwed.
Well I just re-soldered just about all of 'em. Looked at each of them with a x10 magnifying glass.
Put it in just a few minutes ago, works like a charm, started right up.
However, I’m back to my original problem. After the needle gets about a 1/4 way of the way up, the CEL came on, could have been sooner, but I was in the garage. Well I tried to see if it would rev, and like before, it just bogged down to very low rpm’s, bounced around, then popped and backfired a little. It didn’t really kill it, once I let off, it just idled. But I figure like before, it will just slowly die out.
I pulled the ECU cover, got a cel. 4 long and 3 short, 43 correct? If so, that’s a fuel delivery system problem. Since it starts fine at first, I’d assume it’s not the pump since it won’t get hot, where as the injectors… could it be them? I have a spare set I could try out.
[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2175871]Well I just re-soldered just about all of 'em. Looked at each of them with a x10 magnifying glass.
Put it in just a few minutes ago, works like a charm, started right up.
However, I’m back to my original problem. After the needle gets about a 1/4 way of the way up, the CEL came on, could have been sooner, but I was in the garage. Well I tried to see if it would rev, and like before, it just bogged down to very low rpm’s, bounced around, then popped and backfired a little. It didn’t really kill it, once I let off, it just idled. But I figure like before, it will just slowly die out.
I pulled the ECU cover, got a cel. 4 long and 3 short, 43 correct? If so, that’s a fuel delivery system problem. Since it starts fine at first, I’d assume it’s not the pump since it won’t get hot, where as the injectors… could it be them? I have a spare set I could try out.[/QUOTE]
injectors might be flooding out the motor. Id replace just to see if its the problem.
Would they do that only when it starts getting warm? Because that’s when it does it.
And the o2 that’s on the car was on it when I got it, almost 7 years ago or so. And the car was sitting for a long, long time.
I already replaced the fuel filter a little while back, once I got it running again. I also have a spare ECU (the one that was originally in the car, though nothing is wrong with it)
Also, if the injectors were flooding out the engine, why would it be getting those backfires?
A lot of people on here seem to think that one of the more common fixes, is changing the o2.
Oh, and I just also noticed that the return line from the fuel rail is a bit, crimped. Perhaps it’s building up too much pressure?
[QUOTE=Boosted_90Teg;2175879]Would they do that only when it starts getting warm? Because that’s when it does it.
And the o2 that’s on the car was on it when I got it, almost 7 years ago or so. And the car was sitting for a long, long time.
I already replaced the fuel filter a little while back, once I got it running again. I also have a spare ECU (the one that was originally in the car, though nothing is wrong with it)
Also, if the injectors were flooding out the engine, why would it be getting those backfires?
A lot of people on here seem to think that one of the more common fixes, is changing the o2.
Oh, and I just also noticed that the return line from the fuel rail is a bit, crimped. Perhaps it’s building up too much pressure?[/QUOTE]
The car will backfires cause the cylinder/s that are flooding is trying to fire but can’t cause the plugs are fowled. I would also disconnect the cat and see if the car will run. The hose can also be a problem but unlikely the case as the car runs good tell hot. Check the oil and see if it smells like gas at all. Also replace the O2 but do everything one at a time to point out the problem.
No cat, test pipe. Before this problem a few months ago, right after I got it running again, I was driving it around with out any major problems. I’m just gonna replace the o2. It’s only 20 dollars, so might as well.
Not to jack your thread but. I replaced the coil, ign module, spark plugs, cap and rotor, re-solder the main fuel relay, and the infamous O2 sensor and I have the same problem too. Does timing has anything to do with it? I mean every time you take out your distributor, don’t you have to time it after you install it? I mean :wtf:
How much gas do you have in the tank? This happened to my brothers CRX after he built his motor and his gas gauge was wrong. His FP was low and it turned out he didn’t have enough gas in the car lol. He added two gallons and drives perfect now. He could start the car and rev the car but when he drove it, the car would start to bog down and stall. It would fire back up but stall. Then he started loosing fuel pressure. Might be worth a shot if you are low on gas.
just a long shot…but u could try checking your temp sensor. If u have a digital meter u can check the resistance cold and watch it decrease as it gets hot. Definitely something that could be checked without having to buy a new part…u might even have one laying around.
Replaced the o2 and stuck back in my original ECU. Don’t get the error 43 code from the ECU LED any more, but the problem is still the same.
Car has gas, the level does work. Once it cools down, I can turn it right back on with no problems.
When it first starts going bad, if I slightly rev it, it just bounces and pops, but if I floor it, it hesitates at first, then just goes right up to red line.
Again, except for an intake, the engine is all stock, and perfectly timed, not to mention timing would make it bad from the get to, not when it gets warm.
Temp sensor is in the side of the head by the distributor. There is a single wire sensor near it which is 4 the temp gauge. My 91 has a green wire and a red wire with a white stripe. Unplug the connector and stick the ohmmeter on the terminals of the sensor itself. At 104 degrees Farenheit it should have 1000 ohms resistance, thats 1K ohm or 1 kilo ohm. The resistance should decrease continually as the engine warms up.
Now that i think about it, the engine might not run with it unplugged. So u would try to unplug it after the engine is running or just test it with the engine off.
I got a lot of spares, so I can just try another one, though I don’t think that would cause the flooding, cause I’m pretty sure that’s exactly what it’s doing once it warms up. Plus the little puddle of black, gas smelling like liquid is kind of a good indication.
…Head gasket is fine. Probably just going to take it to a local dealer in town, have them figure out what it is, then I’ll just fix it myself.
I just came from my and I replaced the main fuel relay… Goes on, does idles, and after I rev it to 5000rpms it starts to fluctuate. From 5000-0 rpms. after 7-10 mins the car dies. But I notice the temp gauge it’s not on the middle (slightly before middle) it’s lower :hmm:. Also when I try to turn it on, it was cranking. So I took a screwdriver put it on plug wire #1 and crank the car… no spark then I let it cool down for a min then start it back up. At that time there was sparks. Remember I bought brand new ignition module, New coil, cap and rotor w/ iridium spark plug(ngk). Anybody thinks it’s just the temp sensor? Please explain why this is happening?
