Car still runs for a few minutes, then bogs down/loads up and dies.

Well, a bit of an update. Friend and I replaced a few things, changed out the throttle body for another one, probably had nothing to do with my problem… but oh well. Replaced the injectors with the spares, and replaced the two sensors on the distributor side of the head.

Turned it on, waited for it to warm up, and FINALLY it didn’t flood itself out, so it probably was in injector or two… or something, lol.

Anyway, took it for a drive, everything was fine, did some hard pulls, not problem, then the CEL popped on for a second, so I stopped, turned it off/on, and the light was gone.
Drove away like normal, then put my foot into it, still no problems… however.

Now the tach needle started to bounce a little, and if I try to give it decent throttle, it just won’t rev. It just sort of… well it feels like a limiter of sorts. But I can drive it around just fine as long as I don’t floor it.

A while back I replaced the coil and ignitor with an extra, albeit used, set and probably high mileage ones at that, and it seemed fine then… but could those still be bad? Is a brand new, complete distributor in my plans now?

Well, any help would be appreciated as always, thanks.

Glad to here you got the original problem fixed. It was probably one of the injectors or the coolant temp sensor it sounds like you changed. As far as your new problem, were you able to get any codes when the light came on? My guess is you are correct it is ignition related. If your distributor is old and worn then a new distributor would certainly be a good idea. The other small possibilty is that the throttle position sensor in the throttle body you put on is faulty. You can test it but if you have the old one I would put it on and try it. If it fixes it, great. If not, time for a new distributor.

Well the TPS sensor wasn’t my first idea of what could be causing the problem, I mean after all, it was driving just fine, no problems, until I drove for a little while. When the CEL did come on though, I checked it at home, and it was 43 again, no idea why. =\

Any input anyone? before the light, the tach started to bounce a little, then CEL. Turned it off/on, then no problems, till a little while later, when I couldn’t go WOT, only partial. It will go to redline under partial throttle, but if I just open it up, it feels like it’s getting fuel cut and just won’t rev higher.

Ideas?

I’m starting to think you have a vaccum leak somewhere.
I bet its the intake gasket or a gasket to a sensor on it.
Get it started again and if you have starter spray,spray it around the hoses and intake. You will no if there’s a leak cause the car will want to die.
“EDIT” God I’m dumb,lol use throttle body cleaner not starter spray. Sorry OP

There’s no leaks, checked.

But something has been bothering me, my coolant temps, according to the gauge at least, are just fine. But my valve cover, distributor, and coolant hoses seem to be really hot. I mean like can’t leave your hand on them, hot.

Considering the coil and ignitor I stuck inside my distributor weren’t new, just some other old ones I had in another dist… could the heat on it cause the car to go into some sort of “limp mode”?

Its a possibility,hows the Tstat?

Again, thermostat is fine, otherwise engine temps on the gauge would start spiking, and they don’t. Though it could just also be the paint I painted the VC with, perhaps it just holds more heat in, dunno…
shrugs

It is normal for the engine to get to hot to touch. If the coolant gauge is reading near the middle I doubt it’s overheating. It wouldn’t cause it to bog out either. I think it’s still possible that it’s a faulty ignition part but it could be fuel related. Above you said the code you pulled was a 43? Are you still getting a check engine light with the same code? Disregard the reply about the TPS, since code 43 is unrelated. If you’re still getting that code then troubleshoot it. It could be the spare injectors you put on are no good. Also the fuel pump could be on it’s way out. If you can, check fuel pressure.

Well the spares were the originals I think, and the car ran fine with them in for a while, and still do. Idle is fine, driving is fine, it’s just when you put your foot down that it won’t rev higher and just sort of surges as if it’s not getting fuel or spark. But the CEL in the dash isn’t always on, but flashes on the ECU.

I couldn’t imagine a bad IACV causing this problem. And I wish I had cash I could just throw at this, but I don’t. =\ So I have to try to figure these out with whatever help I can get.

I did re-solder the main relay a little while back, perhaps there’s a problem there?

Ok so it’s only when you put your foot down is that while driving or will it do it sitting still too? When the ECU flashes can you get a code out of it? I doubt the IACV would cause this problem if it only does it under load, and the main relay should not have anything to do with it. Either it’s a sensor, ignition part, or not enough fuel. The trick is going to be narrowing it down. If it throws a code that would narrow it down a lot. If not well you’ll have to start testing components since you don’t want to throw parts at it. If you have a multimeter and a fuel pressure gauge you should be able to narrow it down. Just a shot in the dark, try disconnecting the plug to the TPS and see if the problem is still there. Sometimes the contacts in the sensor wear out and cause a deadspot. Also you could pull the vacuum line off the pressure regulator to bump up the fuel preesure a bit. If you are still having trouble or don’t have the tools to test it then it might be a good idea to take it to a shop. They’ll probably only charge an hour or two to diagnose it and then if you wanted you could fix it.

Thought I stated it before, guess I forgot, but yea, I did get a CEL when I took that drive, so I came home, and read what it was, and Code 43.

I found out it was the icu that went out. I replace it with a new one and it’s good to go.