[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2040647]Yes the 100% full-proof way around the problem is to wait about 5 mins (maybe less but I haven’t tried cause I don’t want to wait another 5 mins), then it will start with no problem.
The ignitor housing box you mean the distributor cap and their contacts for wear and tear or cracks? I’ll look for your link to your sale.[/QUOTE]
ok, but let us know if u hear the fuel pump priming. the lights don’t matter for squat. all that matters is that when u put the key to “on” where all the dash lights come on… u should hear 2 beeps, then a loud click coming from the dash area (is really at the knee panel tho). if u hear that click u should be good. also when u do put it to the “on” position u should also hear the fuel pump priming from the rear of the car (u can hear it even while sitting in the driver seat). if u can hear those things then ur mfr are good. so u NEED to confirm those 2 things. the click, and the fuel pump priming
the ignitor box is within distributor under the cap and slightly above the rotor. its the only black box shaped thing in there. 2 wires are screwed to it. and the there r like 4 screws (i think) holding the ignitor box in place. inspect the whole thing for cracks.
I think you have your terminology mixed up just a bit. What you’re describing is the ignition coil, and yes it should be inspected for cracks, ect… The ignitor (or Ignition Control Module) is below the coil (mine is silver in color) and has 3 spade connectors on the top and one on the side. Its held in by two small phillips head screws.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2040664]ok, but let us know if u hear the fuel pump priming. the lights don’t matter for squat. all that matters is that when u put the key to “on” where all the dash lights come on… u should hear 2 beeps, then a loud click coming from the dash area (is really at the knee panel tho). if u hear that click u should be good. also when u do put it to the “on” position u should also hear the fuel pump priming from the rear of the car (u can hear it even while sitting in the driver seat). if u can hear those things then ur mfr are good. so u NEED to confirm those 2 things. the click, and the fuel pump priming
the ignitor box is within distributor under the cap and slightly above the rotor. its the only black box shaped thing in there. 2 wires are screwed to it. and the there r like 4 screws (i think) holding the ignitor box in place. inspect the whole thing for cracks.[/QUOTE]
So this morning I put the key to the “2” position for the lights to come on the dashboard (position “1” I don’t hear anything really), I do hear 3 beeps but really no click. I listened pretty carefully. Also I’m not sure what the fuel pump priming will sound like but after the 3 beeps I don’t really hear anything other than silence.:shrug:
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2040444]Well my issue is happening quite often now, I’ll tell you what happened this past weekend on a road trip to Lake Tahoe, and I’ll start checking things out next weekend.
While at the car wash Friday morning it stalled on me right away after I started it, so I did the key in position 2? where the dashboard lights come on, then fired it up and it started fine.
Fast fwd later that afternoon after driving for about 3 hours I stopped to get gas, then when I was ready to go I started the car and it stalled right away. So I tried the same thing I did that morning but this time it wasn’t working (I was like FUK!), so I tried a few more times and still it just kept turning over without starting. Then during one of the tries the car didn’t even turnover, meaning I turned the key and nothing happened (this wasn’t the first time this happened but the first time in a few weeks). So I resorted to just waiting 5 mins, and it started up just fine.
It’s been fine since but I only drove the car back from Lake Tahoe today and hitched rides the whole weekend from buddies.[/QUOTE]
it sounds like a distributor problem if you have a known good ignitor swap it in and see how that handles or if you have a known good distributor swap that in also check the cap and rotor if it looks like it needs replacement then do so it never hurts make sure your wires are good to
its all good man. i almost went into the honda pact program myself to become a dealer tech considering how much i already knew and considering how many recommendations i have. but from seeing my friends at work, and hearing how much bs they get (from service manager barking up their ass), its just not my style and doesn’t fit me. working for honda corp. would be a lil better suited for me, but its a bit harder to get in there. i have a few friends working there tho and they make pretty good money.
i’m not the best and i surely can’t fix everything, but if it has something to do with a da, i’m usually on it. it sucks tho regarding dealer techs tho, so many of my classmates or old friends that have been in the dealers since like in the 90s or early 2000’s, have lost their jobs or moved on. things are just slowing down for dealers.
but back on track.
on that 3rd beep, u should hear a pretty decently loud CLICK (more of tock sound tho). the priming is heard during the first 3 seconds of turning to the key to position 2. and u should hear it EVERY TIME U put the key to position 2. if u can’t hear it well, have someone else put the key from off to position 2 for u. while they do that many times, put ur head near the gas tank, whether in the trunk area, or backseat, or next to the fuel fill door, and remove the gas cap. either way u’ll know what it is when u hear it. its like a low “BURRRRRRR” sound. and happens everytime that person puts it into position 2.
on that 3rd beep, u should hear a pretty decently loud CLICK (more of tock sound tho). the priming is heard during the first 3 seconds of turning to the key to position 2. and u should hear it EVERY TIME U put the key to position 2. if u can’t hear it well, have someone else put the key from off to position 2 for u. while they do that many times, put ur head near the gas tank, whether in the trunk area, or backseat, or next to the fuel fill door, and remove the gas cap. either way u’ll know what it is when u hear it. its like a low “BURRRRRRR” sound. and happens everytime that person puts it into position 2.
let us know.[/QUOTE]
Ok I just checked again…I get 5 beeps and on the third beep I do hear a click, so that means the MFR is good?
As far as the fuel pump priming I do hear a low “buuuuuur” sound you described every time my buddy put the ignition to the 2 position. I stuck my ear by the gas tank filler with the gas cap off. So does that mean my fuel pump is good?
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2040954]Ok I just checked again…I get 5 beeps and on the third beep I do hear a click, so that means the MFR is good?
As far as the fuel pump priming I do hear a low “buuuuuur” sound you described every time my buddy put the ignition to the 2 position. I stuck my ear by the gas tank filler with the gas cap off. So does that mean my fuel pump is good?
I’ll check the distributor cap tomorrow.[/QUOTE]
yup that means ur mfr and fuel pump seem ok.
probably is ur distributor then. u gotta check ur distributor ignition coil. the black box that has 2 wires screwed to it.
I’m just going to replace the distributor cap + rotor from Napa Auto parts…they mentioned a rotor for $29 versus the $15, the $29 has a harder copper tip and won’t wear out as quick and makes better contact.
Are you guys aware of the different rotors available for our distributors?
Napa has the same price as www.acuraoemparts.com, not sure if they are OEM though.
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2041663]I’m just going to replace the distributor cap + rotor from Napa Auto parts…they mentioned a rotor for $29 versus the $15, the $29 has a harder copper tip and won’t wear out as quick and makes better contact.
Are you guys aware of the different rotors available for our distributors?
Napa has the same price as www.acuraoemparts.com, not sure if they are OEM though.[/QUOTE]
a rotor won’t make a difference if the ignition coil is bad.
Say I’d like to thank you guys for all the advice up to this point, really helps a lot.[/QUOTE]
haha. i don’t even remember seeing #5 on most of the distributors i’ve touched lately and i just sold 2 this week. u might have to if urs has it. its no big deal to remove the rotor tho. just be careful and DO NOT break that screw in there. i even put the TINIEST amount of anti-seize on some just to keep that thing from sticking when removing it in the future. but i know lots of others that don’t know how to control themselves from using anti-seize. but just remove the rotor, and that stupid lil leak guard if it has it, and inspect the coil. its not difficult, and takes like 5min to get the cap off and inspect it.
Well I took the entire distributor off, the cap looks crack free
I sanded the rotor contact a bit cause here’s what it looked like:
I couldn’t get the damn rotor off because the screw looks like it is already slightly stripped :bang:
So I sanded down the contacts on the cap and the contact on the rotor and put everything back together…now the fukin car won’t start… :gunright: I mean the engine cranks but it’s not starting, tried the ol ignition in the position 2 trick, still didn’t work. UGH!!!
Could I have sanded the contacts down too much and now they are not making a spark??? HELP!!! :argh: Another thing I thought of is did I fuk up the timing? I mean I put the distributor back exactly the same way I took it out, although I can’t guarantee the rotor was pointing in the same direction, I know it’s keyed so distributor housing can go back exactly but the rotor can be facing 180 degrees from where it was when I removed it? Is this correct?
I’m gonna troubleshoot it more tomorrow it’s just too late tonight
Am I Sheet out of luck and might as well buy a new cap???
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2041839]Well I took the entire distributor off, the cap looks crack free
I sanded the rotor contact a bit cause here’s what it looked like:
I couldn’t get the damn rotor off because the screw looks like it is already slightly stripped :bang:
So I sanded down the contacts on the cap and the contact on the rotor and put everything back together…now the fukin car won’t start… :gunright: I mean the engine cranks but it’s not starting, tried the ol ignition in the position 2 trick, still didn’t work. UGH!!!
Could I have sanded the contacts down too much and now they are not making a spark??? HELP!!! :argh: Another thing I thought of is did I fuk up the timing? I mean I put the distributor back exactly the same way I took it out, although I can’t guarantee the rotor was pointing in the same direction, I know it’s keyed so distributor housing can go back exactly but the rotor can be facing 180 degrees from where it was when I removed it? Is this correct?
I’m gonna troubleshoot it more tomorrow it’s just too late tonight
Am I Sheet out of luck and might as well buy a new cap???[/QUOTE]
i dunno about the 92-93 cap n rotor, but the rotor should only be able to go on 1 way. just like how it is with the end that pops into the camshafts. regarding u sanding it, u’re only suppose to scratch it up… if u sanded it like a madman then u obviously weren’t paying attention or didn’t know how to do this. we all make mistakes tho. but regarding it not starting, try advancing the distributor a lil bit. loosen the 3 bolts enough for u to be able to turn the distributor. face it from the passenger fender, and rotate it counter clockwise a tad bit. the washer on the top bolt should be covering that hole that it is in on the left side… just turned enough to where the gap disappears is usually about right. let us know how that works
if u want to remove that screw which i highly suggest u replace the cap n rotor cuz that screw sucks ass, is u get that squared looking bit… it comes in most screwdriver multi bit sets. its a square, and it fits right into that screw head. that should give u all that is necessary to remove that screw, and replace it. u need tools tho man, that tool is very handy and is used a lot if u have to fix other ppl’s mistakes.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2042007]i dunno about the 92-93 cap n rotor, but the rotor should only be able to go on 1 way. just like how it is with the end that pops into the camshafts. regarding u sanding it, u’re only suppose to scratch it up… if u sanded it like a madman then u obviously weren’t paying attention or didn’t know how to do this. we all make mistakes tho. but regarding it not starting, try advancing the distributor a lil bit. loosen the 3 bolts enough for u to be able to turn the distributor. face it from the passenger fender, and rotate it counter clockwise a tad bit. the washer on the top bolt should be covering that hole that it is in on the left side… just turned enough to where the gap disappears is usually about right. let us know how that works
if u want to remove that screw which i highly suggest u replace the cap n rotor cuz that screw sucks ass, is u get that squared looking bit… it comes in most screwdriver multi bit sets. its a square, and it fits right into that screw head. that should give u all that is necessary to remove that screw, and replace it. u need tools tho man, that tool is very handy and is used a lot if u have to fix other ppl’s mistakes.[/QUOTE]
I’m gonna tackle this problem in a few hours…when I loosen the distributor and turn it counter-clockwise, do I re-tighten it again or try to start the car with the distributor loose in case I still need to adjust it? The camshaft end is what I’m talking about, it’s keyed there but does it matter what direction the rotor was facing when I removed the distributor versus the direction it’s facing now? If I sanded too much off the rotor and cap will this be the result, the engine not starting but just cranking? Sometimes one learns the hardway.
Regarding the screw head…I’ve got a few multi-bit screwdriver sets and I tried a few of the philip bits I had for fit ment but each one slipped a bit so I didn’t want to try any further. Do you have a pic of the square bit you mentioned? I was afraid I might have to use an “ez-out” bit to get that screw out. I am going to replace it with a hex bolt which I did to another Integra I owned before.
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2042161]I’m gonna tackle this problem in a few hours…when I loosen the distributor and turn it counter-clockwise, do I re-tighten it again or try to start the car with the distributor loose in case I still need to adjust it? The camshaft end is what I’m talking about, it’s keyed there but does it matter what direction the rotor was facing when I removed the distributor versus the direction it’s facing now? If I sanded too much off the rotor and cap will this be the result, the engine not starting but just cranking? Sometimes one learns the hardway.
Regarding the screw head…I’ve got a few multi-bit screwdriver sets and I tried a few of the philip bits I had for fit ment but each one slipped a bit so I didn’t want to try any further. Do you have a pic of the square bit you mentioned? I was afraid I might have to use an “ez-out” bit to get that screw out. I am going to replace it with a hex bolt which I did to another Integra I owned before.[/QUOTE]
well regarding the rotor and the distributor AGAIN. listen carefully. the rotor can only go in ONE WAY. U CANNOT PUT THE ROTOR 180 DEGREES THE WRONG WAY. with that it relates with the keyed end of that goes into the camshaft. IT CAN ONLY GO IN 1 WAY!!!
regarding the screwdriver bit that is squared. i’ll take a pic of the one that i have and send it to u.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2042167]well regarding the rotor and the distributor AGAIN. listen carefully. the rotor can only go in ONE WAY. U CANNOT PUT THE ROTOR 180 DEGREES THE WRONG WAY. with that it relates with the keyed end of that goes into the camshaft. IT CAN ONLY GO IN 1 WAY!!!
regarding the screwdriver bit that is squared. i’ll take a pic of the one that i have and send it to u.[/QUOTE]
Ok, adjusted the distributor counter-clockwise as you said, the top bolt is just covering the hole on the left side. But it’s still just cranking and not starting.
