yes… move it again…
Hey wat about getting a mechanic to fix your car cause it looks like your not doing something right !!!
I might have to if I can’t get this thing to idle…
i aint read the whole thread but wat is going on wit you car i maybe can help you out
Got the distributor back in the correct way where I think #1 cylinder is firing at TDC, but the idle is super rough and eventually dies. I wanted to confirm that moving the distributor towards the firewall means advancing the timing and moving it towards the front of the car means retarding the timing. I’m trying to get the car to hold a steady idle so I can get a timing gun and check the timing properly.
Another question, how can I check that the engine is at TDC? I want to see which spark plug the rotor is on during this time, at least it will eliminate that question.
Yes, towards the firewall is advance and toward the radiator is retard. If it’s starting and running, regardless of how rough the idle, the rotor is pointed in the right direction. Did you at any time take the plug wires off the distributor cap? If so, check the firing order is correct. It should be (starting at 7 o’clock on the distributor) 1 3 4 2 (corrected). Here’s a good site for reference: Firing order on Rywire Having them in the wrong order will make your engine spit, sputter, backfire, idle bad, ect…
Ok thanks…I did take the plugs off the distributor but I wrote down which wire went where, btw your firing order of 1 4 3 2 is not the same as the diagram you included, there it would be 1 3 4 2, right? I’ll do more troubleshooting tonight when I get home…this is turning out to be an epic thread huh…and it all started from the damn MFR discussion!!!
oops. Yes. 1 3 4 2, sorry about the dyslexia. :rockon:
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/7.html or else I’ll die!!!
hahahahha i’m in so much of a rush i gotta apologize again to u azzuribaggio. when i was stating earlier about the counter clockwise n shit. now i know what u mean. i guess i was mistated what i meant earlier.
but yeah counter clockwise to advance it… which helps starting… if u make that gap on the left of the picture disappear, that should get u around 18 degrees btdc. what i should of said earlier was… move it so that the bolt/washer literally makes it so there is no gap on the left side, NOT move the distributor counterclockwise cuz yes u were right it would increase the gap. so i should’ve said counterclockwise. sometimes i rush things and don’t state it right. so my bad 
i fixed my image from earlier on page 5. so my bad. if anything tho… i suggest that u remove the distributor again… REMEMBER where the rotor is pointing… take off the cap… then go ahead and remove that rotor. once u do that inspect the coil. after that let us know how it goes.
Well advanced the timing a bit and it took some time but I finally got her to kick in and idle, then I moved the distributor a bit more center to stabilize the idle. Although I think I need a timing gun to make sure it’s correct because I took her for a spin and the acceleration felt a bit boggy where it wasn’t before.
At least I got her to start!
Thanks everyone.
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2042668]Well advanced the timing a bit and it took some time but I finally got her to kick in and idle, then I moved the distributor a bit more center to stabilize the idle. Although I think I need a timing gun to make sure it’s correct because I took her for a spin and the acceleration felt a bit boggy where it wasn’t before.
At least I got her to start!
Thanks everyone.[/QUOTE]
no problem. just make sure u verify whether ur coil is cracked or not. after u do, hopefully its not cracked up n stuff (take pics tho please)… then put it back together and get it timed. also check the condition of ur spark plugs too.
I think I’m gonna to a full replacement this or next weekend of the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor (and ignition coil if needed) once I figure out how to remove the damn screw from the distributor shaft.
well thats why i showed u that lil tool. mine came in a handy lil cheap ass black n decker set. were a bunch of bits part of an electric screwdriver. u can literally find it at home depot, lowe’s, etc.
Ok took the fukin rotor screw out using an easy-out tool, I’ replaced it with an Allen-head screw and some blue loctite. Got a new distributor cap and rotor from the stealer as well…$50 total.
Here is a picture of the old rotor:
And here is how the inside of the distributor looks, no cracks on any of the plastic pieces…
So after I replace the spark plug and spark plug wires and I still get the dreaded stalling and not starting problem where can I investigate next?
I need to double-check the timing since I’m feeling a slight bog when I accelerate, any Norcal guys willing to let me use their timing light?
BTW, what spark plugs do you guys recommend? The stealer said NGK platinum at like $20 a pop!!!
well u are getting there man. first off… i never payed attention whether u are obd1 or zero… and u are obd1. to time it u will need to jump the service connector, there is a write up or something in the teg tips on how specifically to time it. regarding the spark plugs, NO do not buy their wacked ass ngk platinums. just get some plain ass ngk’s, v-power ones are good too. btw, they are usually only like $2 a piece.
regarding the blue loctite… who advised u to use it? u know that blue loctite is pretty strong right? its weaker than red, but for a tiny ass screw like that, u didn’t need any. and if u really wanted to use some, u should’ve used purple. all i can say is i hope u are able to remove that thing safely later down the road.
ur distributor seems to have a lot of powdered rust stuff all over the place. that ain’t exactly a good sign. ur cap n rotor did come with a new cap gasket right? i still think u have an issue with ur distributor, but it is just holding u over for now. but maybe after doing a lil more maintenance and getting it timed, maybe u’ll have a lil more luck.
let us know how it goes.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2042901]well u are getting there man. first off… i never payed attention whether u are obd1 or zero… and u are obd1. to time it u will need to jump the service connector, there is a write up or something in the teg tips on how specifically to time it. regarding the spark plugs, NO do not buy their wacked ass ngk platinums. just get some plain ass ngk’s, v-power ones are good too. btw, they are usually only like $2 a piece.
regarding the blue loctite… who advised u to use it? u know that blue loctite is pretty strong right? its weaker than red, but for a tiny ass screw like that, u didn’t need any. and if u really wanted to use some, u should’ve used purple. all i can say is i hope u are able to remove that thing safely later down the road.
ur distributor seems to have a lot of powdered rust stuff all over the place. that ain’t exactly a good sign. ur cap n rotor did come with a new cap gasket right? i still think u have an issue with ur distributor, but it is just holding u over for now. but maybe after doing a lil more maintenance and getting it timed, maybe u’ll have a lil more luck.
let us know how it goes.[/QUOTE]
Yup I know about jumping the service connector near the passenger side kick board.
Regarding the loctite, I just used like two tiny drops on one side. I don’t want to run the risk of having that allen-head screw back out into the distributor. I didn’t know there was a purple, oh well I chose blue because it’s removal versus red.
I did replace the distributor cap gasket, the other one looked like it was pinched on one side and didn’t sit flush in the channel. The new one should make the distributor moisture free. Is the powdered dust do to small amounts of moisture getting in there and rusting everything out due to the gasket kink?
Well today when I went to fill up the car (almost empty but the reserve light hadn’t come on yet), it stalled when I tried to start it. Tried to start it right away but the engine just kept cranking, I tried the position two thingie and it didn’t work…so I sat for about 2-3 minutes and it started up again. I get this symptom when the gas tank is low (plus it was hot tonight low 80’s), could it be some vapor lock crap or something?
Defiantly slight bogging throughout all the gears. more noticeable up till 2500 rpms. Timing?
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2042923]Yup I know about jumping the service connector near the passenger side kick board.
Regarding the loctite, I just used like two tiny drops on one side. I don’t want to run the risk of having that allen-head screw back out into the distributor. I didn’t know there was a purple, oh well I chose blue because it’s removal versus red.
I did replace the distributor cap gasket, the other one looked like it was pinched on one side and didn’t sit flush in the channel. The new one should make the distributor moisture free. Is the powdered dust do to small amounts of moisture getting in there and rusting everything out due to the gasket kink?
Well today when I went to fill up the car (almost empty but the reserve light hadn’t come on yet), it stalled when I tried to start it. Tried to start it right away but the engine just kept cranking, I tried the position two thingie and it didn’t work…so I sat for about 2-3 minutes and it started up again. I get this symptom when the gas tank is low (plus it was hot tonight low 80’s), could it be some vapor lock crap or something?
Defiantly slight bogging throughout all the gears. more noticeable up till 2500 rpms. Timing?[/QUOTE]
what weird ass trick are u talking about the position 2? its not a trick. its somewhat of a test to see listen for the fuel pump and for the mfr.
and all that rust dusty stuff… obviously isn’t good. do u really think its not affecting it tho? electrical stuff especially ones that important are sealed for a reason. thats why i think ur distributor could still be an issue. if anything clean up all the connections to the coil. from the looks of it, the screws that hold the wires on the coil have seen some poor ass screwdrivers (well really the wrong size one).
Timing is now spot on…it was retarded a bit.
But now I’m still feeling a bit of a hesitation, it becomes even obvious when the A/C is on to where I need to turn it off at a red light so I can get going.
I guess I should replace the plugs and wires as well?
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2043385]Timing is now spot on…it was retarded a bit.
But now I’m still feeling a bit of a hesitation, it becomes even obvious when the A/C is on to where I need to turn it off at a red light so I can get going.
I guess I should replace the plugs and wires as well?[/QUOTE]
the plugs for sure. i dunno what condition ur wires are in. if its still the original ones i’d do so.