Ok I got the NGK v-power ones you suggested for $2.09/each…now debating on which wires to get…
ngk ones.
Well kinda at the end of my rope here…after replacing the spark plugs (ngk -vpower) & wires (got OEM sumitomo) took her out for a test drive and no difference. Bogging is still there on the low end and with the A/C I pretty much stall when taking off from a dead stop…I’ve gotta rev the RPMs to get going with the A/C on. The gap on the new plugs are .044
The old plugs have a strong gasoline odor but they look like they are wearing out fine? Also their gaps were a bit bigger than .044.
The spark plug wires were sumitomo from 1992
regarding u stalling or having very low power when the a/c is on and when u are at a stop… i’m trying to remember what the thing is called… but its suppose to raise the rpms a bit when the a/c is engaged. wanna say icm, but i’m not all here right now. i’m sure someone can chime in about that?
also… since this thread has gotten ridiculously big… can u state what u have done to the car now? like list, plugs, wires, cap n rotor, etc. but u list it cuz its hard to keep flipping back to read up on this.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2043920]regarding u stalling or having very low power when the a/c is on and when u are at a stop… i’m trying to remember what the thing is called… but its suppose to raise the rpms a bit when the a/c is engaged. wanna say icm, but i’m not all here right now. i’m sure someone can chime in about that?
also… since this thread has gotten ridiculously big… can u state what u have done to the car now? like list, plugs, wires, cap n rotor, etc. but u list it cuz its hard to keep flipping back to read up on this.[/QUOTE]
Ok I’ve replaced the following.
- distributor cap
- distributor rotor
- spark plugs (NGK vpower, gapped at .044)
- spark plug wires (OEM sumitomo)
- Timing is correct (checked with a timing light)
Keep in mind the car’s acceleration was fine (even with the A/C) prior to me fukin with the distributor and changing the above mentioned parts.
This adventure was to try and find out if my MFR was bad or not.
How old is the catalytic converter on the car? I know my car used to bog down a bit and loose power in the lower rpms, and it turned out to be a vacuum leak in a hose to my map sensor, which led to a clogged/burnt up catalytic converter. Just a thought.
Wow. Yeah from a MFR to this. This is like a novel hopefully with a good ending. Not as long as my unsolved huge thread which is titled, “Do I have a current draw?” Not even the “expert gurus” on here no what the problem is. ohh well.
Seems like you finally fixed your problem. Did you?
Ok I’ve started another thread here since this one is pretty long now…http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195029
[QUOTE=91akira;2043979]Wow. Yeah from a MFR to this. This is like a novel hopefully with a good ending. Not as long as my unsolved huge thread which is titled, “Do I have a current draw?” Not even the “expert gurus” on here no what the problem is. ohh well.
Seems like you finally fixed your problem. Did you?[/QUOTE]
91akira, send me a link to it. i’m kinda curious.
sorry to bring this back up, i read and looked through this post and did not see/ find out if the OP found out what the issue was, or even if he sitched out his MFR and if that solved his issue.
You SN looks familiar. I think you helped me solve a couple of different issues. not sure though. but here is my ongoing problem:
I replaced the MFR last weekend and you know…car has started 100% every time, even when sitting in 90 degree heat and after a fuel refill when the tank was almost empty.
In my case as well as 95% of the other similar cases it’s the MFR, so spend the $40+ on a new one (or buy my old one and re solder the connections http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195518), replace it and see what happens. Replacing it took me about 20-30 mins.