what do you mean by when it throws a code 4 ? or whats a dmm/ohmeter ? sorry im new to this =]
your ecm throws a code and you use that code to diagnose problems that may arise. code 4 for instance is a crank shaft position sensor (CKP) which if thrown tells you that either the cranks timing is off or the sensor is bad or something like that. A DMM is a digital multi meter which is used for seeing how much electrical power you are getting to which ever wire you use it on, they also have a setting for ohms which tells the resistance of which ever wire you use it on. its a must have tool for anyone that needs to diagnose wiring problems
i need to do my head too. haha. oh and just a thought, i haven’t looke too far into this but, i heard that more compress can be obtained with thinner head gasket. that is if it’s true and if your going to stay naturally aspired.
i’m going to look into this further when i rebuild my engine.
[QUOTE=DAflashback;2212820]i need to do my head too. haha. oh and just a thought, i haven’t looke too far into this but, i heard that more compress can be obtained with thinner head gasket. that is if it’s true and if your going to stay naturally aspired.
i’m going to look into this further when i rebuild my engine.[/QUOTE]
doing head work is a tedious process when done correctly… haha
I can see how a thinner HG could create a slightly higher compression because there is less room between the head and the combustion chamber, but with the smaller head gasket you would need to counter with a shorter valve lash in order to make sure that the piston doesnt make contact with the valves. In my oppinion that extra few psi of compression doesnt seem worth it when you could just get a regular HG and some higher compression valves/ pistons. but thats just my 2 cents… If you find out any more info on this shoot me a pm cause im curious about the logic behind it.
kobe.
So I found out why my car wasn’t starting . My buddy took the distibutor apart or I guess he took out the cap and from there, there is the rotor and the rotor should be attached with a small screw and that was missing. So luckily my buddy found the screw and just screwed it back and car was working perfectly =]
congrats man! i found out mine was also off as well it was not my problem… my crappy ebay headgasket was leaking between 2-3 cylinders and the valves were also leaking. but i got a new-ish head and am going to put it on hopefully tomorrow after a good cleaning 
ive been searching all over the internet and i really cant find a exact answer to my question so hopefully someone here will know.
with the head off the car and all the valves having a fresh lapping and head cleaning and everything (valves.springs.retainers.keepers) reinstalled how much leakage is acceptable? Im using gas to check for leaks and a few still have a slight “seepage” (SP). they dont have a stream of fluid coming from them, but with the head tilted to the side for a few moments there is a slight leak still…
so does anyone know how much leakage is acceptable? I really wanna get my head back on because i havent had my car start in almost a month and a half now.
[QUOTE=djkobe;2212828]doing head work is a tedious process when done correctly… haha
I can see how a thinner HG could create a slightly higher compression because there is less room between the head and the combustion chamber, but with the smaller head gasket you would need to counter with a shorter valve lash in order to make sure that the piston doesnt make contact with the valves. In my oppinion that extra few psi of compression doesnt seem worth it when you could just get a regular HG and some higher compression valves/ pistons. but thats just my 2 cents… If you find out any more info on this shoot me a pm cause im curious about the logic behind it.
kobe.[/QUOTE]
well that’s how compression is obtained. when the is less room between the head and the combustion chamber. if you want the same compression as stock that’s when u use a shim to regain the space and take away the compression. but the reason ppl port and polish their head is for that particular reason, they mil/shave off small amount of aluminum from the head and gives less room between head and block (like the thinner headgasket). if ur car ran 87 octane before im sure it’ll cause ur car to run 91-93 octane instantly.
Well I have cold start problem and I’m losing hope so I changed wit all new parts so here it is…new fuel pump and strainer and filter,icm,coil,rotor,cap,plugs and wires,main relay and ecu…it won’t start when it’s cold and I live Hawaii so it doesn’t get that cold…it cranks but no start…thanks alot guys…
crank but no start
- Has Fuel
- Has Spark
- Has Compression
- Timing is dead set
motor turns like a champ and ran fine until i parked it. no visible wiring damage from mice etc. been really killing me for the past 2 weeks, i have a buyer lined up i just gotta get it to run. im not a dummy and i know what im doing. this thing just has me stumped.
fixed it. cap and rotor. guess spark wasnt hot enough to ignite the fuel
My CEL stays on for like 30 mins before the fuel pump primes…car runs fine once the CEL goes off…thank guys
click but no crank.
-mfr is good
-fuses all good
-wires good
-ground is good
-battery and starter good
-fuel pump priming right
all i hear is clicking… no cranking no turning over.
- motor is not seized i can turn it by hand from the crank pulley.
im stumped… can anyone input??
LOL :)…Then we should go for a New Thread …‘How many Integra Lover had/having this same problem and how they have solved it’…Now it is already over a month, 7 mechanics and 2 electricians has already visited my lovely Tigress, found no problem and suggested me everyone of them to sell it immediately to transfer over toyota… I didnt mind.
So my car won’t start, I have spark and compression but no fuel?..
Yesss 
My Car Start Problem Solved :attn: . Below are the Problem found and their Solutions:
1: Distributor Coil : Distributor coil was found week and had crack in the middle. I had to search and find it in the old parts market (Dholaikhal, Dhaka) replaced it and started well.
2: AC Pump(Pump inside the fuel tank): I had a delayed starting problem in the morning (required 4/5 self kick before starting). and the culprit was the Week AC Pump and also the blocked oil return pipe from engine to the tank. Got a reconditioned AC Pump from a local shop (Dhaka, Bangladesh) and cut the blocked section of the pipe and clip it to the engine the problem solved.
Thanks to Allah…My problem solved.
Note: The 20 years old car found the AC pump replacement for the first time by me. I dont know if I required to clean the fuel tank!!!?? any suggestions??