Nice thread.I really like to read & enjoyed.
Car Cranks But wont start after §§§§§ problems
my 91 Integra Ls had a noise coming from the distributor for a week it was squeaking and howling then one day i went home the car started to have rough idling bouncing around on tach with bad spurring . after that day i didnt move it just left it there .then the next day the car cranks but wouldnt turnover. I told the old distributor off and the cam in the distributor had a broken tooth tryed to rebuild it but went and bought a new one instead . after the new one was install the car has the same problem
Whats more likely to be bad in this case. Fuel pump or ECU.
- Check engine stays on
- Rough start and sounding like the car is running on 3 cylinders
- Sputtering speed
- (Before car stopped starting all together)Ran fine after i start moving(go about 100ft) or give it some gas(stomp on pedal).
- Car no start.
- Replaced dist cap, spark plug wires, dist rotor, ignition coil, MFR sill no go.
- Check voltage to pump(on clip and directly on points on top of fuel pump) good 12volts.
- No sound what so ever coming from the pump when switched to on(voltage is there).
- Reset ECU memory, check engine light still on.
So fuel pump was starting to die then just died. Or ECU bad.
I plan on taking my ecu in for a check before i spend anymore money on this thing.
your more likely to have a Fuel pump issue than an ECU but check your fuses…
Opps forgot to add 10.
- Checked all fuses.
And thank you. Wanted another opinion other than mine.
P.S. Would bad fuel pump cause CEL to stay on?
hey everyone, i also have a starting issue. i’ve read this entire thread and found some interesting stuff but nothing similar to my problem.
first off it’s snowing here and my cars never had an issue with it before. on the day after we had a big blizzard i went out and shoveled the snow and warmup my car. to no luck it wouldn’t start cause i found that the light was left on in my car. obviously it was my battery then. i charged it and it started up. next day i did the same thing, tried starting it but no go, i turned my keys i hear fuel coming and clicking but no start. tried it a few more times with the charger attached and still no go nor can i hear the click of my starter anymore. took my started off and got it tested and it passed. reinstalled and to my surprise all of my lights on my dash is on like my highbeam signal lights, ect. the temp is on hot fuel full (even thought it’s not). this is always on no matter wat i do even if i take out my key. WTF. i’ve never heard or seen anything like this happen in my life.
replaced MFR,
ground wire from engine to chassie,
iradium spark plugs (used only few months but put in only during summer time).
i really have no idea what the problem is but have a feeling it could be my ECU… idk it’s driving me nuts. HELP PLEASE!!!
I’ve been having an intermitent starting problem but my car acts up when ever (hot, cold, day or night) but I live in Hawaii so it doesn’t get really hot or cold. When I turn the key to start my car I only get a click sound of the starter engaging but it doesn’t seem to spin the fly wheel. If I kick or jump start the car it runs. I’ve changed the main relay, starter, clutch switch, and upgraded to a higher CCA optima battery and still I still have had the problem. Up until 2 weeks ago I did the big 3 upgrade which is pretty much upgrading your stock wires from your battery positive to your alternator, battery ground to the engine and frame. Since I was having a starting problem I upgrading the positive to my starter also. I replaced all the stock wires with 0 gauge wires and it seems to be doing pretty good for now. My battery is relocated to the trunk, fyi. As to helping me with the starting problem, the upgrade help increase my alternator output (per volt gauge inside the car) and sterio system too. Try look this upgrade up on YOUTUBE as BIG 3 UPGRADE there alot of how to videos. Its a cheap and easy upgrade anyone can do and if it doesn’t work still, then atleast your electrical system will benefit from it. Hope everything goes good. shoots.
You may want to try and fix it first… http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html here is a vid… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY 94
i remembered something interesting
on every car after the 80’s, probably earlier, have the ‘park/neutral safety switch’ for automatic and ‘clutch safety switch’ for manuals.
this is a critical part of the starting system (unless u’ve bridged out the clutch safety switch for a remote start) u should check into this.
even though it’s rare for this to happen, it still happens. it’s located under the dash between clutch pedal and firewall.
-check battery terminal connection for corrosion or loose connection which can lead to high resistance which means less voltage and amperage going to starter. start needs a lot of amperages, about 250-400 amps for 4 cylinder.
-in that case replace the battery to a good battery of 12.4-12.6 volts as it’s state of charge.
-when turning key on start/crank and all you hear is a click and no spin or anything after the click then your start’s pull-in coil of the solenoid is still working but the hold-in is probably dead.
-if you hear click and engine starting to turn over (the spin) then that could simple mean that your battery is dead, and STOP trying to start ur car in that condition. either replace the battery or slow charge it for at least 12hr, recommended time is 24hrs. (like above battery should read 12.4-12.6v on a voltmeter for it to be a good battery. if it does and you try starting it but it won’t it probably had a surface charge that fooled you. more than likely the service of the battery is at it’s end.)
I know that these things are basic stuff but we do tend to look past it a little and we pay the price for it. like me all i had was a battery issue (low voltage and bad battery terminal connection.)
i ended up fucking up a perfectly good starter paid over $100 dollar for a new one and another $100 for a new battery.
now i might’ve shorted my dash gauge, currently getting wrong reading on level of gas in tank.
sorry for babling but if i am wrong or is missing something here please correct me.
if anyone finds this to be of any help tell me, i could re-write some of this and go into more detail.
hey guys im new to this forum but anyways, one day i was on the freeway on 5th gear then my car started to bog out out of nowhere and my car died. ever since then it would crank but wouldnt turn on. i changed my main relay, checked my fuel pumps and is fine, and i get spark on my spark plug wires and checked the timing and the timing was fine. is there anything else that can be wrong that wouldnt make my car start? i need help guys "/
look into your ignition coil and ignitor unit!
oh okay but if it was those wouldn’t there be no spark ? i was thinking if it is that, im just gonna get a new distributor
i just read through this whole thread and there is alot of very useful information. BUT it does not quite have anything on my current problem, My problem is the car will start very roughly and the idle shoots up to a few grand and throws a code 4 (ckp) and then dies. the mechanical timing is spot on with a new tensioner/belt/ and water pump, the cap and rotor are also brand new and im going to take my plug wires back and get new ones because they are still under warrenty…
anyone have an idea? ive been searching everywhere for this problem and no where really seems to have any answers that i can use. so any input will be greatly appreciated. so far all ive gotten from all the info in code 4 threads is that i need a new distributor, is this my only option?
tiny, my car did the same exact thing but was having lack of spark and now that i have spark again it just throws a code 4 so if you find out anything please let me know and ill also do the same. good luck with your fix!
also have autozone or somewhere check your icm and you can check the resistance on the coil if you have a volt meter, If i remember correctly the primary should be 3-700ohm and secondary is 13k-18k or around there or it could be the other way around ill have to check my manual
[QUOTE=djkobe;2212166]tiny, my car did the same exact thing but was having lack of spark and now that i have spark again it just throws a code 4 so if you find out anything please let me know and ill also do the same. good luck with your fix!
also have autozone or somewhere check your icm and you can check the resistance on the coil if you have a volt meter, If i remember correctly the primary should be 3-700ohm and secondary is 13k-18k or around there or it could be the other way around ill have to check my manual[/QUOTE]
for sure thank you dude. ill let you know as soon as i get it running. im still trying to figure whats wrong with it .
could the wiring harness do anything to make my car not turn on ? it cranks but doesn’t turn on.
wiring deffinatly plays a huge part so i would check the resistance on them to make sure there are no breaks or loose connections
ya huh thanks a lot dude i appreciate it. my buddy noticed that it looked like one of my wires caught on fire, its black, crispy and it looks burnt around the edges so probably thats it.
have u tried to replace the spark plug wires with a known good sparkplug wires? that might be what’s causing code 4 to shoot. or u could just use a DMM/ohmmeter and test the resistance of each wire…
just an idea, cuz that’s i had similar problem and after replacing spark plug wires problem went away.
good luck.
[QUOTE=DAflashback;2212520]have u tried to replace the spark plug wires with a known good sparkplug wires? that might be what’s causing code 4 to shoot. or u could just use a DMM/ohmmeter and test the resistance of each wire…
just an idea, cuz that’s i had similar problem and after replacing spark plug wires problem went away.
good luck.[/QUOTE]
i just got a new set of wires from autozone since mine werent reading good ohms and since they were under warrenty still. the head is off of my car because somehow the compression went from 150 straight across to barely 60-75 so im reseating all of the valves since they were leaking and replacing the head gasket with a good one since the cheapo i bought didnt even seal properly and i was leaking between all cylinders… so well see what happens this week after i finish lapping all of the valves.