ok so i have a 92 GS-R and for the past couple weeks the car would “choose” when it would start. i figured it was something with the ground on the battery, cause my terminals were loose. so i replaced the battery and the terminals and it started up fine. 2 days later…nothing, next day nothing. so i checked everything and it was all still tight. the car does have an aftermarket alarm that the previous owner put on, no clue what to do, and this is my dd. thanks
Need more info…
When you say “the car would “choose” when it would start” and " 2 days later…nothing, next day nothing" what exactly do you mean???
Is engine turning over but not starting?
Possibly a no fuel or no spark issue or timing maybe.
Does engine not even turn over?
Possible problem with starter, starter solenoid, starter relay, ign. switch or wiring. 94
Im actually dealing with this problem right now. It turned out to be the starter solenoid contact. apparently this is well known between honda/acura techs. The problem im having right now is getting the starter out of the car. The bottom bolt is put right against the subframe making it impossible to get at.
Starter solenoid contact???
So engine not turning over, how did you determine it was the “starter solenoid contact”? 94
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what i mean by it “choose” when to start is some times it would start some times it wouldnt. and by the next day nothing, and then next. is that it wouldnt and wont currently start. any threads on how to remove the starter? i think im havin AAA tow it to the shop tommorrow and lettin them handle it, i just want it to run so i can install my new parts. 
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and when i turn the key, everything comes on, and when i turn it all the way for it to crank, it clicks once and stops. i hear a noise which i believe is the fuel tryin. i didnt think it was the starter, but im not sure.
If your car is a standard, then the “click” you hear is probably the starter relay.
To be sure it is the relay, turn the key to start and hold it there, step down on the clutch pedal a few times, if you hear the click from under the dash each time you step on the clutch, it is the starter relay.
This means the ign. switch is good and the CIS, [clutch interlock switch] is good and wiring to the starter relay is good, it does not necessarily mean the starter relay itself is good, [even if it is clicking on].
The next thing I would check is the starter and starter solenoid.
First, have someone turn ign. key to start as you listen in the engine bay to see/hear if the starter solenoid “clicks”, if it does have that someone hold the key to start while you give the starter solenoid a few good raps/hits with any heavy metal object, [hammer, big screwdriver, wrench].
If engine turns over, [starter works] replace the starter/starter solenoid.
If you hear no “click” from the solenoid, try a bypass jump.
Unplug the starter lead from starter solenoid, [smaller of the two leads at the starter and the only one that can be “unplugged”] using a jumper lead, [scrap piece of wire] connect one end to the batt. pos.(+) and touch the other end to the terminal on the starter you unplugged the starter lead from.
BE CAREFUL, make sure car is not in gear, if starter is good it will turn engine over, even if car is in gear and ign. switch is on.
I would do the tests above before I remove the starter.
Removing the starter is a bit of a PITA if you do not have the correct tools, to remove the lower bolt I would use a 1/4"-3/8 ratchet and socket and the proper length extension, a “wiggle head” extension is the best.94
FCM- thanks for the awesome description man. i just gotta find some time to do it now. im thinkin thats the prob.
I did the starter relay test and everything seemed fine. everything tested out right. I have quite a bit of automotive background and this problem had me stumped for a year(There were a few problem here and there during this time to). About a week ago I was starring at a power flow chart. I checked everything and it tested perfectly. I got to the point where I bench tested the starter without the solenoid(seemed like the starter was the problem. The starter was mint and the test backed it up. Then a friend from an Acura dealership I was talking to said a few years back he dealt with the same thing. He just told the person the solenoid was shot and sold them a new starter. but i wanted to find out why. Turns out that the contacts where badly worn down. It looked like someone got a mini machine gun and went to town on it. I did some more research and that means the starter was exposed to higher then normal amperage. well sure enough the previous owner installed a big 630 cold cranking amp battery. It seems like a good idea at the time. bigger battery means :). But though a few years of that the contacts take a big hit.
So this is why it was such a random issue nearly impossible to find. If there was not enough amps to jump the new space created it wouldn’t start. but when i say enough it was probably 590 of the 630 available. anything less and it probably wouldn’t start. So when i was testing the battery it seemed okay but i guess not good enough. I hope this helps someone. Im going to make a separate thread when i have more time.
And fcm is right do the starter relay test before you take out the starter. It takes awhile the first time because the bottom starter bolt is kinda hidden and it’s hard to know where it is unless you have another starter to refer to.
simplyg23 your problem has nothing to do with the size of the batt., current used is dependent on the load using it, it could be a 1000 CCA batt. and the starter will still use only the current needed.
The most common cause of damaged contacts in a starter is misaligned contacts, over-tightening the nut that holds batt. cable to the starter motor can turn the whole stud and that misalign the contacts and the symptoms are intermittent starting that gets progressively worse, contacts will look damaged, [machine-gunned].
The other possibility is over-voltage, more then 12V+ when starting, [24V+]. 94
Yeah your right. It was probably misaligned. Even if I have a 1000 cca the starter will only use what it needs. Apparently the markings on the contacts are normal. Never new that. Well This is the last time I listen to a tech who says timing belts last forever
this is the last time i listen to a tech who says timing belts last forever
rofl. 94
Its not your starter its your Ignition Switch Wiring…u can take a wire connect it to your starter were the “ground” is and take the other end of the wire and touch the positive part of the battery it should start and if it does its your Ignition Switch Wiring…Bee
[QUOTE=bee718757;2111253]Its not your starter its your Ignition Switch Wiring…u can take a wire connect it to your starter were the “ground” is and take the other end of the wire and touch the positive part of the battery it should start and if it does its your Ignition Switch Wiring…Bee[/QUOTE]LOL, don’t quit your day job. 94
LMAO. Ok honestly anything is possible. The starter was definitely my problem and it sounds exactly what I had wrong. At the same time many things could have caused it. Like fcm stated above.
Also Im slightly confused about what your saying. there is a wire that comes directly from the battery and goes to the starter and then there is a signal wire that toggles ground(ignition switch). Or it may toggle positive im not sure but i just don’t see that being the situation. Now your saying take the signal wire and connect positive to it?
The thicker of the two leads at the starter is the batt. lead, as you said.
The thinner one, “signal wire” does come from the ign. switch, through the starter relay and it is a pos.(+).
A bypass jump is just what it sounds like, supplying power to the “signal” terminal on starter directly, bypassing the ign. switch, starter relay, [gear position switch on automatics] and the CIS, [clutch interlock switch].
You can jump from either the batt. pos.(+) terminal or the batt. cable connection on the starter, [or any 10A power source for that matter].
Unplug the “signal wire” from the starter, [starter solenoid] and supply 12V+, [power] directly to the terminal on the starter, [not the wire].
Because it bypass everything you must be careful to make sure transmission is not in gear, is starter and starter solenoid are good, ENGINE WILL CRANK, even if ign. switch is off and/or car is in gear.
If engine does crank, there is nothing wrong with the starter or starter solenoid, you will need to look farther “upstream”, either starter relay, [gear position switch if an automatic] CIS , ign. switch or wiring between the above. 94
My car is fine now I was just trying to understand that. I was confused. thank you.
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