I have a 91 integra LS-Turbo and replaced the LS TB to a GSR TB so I can get the map sensor. I got a OBX spacer TB also. it runs fine but idling up and down constantly for couple days.
i pulled it last night then let the car cool down and hung out with my friends for good hour or two. everything ran fine except that idling problem. i started it up and my engine sounds like a sti or wrx sound at idle, don’t know how else to describe but yea. As i step on the gas, it will jerk non-stop from low to high rpm. cel code 16. its injectors but wasn’t clear if the injector itself are bad or something
all i did was replaced the tb and move the map sensor from the frame and wired it to my tb. please help
update:
i tried resetting the ecu and none of the injectors are loose. cel 16 still shows
i tried taking out the plugs one by one. the car seems to sputter, like bad idling or something. the third one plug (to the right, close to the timing belt) the seems to be close of dying, way worse than the other ones i pulled out. I’m guessing its the injector that is faulty or something
if im not mistaken if the idle gets worse when you pull an injector, i would think that means thats an injector thats working good since it had the biggest affect on the idle.
i think wat you want to look for is an injector that has absolutely no affect on the idle when its disconnected.
this is just my two cents also, i have personally never troubleshot something like this on a car, only on a transit bus.
ya that could cause that. my car was acting similar last week, i just changed the plugs and it idled like a champ after that.
if your gonna do the plugs measure the resistance on the wires and if its been a while since you changed the cap and rotor on the distributor at least check if not change them.
i have this car for about a yr and 3 months and have not changed the distrubitor, and dont know aobut the owner before me. i changed the spark plug like 2 months ago but not the wires. how do i check if the wires are bad? the tip is stil shiny on the wires.
Ok I dont know if this would help, but yesterday my car threw a code 16 which is also injectors. it was the closest one to the timing belt #1 ECU pin A1. It was a loose pin on the ecu plug end from swapping obd0-obd1 ecu so much it came loose its fix now.
Basically for me I use a multimeter to test for 12v on the clips with key in
the on position. Remove all the Clips first and test 1 by 1 for 12v and if all is good It may be the injector itself.
Another way to see if injector is working is also to take out the ecu fuse so the car just cranks, but wont start and crank it over a few sec then remove the plugs and check for fuel on the plug tip. If there is fuel the injectors are working.
Now I can only think of the cap/coil being weak, but still fires though probably rule that out and check your plug wires. Its hard to say for the wires resistance ohm, but i find that as long as all the wires are 6.00 ohms and higher are better than 0.00-4.99 ohms.
I forget what it said on the helms like 14-25k ohm? correct me if i am wrong someone, and also its varies by ohm the shorter and longer the wires so as long the numbers are not very low under 6 maybe u are ok. I have 3 set of ngk wires and all set is like but has 5-8 ohm all across. so i pick and match the highest one.
whoa…i was hoping it wouldnt be any electrical stuff but i guess i start with taking out the fuse injector part first and hopefully it’s the injectors itself. i forgot to say but i have stock injtectors so yea.
another question…my car like sputters, is this becuase of the cel 16?
SOunds right cel code 16 and when at ilde u try to rev it it just bog or sputter but still idles fine etc. Check for 11.99-12.01v on the injector clips
update: i checked by taking out the fuse and cranking it it seems like the 3rd injector on to the cam gear side is not shooting fuel. i also tried putting precision injectors 310s and still give me cel 16. i put back the stock injectors and it start up fine with no cel in my gauge but shows blinking in my ecu, 1, 7, and 16 this time. so i’m thinking its the voltage? i dont have a meter so i can’t check it out unless i burrow one or something. any ideas?
what is a throttle angle btw? is this cuzing my idle to go up and down constantly? cuz that what happened…
i checked cylinder 1 spark plug tip is completely dry. only one i checked.
cyclinder #2 also stays on when i take out the wire but sorta trying to stay alive. cyclinder #2 completely dies when i take out the the spark plug wire.
my friend trying take the injector clip 2 and 1 and swap it. like injector clip 2 plugged into cyclinder 1 and vice versa. i did the same set-up as 2 and cyclinder 1 still dies with injector clip 2 in it.
i still have not check the clips for voltage but i’m trying to get to get a hold on a voltage meter but will purchase one if i dont get one soon.
any ideas guys? my car is still sitting duck. :sad:
if u dont have a mulitmeter to check for voltage then just get a 12v bulb and wire it to the injector clip that u suspect is faulty and when u turn on key to on position u should see the bulb light up.
Like i said i had a cel 16 and my # 1 injector clip wiring didnt have power due to my ecu pin came loose. I keep switching back and forth back then with a p28 obd1 when i swapped. thats how it got loose. maybe ur problem is similar, with no voltages etc.
Also when the car does run unplug the injector clip one at a time car should act just as if u unplug the spark plug wires only this time if nothing happens as u pull the clips then u know that clip wiring isnt powering the injector so its dry.
ok, fixed it. it was the ecu the whole time i replaced the ecu and works fine. first time ecu threw up 1,6, 16. next time was 1,3,7,16. third time was 1,3,6,7,9,10,16 or what my friend said. so now it’s drivable and working condition, hopefully.:rockon: