Thats a pretty vibrant blue. I personally like blue cause its softer on the eyes than red or amber (imo) but those are pretty bright. What color is the int/ext of your car?
The exterior is black, The interior is the blackish/dark charcoal color. It’s not really as bright as it seems. I just kept messing with my iso settings on the camera to expose it for a little bit more longer. Plus I think I had a ultra bright blue led that was lit behind me, and it was shining against the cluster causing it to be a bit more brighter. I just picked the brightest pictures to post. A majority of the rest are slightly dimmer. Same goes for the warning lights (check engine light, door light, turning signals blah blah blah). The color in person compared to the picture aren’t even close to comparison.
Good choice of light color then! 
I had a G1 Teg that was black with grey interior and I changed all the dash lights to blue, accented under the seats with some of them slim blue neon tubes and gave it a blue undercarriage set (with bulb shrouds) and it rocked socks… imo of course. I was a blue glow on the highway at night hehe.
Moral of the story is, blue goes with black pretty nicely. :rockon:
Allen,
I think it looks very sexy, and I admire the work you did on how it turned out.
Great upgrade in my opinion, keep up the good work dude…:bowdown:
I’d like to do something like what you have their also here.
Just brings more idea’s of modding the TEG differently, yeah know…
[QUOTE=DOHCIntegraLS;1748901]Gauge Cluster is now swapped over to blue LED. Still need to do thermostat controls. I’m also going to remove all the bulbs for warning lights, and remove switches(hazard, defrost, fogs, etc) and replace all those bulbs with wedge type white LED…to enhance the brightness.
What style LED bulbs should I use for my turn signals/reverse lights/tail lights? Single or Multi LED? Wedge type or Regular? I want my exterior lights to look nice.
Here’s pics of the gauge cluster after conversion.
[/QUOTE]
Figured I should post an update…
Pretty much every 74type LED bulb in my conversion no longer works, due to failing contacts. The top PCB is broken. Reason for these issues is because the 74Type LED bulbs are bigger than the OEM bulbs, you have to force them in to the OEM sockets…this isn’t a problem until you try to push in and turn the sockets in to their respective holes. It takes a significant amount of force, enough force to break my top PCB and cause the contacts to fail on all the others.
I’d like to do this mod again, but would like to know if any other LED companies have bulbs that are a better fit for the 74type.
I am having the same problem.
In the cluster the lights in the top of the cluster that illuminates the needles have a mind of their own. I finally got sick of it and put oem white back in just the top. The bulbs that illuminate the numbers from behind the cluster have been working fine. In addition the bulbs that i have illuminating the HVAC controls are just as erratic.
Also I swapped my turn signals to leds and my corner lights and my brake lights. The brake lights are the only ones that work right. The only 2 turn signal bulbs (out of 6) that i have left that work only half of them work, and ARE TWO DIFFERENT SHADES OF AMBER. It looks retarded.
I used Superbrightleds.com. I thought their site looked very professional. I spent well over 100 dollars on blubs from them.
I think i will never buy a bulb from them again.
[QUOTE=Greenbling;2114325]I am having the same problem.
In the cluster the lights in the top of the cluster that illuminates the needles have a mind of their own. I finally got sick of it and put oem white back in just the top. The bulbs that illuminate the numbers from behind the cluster have been working fine. In addition the bulbs that i have illuminating the HVAC controls are just as erratic.
Also I swapped my turn signals to leds and my corner lights and my brake lights. The brake lights are the only ones that work right. The only 2 turn signal bulbs (out of 6) that i have left that work only half of them work, and ARE TWO DIFFERENT SHADES OF AMBER. It looks retarded.
I used Superbrightleds.com. I thought their site looked very professional. I spent well over 100 dollars on blubs from them.
I think i will never buy a bulb from them again.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, my top cluster bulbs started acting up at first, the one of the bulbs behind the speedometer, then the one behind the fuel gauge. I never did replace the bulbs in the thermo-control area, ashtray, or cig lighter.
When I placed my order for all those bulbs, I also ordered all the colored wide-angle bulbs to do my tail lights, front turn signals and front bumper signals. After over a year they all still work great…one brake-light went bad from rusting and the LEDS fell out of it because my tail-light gasket was bad and allowed water in there, which flowed right over that bulb. They look to rust pretty fast, so you gotta make sure your gaskets are good or replace them. I used some of that 3m double-sided foam tape stuff which fixed the issue.
just placed my order for the bulbs, will do a post in my build thread once they come in.
Has anyone done the gauge cluster LED lighting using bulbs from somewhere other than superbrightleds, and had it work fine? I got a new gauge cluster and want to do blue LED again, but not with SBL bulbs because the fitment was terrible.
EDIT: Found a solution to my problem.
Ok, for the little black sockets the walk-through says we need to order 74type LED bulbs. These bulbs are TOO BIG for those little black sockets, you can force them in but this spreads out the socket and makes it hard to re-install in to the cluster. You can force the sockets in and turn them, but this carries a HEAVY risk of breaking something or your contacts failing which will lead to “blinking light syndrome”.
My solution? The T1.5B bulbs are 74Type LED bulbs in their own brand-new socket. Order two for the back of the cluster like the walk-through says, then order two more for the top lighting…they will be a snug/tight fit, but not near as bad as the socket that was in them from the factory + a 74Type bulb.
You could also remove the bulbs from those two little brown sockets and install 74Type LED bulbs in them, they’ll be a little loose so before installing the bulb in the socket you’ll want to pry on the tabs inside of the socket to make it grip the bulb a little better. You can also use these little brown sockets in the top light holes, snug fit but work fine…so if you have a spare cluster on hand, rob the little brown sockets from it for the top lights on the cluster you’re converting.
Once the cluster is back in my car and my motor swap is done, I’ll post new pics/results.
Ah! I ordered the 2 bulbs w/ sockets, but realized that you only need them for a 90-91 climate control. I have a 1992 and it doesn’t use 2 bulbs for the climate control.
i find that superbrightled isnt the best quality. maybe its just me but i had leds dead twice now. going to change them again and if they burn out maybe i’ll go back to regular amber bulbs instead.
The only LEDs that have “burnt out” on me were their 194 single-LED wide-beam. What actually happened was the solder joint on one end of the resister inside the bulb broke. There’s a way to finagle it back in place and get it working again, hard to explain but if you look at it hard enough you’ll figure it out. I’ve had a ton of their bulbs for over a year and not a single one actually burnt out apart from a brake-light that was heavily rusted from a faulty tail-light gasket that is now fixed.
You can’t use the T1.5 socketed bulbs in the 90-91 climate control either, it has wired sockets. Only the bulb can be replaced, takes a 74. Same for the fan-speed/temp-mix…wired socket, can only replace bulb.
The only thing you need the T1.5 socketed bulbs for, after doing this conversion twice on two clusters, is to replace the two top cluster lights in the little black sockets and the two rear cluster lights in the little brown sockets…these are circled in the first post, he says to use 74s in the top lights but SBL’s 74s are too big for the little black sockets and modification of the socket is needed. You’ll also need two 194s for the cluster, and three 74s for the climate controls…on a 90-91, not sure about 92-93.
i had 2 t1.5 go and 2 74s go.
where were the 74s located and what year teg do you have?
The 74s were on the top. i have a 93.
Are you sure those burned out? My top 74s went out because the bulbs were too big for the sockets, and the pressure of the now-widened sockets broke the PCB.
That’s what I am assuming, i replaced them with a different 74 and it is working fine although the two 74s on the top have slight differences in color tone.
hey lithium keep us updated as i plan on doing the swap when it gets warm but if the your 74s above the cluster go out again i might just stick to OEM filament bulbs 
Heres mine, had to modify 2 of the bulbs to make color even as i could.
Blacklight above with blue strip removed and foil to scatter the light good.
So here is an update, the 74s ontop or the rest of the bulbs for that matter are fine. I have had problems with the 2 T1.5 leds though. I replaced them twice now and one side is on/off now again. So yeah im not sure whats going on but i think im done with leds or i just wont drive at night lol.