christmas present to myself! swappp

GENERAL General G2/G2IC Discussion
21

[QUOTE=iRockTheDA9;2103666]i just want everything to be as close to stock as possible to my b18a.
Plus there are some missing vaccum lines for the p75(map sensor, etc.)

so im going to just stick to the usdm manifold. its going to be a daily driven engine, so i dont mind too much.

Only reason i got the headers is because it was only 80 bucks and i want to give it a try, never had headers before on any of my cars.
Im going to paint it black and make a heatshield for it.
But before i even get to use it, i have to get a new test pipe made because of the 2.5" collector. So im going to be using the stock headers/downpipe when the engine goes back in.[/QUOTE]

oh man…you should definately reconsider changing the intake manifold. It wouldn’t be hard to make it work and still be as oem as possible. That’s the main regret i have from my B20 swap is not using a P75 intake manifold. I wanted it to be as stock as possible also.

22

Are you sure…??

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198738&highlight=crossmember

23

im prty sure he’s talking about the crossmember on the front. no the one from front to back.

24

There’s a lot of wrong info in that thread. Some people are talking about the removing the brace, while others are talking about removing the crossmember, which cannot be done with out messing up your suspension. Where would the radius rods go? Where would the front transmission mount, mount to?

25

i already put the pr4 manifold on, now im working on the engine harness, almost complete though.

now i just need to remove some other shit then bolt the tranny up, then the engine should be good to go back in.

as for the front crossmember, removing that would def. cause some type of chassis flex, in that thread that was linked above, that is for the front/rear support bracket. which my car does not have, took that off a long time ago when i changed out the clutch.

26

+1 on this!

A 4-1 header is not really gonna make a difference in a non-vtec setup. These headers don’t really make any power til over 6000 RPM’s and to cut or “notch” your crossmember just for aesthetic purposes just doesn’t make sense.

If u want to feel a difference and save the headache of the crossmember, pick up a 4-2-1 design 2pc header which makes power just around the 4000 RPM mark. You can pick up a knock off one on ebay for like $60 shipped if u want something for a DD…

Also…what about the valve cover for the b18b?? U would need to use it for the PCV valve considering those motors dont use a breather box like the a1…unless its a 94-97??

Good Luck with it anyways! Looking forward to more pics

27

[QUOTE=da92nv;2103910]+1 on this!

A 4-1 header is not really gonna make a difference in a non-vtec setup. These headers don’t really make any power til over 6000 RPM’s and to cut or “notch” your crossmember just for aesthetic purposes just doesn’t make sense.

If u want to feel a difference and save the headache of the crossmember, pick up a 4-2-1 design 2pc header which makes power just around the 4000 RPM mark. You can pick up a knock off one on ebay for like $60 shipped if u want something for a DD…

Also…what about the valve cover for the b18b?? U would need to use it for the PCV valve considering those motors dont use a breather box like the a1…unless its a 94-97??

Good Luck with it anyways! Looking forward to more pics[/QUOTE]

Only reason i picked the headers up is mainly just to know i have them, lol.
im not really looking to make any power, but i decided im going to keep my stock headers. I dont want to deal with the crossmember crap, i was never planning to do any customization to my crossmember.

funny how a set of headers can cause so much discussion. lol
im selling the headers for 80 picked up if anyone is interested.

btw, i have the 94-95 b18b(obd1) so they share the same valve cover/pcv.

updates, no pictures yet.
lastnight after work, i put my b18a post mount on.
took my old flywheel/clutch and pressure plate off, ready for install on the b18b(couldnt put it on since i didnt have a step down socket 1/2-3/8 for the torque wrench) i dont want to guess on how much torque im applying… lol
put the engine harness on.
The engine is almost ready for install, all i need to do is put the clutch,flywheel, pressure plate on and tranny, then back in the engine it goes.

by the way, on my obd1 b18a, the sensor behind the block, that is a knock sensor correct? If so, is it safe to run the engine without it(b18b doesnt have the sensor) and if i just put a pin connecting the 2 wires together(positive/negative) would the CEL still be on?

-karlo

28

[QUOTE=iRockTheDA9;2103927]by the way, on my obd1 b18a, the sensor behind the block, that is a knock sensor correct? If so, is it safe to run the engine without it(b18b doesnt have the sensor) and if i just put a pin connecting the 2 wires together(positive/negative) would the CEL still be on?

-karlo[/QUOTE]

No it is not a knock sensor, LS motors don’t have knock sensors. I am assuming you are talking about the sensor just to the left of the oil filter (top) would be the Engine Oil Temperature Switch and I would switch it over from your a1…

29

oh ok, yah i was just taking a wild guess at what it was.
luckly you told me, i bought a 36mm socket, but it was too big… so i have to return that. lol

also what fails is that i had to buy a clutch kit for like 250 bucks just to use the key(align tool), now i must return it to get my money back. lol

ill be doing all this tomorrow on my day off.

30

Im not positive but i believe it is a 34mm…

31

Certainly should be a knock sensor. I just replaced mine on my B18B. Went to Acura, said I need a knock sensor for 94 Integra non-vtec, paid my 160 dollars, went home and installed it.

Theres a knock sensor on there, maybe only in US, but for sure my b18b has a knock sensor.

32

^part number please? To my understanding and 10+ yrs messing with DA’s specifically…there is no knock sensor on the a1 or b1…

33

[QUOTE=Patch;2104016]Certainly should be a knock sensor. I just replaced mine on my B18B. Went to Acura, said I need a knock sensor for 94 Integra non-vtec, paid my 160 dollars, went home and installed it.

Theres a knock sensor on there, maybe only in US, but for sure my b18b has a knock sensor.[/QUOTE]

my b20, and my b18a never had a knock sensor. why did u need a knock sensor anyway?

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/item.jsp?catcgry1=INTEGRA&n=30530-PV1-A01&d=ACURA_INTEGRA_KNOCK_SENSOR_ASSY.

Fits Years: '92 - '01
Fits Models: INTEGRA 3DR GS-R, INTEGRA 4DR GS-R, INTEGRA 3DR GS-R LEATHER, INTEGRA 4DR GS-R LEATHER, INTEGRA 3DR TYPE-R

Are you saying there is a non-vtec knock sensor different then a vtec knock sensor? i think you are misinforming people here.

34

I think he is saying that he is using a knock sensor where the oil temp switch is supposed to be! Like I said…there is no knock sensor on an LS motor…

Karlo: Just switch over your switch from your a1 motor to your b1 motor and you’ll be good to go! I’m running a 95 b18b1 short block with the original a1 head in my Milano DA and that’s all I had to do…

35

thanks for the info. Im going to remove that sensor from my b18a and put it on my b18b, the jdmb18b doesnt have a hole for the sensor, so i have to use the b18a 34mm bolt in conjunction with the sensor.

shouldnt be too hard, ill have this done tomorrow. Ill try to have pictures up aswell.

Also going to pick up the spoon style lip for my car tomorrow =P
since my typeR one has a big chunk missing. >.<

-karlo
thanks for this info, its very useful! =]

36

There is no knock sensor on B18A/B’s. Look at this thread
Engine Coolant & Oil Temp & Pressure Swiches, Sensors, & Sending Units Explained- G2IC

37

You people really get offended easily lol.

I am running a knock sensor on my motor. Not to say I’m running the stock head, nor the stock harness and ECU. So therefore, my knock sensor goes with my harness and my ecu.

I didn’t mention the vtec part. I told Acura non-vtec, but either he was an idiot (which is more likely), or thought I was an idiot because I didn’t catch my mistake, and just ordered me the correct part.

So yes ladies, I do have a knock sensor on my B18B. No reason why the OP might not “possibly” have one too, as it’s not impossible to put in there. I think the thread pitch is the same for knock, oil temp, oil pres, coolant temp, and fan switch.

38

^^

The problem here is not whether we are sensitive or not, it’s the fact that you are offering completely wrong information to someone when u haven’t a clue as to what your talking about.

Do you have any idea what the purpose of the knock sensor is? Probably not…

If so can u explain why you would need one on an LS motor?

I doubt the dealer was an idiot, but more like he probably figured u didn’t know what you were talking about in asking for a knock sensor for a non-vtec motor. He should have asked for your engine code and corrected you. So I would say that the error is yours really for assuming!

I guess it’s safe to say that your fans don’t work like they should huh??

Anyways, no need for calling us ladies for correcting you and possibly mis guiding another member by offering false information.

You also need to accept the fact that you are running the wrong part on your car and are missing a key sensor in your DA’s cooling system. Expensive mistake!

Regardless the OP knows what the deal is and hopefully now you do too.

39

[QUOTE=da92nv;2104323]^^

The problem here is not whether we are sensitive or not, it’s the fact that you are offering completely wrong information to someone when u haven’t a clue as to what your talking about.

Do you have any idea what the purpose of the knock sensor is? Probably not…

If so can u explain why you would need one on an LS motor?

I doubt the dealer was an idiot, but more like he probably figured u didn’t know what you were talking about in asking for a knock sensor for a non-vtec motor. He should have asked for your engine code and corrected you. So I would say that the error is yours really for assuming!

I guess it’s safe to say that your fans don’t work like they should huh??

Anyways, no need for calling us ladies for correcting you and possibly mis guiding another member by offering false information.

You also need to accept the fact that you are running the wrong part on your car and are missing a key sensor in your DA’s cooling system. Expensive mistake!

Regardless the OP knows what the deal is and hopefully now you do too.[/QUOTE]

:violin:

40

I’m not offended, I’m just correcting you, that’s all.
Can you tell me where on this 01’ B18B1 harness there would be a knock sensor?

017 37240-PT0-023 SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (DENSO)
Well here’s an 01’ GSR harness how about #2, I’m pretty sure that wasn’t there on the B1 harness, now was it?

2 30530-PV1-A01 SENSOR ASSY., KNOCK
19 37240-PT0-014 SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC)

Just sayin.