Okay, I was just driving along and all of a sudden the Stereo turns off, the Clock goes out, and my Cigarette lighter doesnt work. I’ve checked the Radio Fuse and some other fuses under teh fuse box. But they are NOT blown. The Dome lights also dont work. And the DOOR AJAR light stays on all the time, even when the door is 100% closed.
Any suggestions?
FIXED, I’m a noob. It was a fuse.
I’m curious about this, as well. When I first got my 'teg about 3 year ago it did that for about 3 hours after I first got it running, and then it started operating normally. I’ve been curious ever since about that phenomenon.
Believe it has something to do with the ICU(Integrated Control Unit) from what I have been searching on the forums here. These are links I have seen posted to help with this problem. Not sure if that will fix all, or if its related but I think its a start
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthre...5&highlight=ICU
Where it’s located ^
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthre...0&highlight=ICU
How to fix it ^
I’m on my second ICU all ready… Dammit.
Although the ICU may have something to do with the door ajar light, [ICU supplies a ground to dome light and/or door ajar light if drivers door is open, drivers door supplies a ground to the ICU if open unlike pass. and rear doors, [if a 4 door] that supply a ground directly to the dome and door ajar lights.
Anyway… The ICU has nothing to do with the radio, lighter or clock, the fuses that need to be checked, [and just because they look good does not mean they are] you will need a multimeter or at least a test light to be sure.
Fuse 14 - 15A in under dash fuse box, is dome light, map lights, radio constant, clock constant, and I believe lighter in a g2, it is hot at all times.
Fuse 22 - 10A in under dash fuse box, is acc. power for radio and clock it is hot in acc. and run
Fuse 23 - 7.5A in under dash fuse box is ign. power for the door and trunk/hatch warning lights, it is hot in run and start. If the door and trunk/hatch ajar warning lights work it is a good bet that fuse 23 is good and the door ajar warning light is getting a ground from the ICU or a pass. door.
Do other things controlled by the ICU work?
Front side marker lights.
Rear window defog.
Intermittent wipers.
Key in ign. and seat belt warning chime
Also I would check the dome light bulb, and that you have power on the white/blue wire at the dome light and a ground on the green/red when a door is open.
Check the above and let me know. 
94
I feel like a noob. 
It was just a blown fuse.
Then the question becomes, why did the fuse blow? :hmm:84
Instead of starting a whole new thread on the problem ill just add on wats happening with mine. Most of that stuff is happening to me except that the door light doesnt come when the door is closed, but here the freaky part. When I go to make a left turn not right, the door and the clock in the dash blink with the left blinker.
I found a blown fuse the one for the cigarette lighter, map lights, dome lights and I replaced it only for it to pop again. I tried a few more and they all blew.
A little help will do good. I hate electrical problems, but if someone helps me with this, while im down there i might just do the fuel pump cut off switch, but first things first. Help me with the blown fuse cause my radio doesnt go on and I need that so much soon. I’m going on a pretty long trip and I wont be listening to nothing.
Thanks So much.
if I dont get any replies, I’m going to make my own thread.
I had a problem like this before. My clock turned off, my dash lights, turn signals, and no lights worked, and the door light was on…turned out to be a power line in my headunit wasn’t capped off, and was making contact and kept causing my fuses to blow.
hmmm Ill have to check that out when I get home, That may be it. But also I found this big black box (looked like a relay, said 30/40 and some other words, ill take a pic if need be.) it wasnt bolted to anything but look like it was a ring terminal for something. The major thing is the previous owner had an aftermarket alarm and mustve ripped it out before he sold it and now there are so many wires underneath I dont know whats what, I wish i can get like a diagram and take out what is not needed cause alot of it is hanging down by my brake pedal.
That is what you will have to do, remove all non OEM wiring and repair any damaged OEM wiring, start by removing the lower dash trim and knee bolster, [drivers side.
Find any loos wire and follow it to where it is connected to the cars wiring, disconnect and repair any damage to OEM wire and use electric tape to cover any “open” leads.
Pictures would be a big help, the relay is probably a starter cut relay and was not remove because the starter wire would have to be reconnected, as it was cut to install the relay.:hmm:94
Yeah Ill definately post up some pictures tomorrow after I get off of work. And I already have followed a few wires. One goes right to this little red light that doesnt nothing now. We’ll see tomorrow. And I’ll check the radio “loose” end if any and butt them off other than I’ll have pics up tomorrow.
Thanks.
I took a look at the radio wires and everything seems fine, but I will add some pics of that too just in case. Im gonna have a friend come over and help me “aka watch me follow wires through my car” As for the relay thing, if it is for the starter should I even mess with it or just leave it be?
The wires in the radio harness you need to worry about are the red/black (illumination), white/blue (constant power) and yellow/red (switched power).
Yes you should remove everything that is not OEM, including the starter cut relay, or you can possibly use it.:idea:94
Here are the pics I have an idea of whats not oem but I dont want to be ripping out stuff I dont know where it belongs too. Help is appreciated thanks. And thanks so far.
yes that is a gash in my finger from welding yesterday.
Ok so i went back outside to follow the door wires and take them off I did so then tried a 15 amp fuse in 14 and it blew. I found out I had an extra 20 and tried it. It sparked then the radio turned on. I put in another 15 then it worked fine. I guess im in the clear but I will end up taking the rest of it out, I just dont know how. I made it a little neater inside at least.
Looks like I showed my cars whos boss haha.
My god what a cluster f#*k.:stare:
Did you manage to get rid of all of it?
Be very careful with circuit you replaced the fuse in, it must have had a dead short for the fuse to go as soon as you installed it, by installing the bigger, [higher amperage] fuse you probably blew apart the short, but there is still a potential short waiting to happen at the same spot, shorts do not fix themselves.:whisper:94
Yeah I didnt think it would be that easy. Its just getting a bit chilly and dark outside so I called it a day. What I did remove was a few bundles of wire, the wires that lead to the doors and thats basically it. But, since it was getting dark while I was putting everything back on, I noticed my dome light wasnt on and my drivers door signal isnt on when the door is open, but thats it. I’ll have to find the short somewhere.
To get rid of the rest of the stuff I learn what to reconnect afterwards so I wont have any problems.
By the way, Cluster F^&$ Is probably the best way to describe it. That was all the stuff hanging by my pedals.
All in all I learned a bit of all this stuff, but there is so much more…
I guess if you can lend a hand for some more help in any more suggestions that would be great.
Thanks.
Does the pass. door turn on the dome light and door open icon?
If so, your problem is not a short, remove the drivers door pin switch, unplug it and touch the terminal to ground if the dome light comes on replace the pin-switch, or you can try and clean it up, if dome light still will not come on, you have an open circuit, [not a short] or you have a problem with the ICU.
Check other functions of the ICU, do the intermittent wipers work, the rear window defog, the front side markers, seat belt, lights still on and key still in ign. warning chimes, check and make sure they all work.
Yea I will be around, 2-3 times a day.
94
Yes, the passenger door makes everything turn on as my driver door keeps everything dark. All the functions work for my ICU. Maybe a stupid question, but where is the pin switch for the door?