Code 6 ECT sensor, Wont start now

here a couple weeks ago on my way into work my check engine came on. car was running fine so i went ahead the rest of the way to work about 4 miles. When i got there i checked the codes and it threw a code 6 which is Crank Angle according to the teg tips, but have also dug up it is Engine Coolant Sensor.

The next morning when i went to leave work it didnt want to start but finally did after the engien turned over a few times. drove it home without any problems.

the following day i tried to start it and it started and idled ok but as soon as you touch the gas it would bog and choke and die right away.

Now whenever i try to start it the engine turns over but doesnt ever fire and start up.

I am getting Fuel(42psi on my gauge) and i am still getting spark out the disributor.

what could the problem be?

Just went and looked at it the ECT sensor plug came loose which would explain the could but the car still isnt starting, I will probably try to reset teh codes in the morning and see if that helps. if that doestn what else could be the culprit.

The Colt Turbo is fun to drive and all but i am growing homesick for the teggy and need to get it back running.

is this the stock motor? crank angle would be in your distributor, you would still get spark but it might be off. try getting the distributor tested at a cskauto or autozone or something.

lifetime warrenty distributors at autozone. :slight_smile:

I don’t think it has anything to do with the crank angle, from searching i have found that code 6 is actually the ECT sensor and 4 is crank angle.

the ECT plug was loose so that would account for the code, but what would cause the car to just not start at all? Battery is brand new, o2 is a Brand new denso, New Alt., pulling the ECU fuse doesnt help any, car is has perfect timing. was in great running shape before i threw the ECT code…

could it be the Main Fuel Relay? But then i wouldnt have fuel at my pressure gauge of the filter would I?

any help or ideas are greatly appreciated

im sure it would be your distributor if you got code6. the main relay shouldnt be the cause of that code. its your distributor im sure of it:

here is the code list
0 - ECU
1 - Oxygen Sensor
3 - MAP Sensor
5 - MAP Sensor
6 - Crank Angle
7 - Throttle Angle
8 - TDC Position
9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position
10 - Intake Air Temperature
12 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System
13 - Atmosphere Pressure
14 - Electronic Air Control
15 - Ignition Output Signal
16 - Fuel Injector
17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
20 - Electronic Load Detector
22 - VTEC System Malfunction
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - O2 Sensor
43 - Fuel Supply System
45 - System Too Rich or Too Lean
48 - Primarry Heated O2 Sensor
54 - Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor
61 - Primary O2 Sensor Circuit
63 - Secondary O2 Sensor Circuit
67 - Catalyst System
70 - Automatic Transaxle
71-74 - Random Misfire
80 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
90 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
91 - Fuel Tank Pressure Circuit
92 - Evaporative Emission Control System Insufficient

Code 6 is the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor(which came unplugged so that explains the code), it was a typo under teg tips.

so maybe just a coincidence that it wont start now and it is the MFR. If it was the MFR would i be getting fuel to the fuel filter where my pressure gauge is?

if it is the distributor i may have a spare laying around so i may be good on that grounds.

no you wouldnt the fuel pump runs off that relay and wouldnt power on therefore not powering it up and causing no to VERY minimal fuel pressure.

thats what i figured, so i can cancel that one out. I am getting about 42PSI at the filter.

i am getting spark from the plug wires right off the distributor, so that couldnt be it would it?

if one of your sensors are jacked it could be sparking too late/too early

make sure the rotors screw for the distributor didnt come loose. that would cause a popping sound out the exhaust some times too and it would still have spark.

I’ll try and play around with it in the morning after work and see what i can come up with.

swapped out the distributor today, that did help any.i am just lost on this ine. next i am thinking the injectors arent feeding any fuel.

i am pretty sure it has something to do with the injectors right now. i got the battery charged all the way back up. when i try starting it it is turning over fast enough i can hear the poofs of air coming out the exhaust so every thing is turning good inside the engine.

now what would cause the injectors to just stop flowing all of the sudden like this. from running fine to wont start at all in just a couple days. could my ECU have taken a crap on me? I did just install an Autometer Air/fuel gauge and i wired it straight to the ECU, could this be part of the problem? all connections are with connectors not just half done with tape.

i am going to try and get a noid light set and see if it will tell me anymore.

what year is the car ?

92 Gs

i really doubt its your injectors then… ecu’s do burn up very seldomly. i doubt the a/f gauge you installed did it, unless you grabbed power from the ecu also, and then it grounded out in turn blowing the ecu fuse under the hood.

Hmmm, it shouldnt be the gauge then. Its powered of the freepin in the fuse box and grounded off the chassis right on the drivers side.

heres a quick vid that i uploaded through google that may help figure out why it wont start.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7554098554521021474

very nicely done, it is DEF a misfire in the timing procedure, either your timing is WAY off or the distributor is the problem. im about 95% sure.

yeah i was starting to think that last night but just couldnt put my finger on it. i had a spare distributor(which worked fine) so i know that wasnt the problem.

Both cam gears still have the timing marks lined dead on so i will check here when theres som light out to make sure they are still good at TDC

just went and messed with it a bit and found this, both 1 & 4 are at the top while my cams are like this