cooling and ducting using stock bumper

what are most of you guys doing to keep intake temps down and good airflow utilizing the OEM bumper?

I am currently using a intercooler that takes up most of the space in the grille and might run into some cooling issues due to airflow and I’m trying to get an idea of what will work for me and others alike.

like most here, our engine bays are crammed pack with little to no space between the intercooler and radiator and if it’s getting air, it’s usually the hot air from the bay.

I am using a mishimoto half size rad (can’t utilize a full size, limited to space) and a FAL fan. any suggestions are appreciated. thanks

my setup sounds about the same. the best thing to do is to fabricate a block off plate to block the hole the rad no longer takes up. stock civics come with this plate to force the air through the rad and not around it.

I would love to find this plate you speak of… sounds like what I’ll need. I just don’t see how if at all that I’ll be able to duct something directly to the rad without cutting a whole lot of stuff out(metal mainly)

if your car is black you can get away with the holesaw to the front bumper in front of where the radiator is.
you could run two fans, one on either side drawing air to the front of the car, but heatsoak on the intercooler could become and issue.

Ive ran 2 fans in the past and I can’t say for sure if was efficient or not, but that was on my full size rad and never ran 2 (one in the front and one in the back) like you speak of. would that make it inefficient at freeway speeds, seeing how the front would be kind of blocked? It does sound good and I have 3 extra fans…wondering now if I should try it. the fan being used as a pusher would pull air in and the one being used as a puller would pull heat from the radiator…any other ideas…I like that one weasel, just not sure it would work the way I picture it… the fans would both run full-time also if that makes any sense.

your fans turn off at freeway speeds when they are setup from the factory. your car is traveling faster than a fan can blow air at that point, having the fans on all the time is redundant and puts unneeded strain on the alternator.
last night i thought you were talking about cooling in general, not airflow. sorry i misunderstood, as i was high out of my mind for the first time in a while :slight_smile:
you have a half size rad, i would make a shroud to keep air pushing through your rad.
E: i see that was already offered, try that for cooling at speeds. Kaminari makes a front bumper that isnt too outrageous, kinda looks like a 92-93 bumper but has a larger air dam and brake vents off to the side, like the 90-91 does. i can only imagine that would be about it as far as not cutting into the body work.
im going to take a hole saw to my front bumper when i go boosted. i dont care about looks so it wont bother me. if you dont care about aesthetics, go for it.

I wouldnt mind cutting the bumper but I just got it painted and if I can(key words) I would refrain from doing so.

I cut the hood prior to getting it painted so I have functional vents over the turbo and manifold. I just don’t know what other options I have for ducting? it’s a tight fit and looks like it’s going to be a pita.

I have yet to run my car with the new setup but I have run into this issue in the past but had a body kit and it was simply fixed with a good radiator and fan setup. wanna see what will work.

on another note, would a small scoop, catching air from the bottom of the car up to the rad work the same or would that cause a deadzone for heat to cultivate between my rad and intercooler? just trying to get some simple ideas that make a difference. thanks

anyone know much about closing off the driverside next to the rad to direct air to the rad? I didn’t get much info on this from a guy that was going to use it and why he refrained from doing so? is that going to affect air flowing to the IC if it’s behind it? I didn’t understand or still don’t understand why he didn’t use it.

to me it almost seems like the idea was scrapped because airflow would more than likely go through only one portion of his IC and create a deadzone for heat behind his IC that is blocked thus creating an insufficient setup? i don’t know if that is true, just an idea.

if you shroud behind the IC it wont block ariflow, it might create a slight hot spot at idle and lower speeds, but moving air/driving air will travel until it hits something, and then go around it. your IC will not be affected by a shroud behind it.

the turbo sits in the space that a full size radiator would occupy right? that kinda kills any proper shroud, as you would want to mount it on the engine bay side of the radiator, attached to the face of the radiator that faces the motor, so it creates a slight pocket for the air to “cushion” off of and flow in the direction that you bend the shroud.
you could run it on the AC condenser side of the radiator support and affix it to the face of the radiator that faces the front of the car, but i dont know if it would work as well, as air might flow around the shroud and not through the radiator.

[QUOTE=smokeintegra;2158348]anyone know much about closing off the driverside next to the rad to direct air to the rad? I didn’t get much info on this from a guy that was going to use it and why he refrained from doing so? is that going to affect air flowing to the IC if it’s behind it? I didn’t understand or still don’t understand why he didn’t use it.

to me it almost seems like the idea was scrapped because airflow would more than likely go through only one portion of his IC and create a deadzone for heat behind his IC that is blocked thus creating an insufficient setup? i don’t know if that is true, just an idea.[/QUOTE]

thats the block off plate i was telling you about. i just got my piece of aluminum to fabricate mine. ill be doing it this weekend.

Not sure what your budget is, but you should check this out for you intercooler. We are using one of these kits, plus the intake charge kit for our shop G2.

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/cryo2-system-components/cryo2-intercooler-sprayer-kit

Weasel, I have my radiator fan mounted on the backside of the rad like stock. I’m just trying to figure out if closing off the driverside would aid in cooling because I know air takes the path of least resistance. that would be a good idea if it works.havent drivien my car much lately but would like to find a solution so that theres no issues later on down the road. the DEI cry02 seems to me like a bandaid to efficient cooling. I know it works but that wouldnt aid airflow which is my concern.

the air passing around the radiator is not cooling as well as if it were to pass through a radiator.

a shroud will help. a friend with a k-swapped civic tells me that water temps are consistently 20* cooler after long, hard track driving. his is just a big flat piece of sheetmetal from an old car hood cut down to fit
its also NA so hes got a lot less heat generating devices up front than a turbo car.

i took off the passenger side fog light. That solved my heat problem fast and easy without having to cut anything. I will be enlarging the hole on the bracket soon.

that sounds good but I don’t have the 3 piece headlights. I have a one piece, though it sounds tempting but I would never have fogs again if I cut that out.

yea my DA is not a daily driver so i could care less about fogs.

mine is not a daily either but I still wouldnt want to get rid of my fogs. anyone else? advice? theres a thread going on about the spal fan. sounds like a go for. from what there saying. it sounds as though this is what you should have as far as rad fans…

i have the 13" spal puller and it’s epic! it’s a must on a turbo car.

redtegra, what are your ECT’s at with this fan?

the thing is that the fan comes on a lot less because it is way more efficient. so if you’re on the edge of overheating or overheating a little then it cools down real quick and keeps the temp nice. with my universal 12" fan it took much longer to get the temps down and would creep sometimes under a lot of boosting.

i have a cooling issue though and was running in the 220* range and managed to bring it to the 205* but still running hot. made a block off plate but havn’t driven the car yet to see the difference it makes.