I just want to share with you guys my success in installing a custom push start button in my in 1992 Integra GSR. It took me a while to get it work for my car because of the wiring and I recieved a defected module from Advanced keys. Their customer service was awesome they were able to get me a working module. In the end I was able to make a clean wiring setup that just plug and play without cutting the original connectors. Below is a picture of my push start button.
It’s not difficult installing a push start if you know how to hook up an alarm. I will do a write-up when I have time. I am so busy right now. I still have so many things to do to my car. The push start work similar to a Lexus push start since it uses the same button. The push start only work if you disarm your alarm because the alarm gives the signal to the push start module to turn on. The basic functions are push it one time your car radio will turn on, second time the car will be in “on” mode, and the third time the car will turn off. To start the car, you will have to step on the brake and the clutch and push the button once if you program it to read your tachometer and to shut off the engine step on the brake and hold the push start button until the engine is off. The disadvantage is your steering wheel is no longer lock. My suggestion to get a steering wheel lock like the club. That’s what I have in my car. Overall, it’s very convenient to me because I no longer need my key to start the car.
I’m not digging the chrome around the button, but the install looks pretty slick otherwise.
So are you just rocking the stand alone button switch module from their website? Does that module require the use of a “access key” or not? There isn’t a good description of the stand-alone module.
How about a review of how the product works? I’m especially interested if you also got the “smart entry” as, while the push start doesn’t really appeal to me, the keyless, fobless entry and auto window roll-up does…
EDIT: I got distracted while responding and it looks like you already answered one of my questions but I’ll leave this the same anyway.
[QUOTE=buymysoul;2194123]I’m not digging the chrome around the button, but the install looks pretty slick otherwise.
So are you just rocking the stand alone button switch module from their website? Does that module require the use of a “access key” or not? There isn’t a good description of the stand-alone module.
How about a review of how the product works? I’m especially interested if you also got the “smart entry” as, while the push start doesn’t really appeal to me, the keyless, fobless entry and auto window roll-up does…
EDIT: I got distracted while responding and it looks like you already answered one of my questions but I’ll leave this the same anyway.[/QUOTE]
The chrome ring came with the buttton. You can always paint the ring to a color of your choice. I only get the stand alone because if you get the access key you don’t have the option to do anything else like an alarm will offer you. What I did I combine my alarm with the stand alone push start module. The fobless is basically using a RFID technlogy, which is built into a card that you carry in your wallet just like the new Lexus. It will lock your car when you walk away from the car and unlock your car when you approach the car. I was about to get it but I like to have more options. You can get an alarm that have 5 or more channels and you can do so much to it like adding a roll up and roll down window, pop your trunk and ect. The roll-window module is same module from DEI that you can get for a lot cheaper. I will give their product a 4 stars out of 5 since they shipped me a defected module the first time but everything else is great.
Yeah I have the key to the club, I only use the club when I’m in a bad neighborhood or if i’m going to be gone long. Now i don’t need the club anymore because my car is wired with gps tracking device. I had my car stolen once and stripped. I don’t want that to happen again.
No, he mentioned that he does not need the key at all. But the alarm must be disarmed first before it can be started.
To OP, there is no way to make the car crank longer huh? That could be a potential problem right there. I have an alarm/starter installed in my car, but if it’s extremely cold outside and I haven’t started it for 1 or 2 days my remote starter doesn’t crank long enough to start my car. It’s also hooked up to use tach sensing, but the starter module only cranks for a maximum of 3-4 seconds. If the car doesnt start, it tries again 2 more times. So when it’s severely cold (-35*c), I have to go outside and use the key to start it up. Without a way to use the key to manually start the car, you could potentially run into a problem one day (probably not weather related though, seeing as your in California)
[QUOTE=wise_old_dragon;2194255]No, he mentioned that he does not need the key at all. But the alarm must be disarmed first before it can be started.
To OP, there is no way to make the car crank longer huh? That could be a potential problem right there. I have an alarm/starter installed in my car, but if it’s extremely cold outside and I haven’t started it for 1 or 2 days my remote starter doesn’t crank long enough to start my car. It’s also hooked up to use tach sensing, but the starter module only cranks for a maximum of 3-4 seconds. If the car doesnt start, it tries again 2 more times. So when it’s severely cold (-35*c), I have to go outside and use the key to start it up. Without a way to use the key to manually start the car, you could potentially run into a problem one day (probably not weather related though, seeing as your in California)[/QUOTE]
i believe you can allow your alarm to crank more than 3-4 seconds you need to program the duration of the cranking. It should be in the alarm installation manual. The person who install your alarm should be able to program it. As for me i have two options I can press the button once to start the car that uses the tach sensor or I can hold onto the button until the car start, which is like manual mode.
s2k cluster in a DA too much money to start with. Required a lot of modification. One of the biggest issue is converting the speedometer from cable to electronics and temperature needs conversion as well. I seen people have try it. Not yet a success story. If I have time and fund I’ll think about it.
there was an old member that went by the name G2Racer that not only did the S2k cluster but a write up for it aswell! If I remember correctly, it did take quite a bit of work to get it functioning properly.
I remember seeing the thread in the arcives somewhere but cant seem to find at this moment.