DA Starter Relay with Pics

For the last couple of years, I have had a real annoying problem with starting – every now and then, but especially in the summer and after I’ve been driving for a while, I while turn the key to start and click nothing happens. Starter does not turn over at all even though power comes on… Diagnosing starting problems has been gone over in many threads on g2ic, so I won’t. To make a long story short, the starter relay which the shop manual says is part of the starting system for 90-93 manual transmission teg is an elusive little mofo. The dealer at first told me it didn’t exist, and all the shops I spoke to said, “no dood, doesn’t have one. Must be the starter, battery, maybe main relay…” I found that hard to believe since the manual says it exists, but unfortunately does not give a detailed diagram of where it is other than “to the right of the heater unit”. So I took it on myself to take the dash apart a bit in the hopes of avoiding another push start, possibly uphill :think:

After removing passenger-side panel, center-console, and glove box (arrow points to location):

Before removing the AC evaporator box:

Evaporator box removed:

Relay out, chillin on its connector:

The villain:

The ac’ra dealer had it for $40 but for some reason needed my VIN number to look it up.

Wow that might be what is crapping on my car. Does the solder trick work on this like the MFR? Have the relay part number?

the one I got was “39794-SK7-003”, but when I got it from the dealer I just told him “denso 056700-9250”, and he asked for my VIN… :think:

might be if you already checked your battery, starter, etc,…

thanx for the info i have a push botton on both my DA’s now i can fix them.

turns out in my case it was probably not the starter relay at fault. I did not test it due to laziness. I suppose $40 @ the ac’ra dealer is still better than $400 @ the shop if you don’t mind mechanical werk.

After replacing the relay, it seemed the starting problem had gone away,… until it got hot out again. Now the starter would kick after a few key turns – an improvement. Not satisfied with this result, I pulled the starter and performed a very mild overhaul as the dealer had suggested:


this was the plunger contacts before cleaning


after cleaning

I figured since the starter also needs a good ground, it would be a good idea to cleanup the mating surface to the tranny:

there were a couple of corrosion marks that were pretty obvious, and otherwise the surface was dirty and oily. I cleaned it with some fine steel wool and a rag soaked in brake cleaner (wd-40 would prolly be just as good just don’t get it on the clutch… :bawl:).

so far it’s been a week and the starter kicks the first time every time even when it’s hot out and the engine’s been running. so far so good :slight_smile:

I had a similar problem but I looked around a bit and figured out it was the Main Relay. typical problem for 90-93 Integras as you all know.

I’ve been having a very similar problem with my coupe. sometimes I will just get a “click” a few times other times it will try to turn over…

I have another starter just hanging out in the garage, but just havent done anything about it…I guess I should replace it huh? Then i will clean up the one thats in there now…

Good write up tho…

This is comming up as a/c relay??? ( 056700-9250 )

my google genie is telling me “RELAY ASSY., POWER (4P) (056700-9250) (DENSO)”

By the way the problem came back. Turning to the ignition switch, under-dash wiring, clutch interlock switch, and vampire taps for the alarm :squint:

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All the starter relay does is inturrupt the signal from the ignition to the starter UNLESS the clutch is pressed down.
When the clutch is pressed it allows the signal from the key cylinder to go to the starter.

[QUOTE=sikredteg;2036478]All the starter relay does is inturrupt the signal from the ignition to the starter UNLESS the clutch is pressed down.
When the clutch is pressed it allows the signal from the key cylinder to go to the starter.[/QUOTE]

yep. So either the clutch interlock switch or starter relay could cause the starter not to turn over. But from other threads I read sounds like ppl don’t see the starter relay fail that often?

The shop manual has you check battery & cables/ground, if they’re good then try jumping positive to the starter solenoid (in neutral with distributor unplugged). If it still doesn’t turn over, starter’s bad – if it does turn over then you’re supposed to go through the drill testing wiring, ignition switch, starter relay, clutch switch, fuse,… :argh:

in my case it’s a bit worse because I have an after-market alarm, and the problem is intermittent so I have to catch it in the act… :frowning:

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hahaha…

weird stuff (doing catholic crucifix and crossing fingers), I pulled apart my dash last weekend and tested the ignition switch, clutch interlock switch - both good. Looked at the vampire connectors for the alarm and muttered some blessings (curses?) under my breath. Tested the battery - 12.65, under load 10 something…

Couldn’t really figure out what the starter problem could be aside from testing individual wires, but since I disconnected the ignition and clutch interlock switches to test them and put them back together, and cursed at the vampires under the dash, it has started every time hot or cold, on the freeway for hours, whatever… :dance:

see me next week for the bad news :dozing:

I removed mine without removing the evaporator box. I had my center console and pass. side knee bolster out, and was able to unbolt that big ass relay whatever it is thats partially covering it, and remove the starter relay with a long screwdriver.

[QUOTE=sloppysleeper;2042302]hahaha…

weird stuff (doing catholic crucifix and crossing fingers), I pulled apart my dash last weekend and tested the ignition switch, clutch interlock switch - both good. Looked at the vampire connectors for the alarm and muttered some blessings (curses?) under my breath. Tested the battery - 12.65, under load 10 something…

Couldn’t really figure out what the starter problem could be aside from testing individual wires, but since I disconnected the ignition and clutch interlock switches to test them and put them back together, and cursed at the vampires under the dash, it has started every time hot or cold, on the freeway for hours, whatever… :dance:

see me next week for the bad news :dozing:[/QUOTE]

Dude have you changed your MFR yet? sounds like thats it.

Yea for me tinkering with the distributor rotor, MFR solder contacts, and other smaller electrical weaknesses fixed the problem for only a couple weeks. I eventually just needed to get a brand new MFR.

masta fuel relay? yea that was one of the first things I did since it was so easy and the dealer said that was prolly it. But it didn’t fix the problem - MFR only controls fuel right? my problem was with getting the starter to even turn over. But now it’s fixed :rockon:

starter started f…ing with me again so I had it checked out by a rebuild shop:

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2061774&postcount=5545

:cross:

starter works much better now as long as battery voltage is up. Am installing a voltmeter and thinking of getting a bigger/new battery to see if I can get to the bottom of this biotch.

Got maps?

:slight_smile:

lol, my head hurts… @_@

I’m having that trouble too… I’ll check the ignition and the Starter Relay now that you showed me where that thing is.

Winter’s here and my car has been starting up liek magic :slight_smile:

Optima batteries are THE BEST! The one I had before the one I have now lasted me longer than 5 years AND may have lasted longer if I knew that my Alternator was gonna fail on me two weeks after I bought that other new Optima battery… Each optima battery is about $100 after mail-in rebate but w/e.

Temperature DOES affect that starting problem… If the ignition and the starter relay are OK then I’ll go with the added Ground to the starter. =)

Thanks for the pictures too man!