[QUOTE=sloppysleeper;2068956]Got maps?
:)[/QUOTE]
Just curious how things are holding up. Are we starting gracefully now?
yes suh… teggie’s been starting up all day no prolem (knock on wood). Been keeping an eye on the voltmeter and since all the polishing up, tightening connections, and overhauling/replacing stuff I get consistent 12v before cranking, 14.5v after starting instead of 11 
. The biggest change I think was after fixing the alternator issue…
I just read through this entire thread and this is the exact problem my teg has had for years!! I also have an aftermarket alarm but it’s long since been out of use (before I ever got the car). So where and what the alarm was connected to is a mystery. So the only thing I didn’t catch was you said the biggest help was fixing your alternator issue, what issue was that? Thanks for the write up man!
smoking my head against a wall!
Ok my car does this no matter what the condition is like. Hot of cold. I hear the started solenoid just click then randomly it will just start. lately it has been getting worse. I will go for a 15 min drive. turn off the car then 1 min later it won’t start again. after 100 or so turns of the key it fires right up! I’m going to runs some test and be back with some results. any help will be great!
So of course when I got do the testing the car fires right up before the key is even all the way to the last position. Battery voltage was 12.71 and running voltage was 14.32. My question is that if I hear that one loud click(which i assume is the starter solenoid moving over and making contact). Then what is between that and the starter motor that can cause a intermittent start?
When you hear the starter motor turn a bit then stop, it is the starter. this the the symptom that you begin to get in hot weather and gets worse over time.
If you still doubt that it may be your starter, then do this; get a voltmeter and keep it in your car. keep the passenger knee panel off and unscrew the starter relay from its location and let it hang down. The next time the car won’t start put your hand on the relay and try to feel for the clicking, or listen for the clicking of the relay. It may be hard to hear of feel since the starter turns a bit and makes too much noise. So figure out which pin of the relay is the output of the dry contacts and probe it to see if 12V is present when you turn the key.
Ok I will try that and what you said make alot of sense. thanx. One thing im still puzzled about and i dunno if this matters is that when it won’t start, it won’t turn. not even a bit. then when i get that lucky turn it fires up like normal. so if it is what your saying. Why is it intermittent and should the starter motor turn at all?
Did this and my relay is fine. the last possible this is the starter contacts. So i will let everyone know how it goes.
good info may need it anytime soon saved 
I finally found the starter relay. Thanks for the pics. I didn’t want to take out the big bulky black box, so I just used a long screwdriver as well. Overall, getting the starter relay out isn’t so bad, it just takes your willing to take the panels apart. Lets hope this works
replaced the starter relay but still won’t turn over. arrrhhhhgh. should i just buy a new starter. my starter is used but it passed the test at autozone
Which autozone test did it pass - the starter itself is good?
I would get a voltmeter and put it on the battery. Should read 12+. Then get a friend to try to turn the engine over while reading volts at battery. Shouldn’t drop below 9-10 volts.
They say usually starter problems have to do with the battery, cables, contacts, sometimes ignition switch or starter relay. I had a rebuild shop tell me the stock starters in the DAs are pretty much bullet-proof unless they’re abused (low voltage, etc,…)
um i forgot the solenoid plunger contacts can get jacked the f** up, but I think that happened with mine because there was a low voltage condition…
I cleaned them as described in the Shop Manual, but the rebuild shop I took the starter to just replaced them.
how did it go? There’s also the clutch switch, and ignition switch itself… :tapfing:
The clutch interlock switch seems difficult to get to. Is there a easy way to remove it? I’m thinking that’s the problem.
Might be. Anything up under the dash seems to be kind-of a biotch to get to, but it would be nice if that was the only problem. I’ve never tried removing it, but seen where it is. Have you tested it?
My starter passed the bench test too. But when i took it apart I knew I needed a new on. I pick on up at a scrap yard for 50 buck and the car has not once had a starting problem. Compared to before where it would leave me stranded twice a day. I’m going to be doing some work soon so i may just pull the starter and show how easy it is to replace.
I decided to bypassed the two wires for the clutch interlock switch, after trying to get my hands to the switch. I gave up after an hour, and decided to just splice the two wires and put them together with black electrical tape. Still, no crank. I may have to check all the fuses again and even check the power to the starter to see if it needs replace. Hopefully, thats it. Thanks
For reference:
Since Honda has discontinued the starter relay; search for “Standard Motor Products RY171” I can verify it works!
I had this problem with intermittent starting and car not even cranking when you turn the key to start. I replaced the ignition switch in January and have been fine since one month ago. It started doing it again! I’m hoping i didnt do a bad job installing the ignition switch because I had to splice into the wires and rewire the alarm into it and I’m not a wiring pro.
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