This is a must otherwise the ecu try’s to correct any changes you make!
okay so i did my timing today by adjusting my distributor. My distributor is set advance all the way and the arrow on the plastic line up like between the 16 degree and the line above the 16 degree. Is this okay to run on? Now also for the over heating part, i did flush my cooling system out and put everything back in etc. everything was fine my lower hose felt warm/hot unlike before where it just felt normal. So i was like okay now that is working properly, but yet saw my temp gauge going up and then back down so stupid me went to unscrew the temperature sensor on the head. then screw it back in, hook back up the wire to it and now my gauge reads like normal, but now my hose are back to the same and I can even open up the radiator cap even when the car has been running for quite awhile already, warmed up enough. So i think it has caught air in it again, i try bleeding it from the bolt but yet nothing is coming out unless I open the radiator cap. If the cap is left close, no coolant will come out through the bleed bolt. I also did bleed it through the radiator cap as well, just keep topping it off. Is there another/better way to bleed out the air?
could it be because i have the fan rewired to be on everytime the car is on? Should I undo the fan wiring and leave it back to stock, then try bleeding it?
I would not have the fan wired up to be on all the times as that is not the way it is from the factory
i did it because of the same reason, overheating and coolant not flowing right, but after i flush everything, i did undo the fan and hook it back like factory and did the bleed, it worked fine. Just not sure it was because i hook the fan back up to be on all the time when car is on or was it because it caught air back into the system when i remove the temp sensor. Ill just have to do it tomorrow on a cold start with radiator cap off, undo the fan wiring and go from there
alrighty got my cooling system fix again, i guess it was the fan causing it after all. Set the timing to about right and now the car runs a lot different/a lot better 
its time to attempt smog for second time! WISH ME LUCK GUYS!
good luck, bud
okay so i went for another try and yet it FAILED! well it still not burning up all the fuel in the system out. it is still reading high! Now the thing is my timing is weird, cuz like it was way too advance before when i took it for first smog so came back and redid the timing, but shouldnt it suppose to be retarded since it was already too advance? I retard it and the mark is just further away from the marking so i advance it all the way on the distributor and it got close to the 16 degree marking. Im guessing i will have to redo the whole belt to get it right? Also i went around asking places to see if they know what could be causing it to have such high readings etc and they told me it need valve adjustment and probably a new catalytic converter. Can these two things help?
What were the readings this time? It is possible it needs a new converter but if you are not sure of the timing I would start there. If you are having trouble setting it you could take it to a shop and have them do it. It shouldn’t cost much. It would be a good idea to check the engine for tune up as well. Check air filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.
Didn’t do a full ran on the thing he only checked it and hook it up to the maching etc but since it’s still high he said it’s gonna be the same thing so um yeah even tho the converter not clog or anything it can still be the issue? As for timing everytime I advance it on the distributor it get close to the 16 degree but when I retard it it goes further away
you’ve got advancing and retarding mixed up. but really, that doesn’t matter. all that matters is that you get timing set to within 18-14*btdc. i don’t know which station performed the test, but they should have completed it and given you a readout. otherwise, how will you know the differences of what you’ve done have made? what we need is the new readings complete with timing readings. that is essential to diagnosis. i mean, when you go to mcdonalds and order a big mac meal and they only give you the fries, wouldn’t you say wtf?
Yeah as of now the distributor is advance all the way and at the 16 degree well my exactly but off a lil um well the guy didnt want to do the whole test cuz he know it was not gonna passed etc I mean he did put on the thing n went like 15 mph and the reading is still too high! So could adjusting the valve and new converter help bring it to specs?
we need the readings
X2.
I hope he didn’t charge you for the retest if he didn’t finish it. If you don’t know what readings improved or got worse then you are just taking a shot in the dark. A valve adjustment has almost nothing to do with emssions so that won’t help. It is possible the cat is shot but basically what a cat does is REDUCE emissions, not completely eliminate them. If the engine is not running properly then putting on a new cat will not fix it. However, if it fails all readings by just a bit then yes a new converter should make it pass. As I said above check the car for a tune up just to make sure nothing is worn out, then retest it. Compare the old readings with the new readings and that should be a good indicator as to what is going on with the car.
No the guy didn’t charge me at all he jus test it at 15mph and the reading was still in the hundreds instead of like 87 like it suppose to be. Hmm would a halo converter make it this high? I look below and it does have like a stock converter on it but I think I am going to check and see if the previous owner halo it out now after doing the timing again for a second time well this time from the belt and pulley, also gonna adjust the valves etc and go to this other place and see the difference! I notice yesterday that the spark plugs when I pull out were black, so is it running rich?
the spark plug is not fully black but 3 out of the 4 the tip of it is black while the other one is normal. Its not throwing any codes either, nor is it throwing out black smoke through the exhaust. From the car being in the garage now, um I can smell strong gasoline.
Well here are some pics of the spark plugs
all 4
the spark plugs that is black
normal one, next with black one
I would first do spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, then change O2 sensor. Put 93 octane and drive it around on the streets then the freeway and then go straight to emissions. With what you did so far the cat would be first then if all fails you need to adjust the valves.
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I have change the spark plugs and the wires, I just have not change the cap and rotor, which I am going to do all that by the end of this week! Now if I can’t find 93 octane here um can it jus be 91 octane? Also even tho if no check engine light come on, can an o2 sensor still be bad?
use the octane that is specified for your engine. higher octane can actually do more harm than good from an emissions standpoint. the cap and rotor probably aren’t going to throw off readings all that much. but if you don’t know the last time they’ve been changed, may as well do them.
an o2 sensor can be slow and not throw a code. this would have more of an effect on emissions than tune up parts. it can also take out your cat, if it hasn’t already. assuming it does have slow response
alrighty today i finally got some time to spare and checked my timing from the belt/crank/pulley and it was off about 1 tooth I would say. With the cam gears line UP with the arrow pointing straight up, the TDC is off to the right a bit probably 1/4. I am going to redo my timing from the belt and then correct my timing on the distributor. Now with timing off about a tooth cause it to run that rich? Also I am going to change the cap and rotor, along with new o2 sensor and possibly new cat and then off to smog this weekend 
hopefully it passed if not then time for under the table