use the lines at the sides of the cam gears to check mechanical timing. they should line right up with the mating surface of the valve cover when the crank is at tdc. don’t just have the UP sign pointing straight up
I usually use drill bits (I never have purchased the 5mm punches that it calls for) to line up the camshafts in the head properly and then I just remember that with the crank at TDC and punches in the cams keeping them at TDC, the Timing belt has slack in it, not tension. With inexact punches like I use, it is possible to put the belt on either way.
Another thing I didn’t realize the first time I did this is that “UP” is not actually perpendicular to the ground (since the engine is canted in the engine bay). UP just means “TOP OF ENGINE”.
yeah i made sure that line up and when it is line up the TDC mark is off, but when TDC mark is line up the mechanical timing off so i will have to adjust it. All this will be happening on Friday when I get off of work. Now whats happening Friday is I am going to do my timing again, adjust valves, change o2 sensor etc. um is there anything else I should check/change before attempting smog again? Im gonna take it to smog on Saturday
you’re aware of the method of resetting mechanical timing, yes? the crank pulley and timing cover do not need to come off for this
resetting? um not quite sure on that
just a quick thought, i checked the converter and its not halo out, it still have the honey comb in there so was wondering could it still go bad even tho its not hallow or making rattling noise?
Yes, it can still go bad. It is 20 years old.
damn! so should i swap out the cat converter as well? even though all honey comb is intact, no rattling noise or anything.
see, that’s where the readings come into play. without them, it’s hard to say what’s wrong indefinitely.
Just wondering have anyone on g2ic used the guarantee to pass emission test formula?? Does it really actually work?
Alright just went to smog again today and it failed!! 
but the nox passed this time and co is high a lil! Max was like .67 or .69 and mine measure at like 1.20 or so. What I have done was correct timing, new fuel filter, air filter and o2 sensor. Only thing I have not change is the cat converter so if I change cat converter will it lower the co?
here is the result of it
What I notice about the car now and before is that when like going at higher speed/ higher rpm and then when get to a stop light etc so I have to like slow down and brake, the car like idle down and wants to die! It does not do it all the time but it does so tho and if I don’t rev it back up it will die which suck cuz I may end up hitting the car in front of me cuz the brake won’t work when the car die, I can’t even turn the steerng wheel when it die as well even tho it will still be on ON ignition. So yeah anyone know what could be causing this?