IBTL 
Dude, just shut up. If you had read the entire thread you would have clearly seen that I posted that I tried silicone and it did not work. At this point you’re just wasting thread space.
I think it has to do with your reply (below) to his original post
I am 100% sure silicone does NOT work
Silicone may or may not work for others. Depending on the time and patience u have.
One thing though is if u are using the silicone it is best if there is the old cracked rubber thats was in place as u would use that to make a better seal. If u toss those out becoz it was cracked ripped ur better not to try it with silicone. You’re probably better off dipping the bolts into the silicone and wait 15 mins and then carefully slip it in the hole and let dry to allow it to form a rubber like piece. I dont reccommend this for the average joe as u will get confused and lost, but u get the picture where i am trying to get at.
Also if u apply it and put everything back right away your just stupid.
I have done this before and all i ever need to do is remove all the stuff and plastic bolt. take all the oem cracked rubbers out and dip them in clear silicone and wait 15 mins then slip them through the hole and now apply silicone across or on the hole area and smear it good and let it dry. Before putting everything back pour some water along the gutter of the area and watch for leaks. Fix whatever one u need before putting all back together.
i used clear rtv and sealed the fuck out of it and i have no problems with leaking
Well with the year’s first heavy downfall I get into my car and see (and feel) the passenger floor mat to be wet!!!:bang::bang::bang: I turn on the fan and out comes the Yosemite falls!!!
I thought I fixed this fuker last year!!! So now I’ll have to get back in there sometime this week and reseal everything. The first time around I tried to be conservative and just use the bare minimum of Honda Bond around the holes and stuff. But this time I think I’m going to jizz all over that stuff and seal this leak once and for all! I better order new parts online first…they say it’ll rain for the next three days, what sucks is I’ll have to wait for the car to dry out before fixing it…UGH!!!:bang::bang::bang:
So looks like the honda bond is what failed me this time…it seems it shrank over time which pretty much opened up the leak points once again…so now I need to find an alternative sealant…silicone?? What worked for you guys? or I might just glob the honda bond all over the place.
Pics before:
After…
Redo, let’s hope my new method of sealing the objects up around the edges work…plus I replaced the plastic parts with new ones assuming because they have rubber gaskets those wore out over the years as well:
Haha for realss, I hop into my car and the passenger side was leaking. it wasn’t leaking until I removed the AC lines. Could the AC line near the firewall cause the leak?
I’m tired of mine leaking, I still see people with wet insides. What is the best method as of now? Replacing the whole cowl with all new clips and such?
ever leak i had all i did was replace the to clear plastic pieces from acura there about 3.00 each an no more leaks on 4 cars now
Looks like my last redo worked! We’ve been getting battered here in Norcal and my passenger side floor mats are dry, dry, dry!
I love it!!! :rockon:
Wow Can’t believe this thread is still being posted on like 2-3 years after I did it LOL.
And the last thing I wanted was people fighting on it either -_-. As for BacardiBreezer, if it didn’t work for your bf and you don’t think it works thats fine, nothing wrong if you don’t want to do it this way. Replacing the clips is one way, but I couldn’t replace the window clip because its stuck under the glass because it holds it up and it was siliconed in place by the windshield silicone and rather risk breaking it I had to work with what I had. On another note silicone is used to seal windshield glass from leaking and that holds up perfectly fine, like i said prep is key here.
properly sanded and cleaned metal useds with the proper silicone or any other water sealant will stop leaks. I just used a high temp one just because that area is exposed to heat form the sun and engine. It’s held up fine, if it can be used on engines and stop leaks than it can be used on this, just needs to be cleaned and sanded a bit to make sure it adheres to the surface and needs time to cure. and make sure you smooth out the ends of the silicone so it’s not just a GLOBS on the edges of the metal you want the water to be able to run and move of it not get stuck.
I’ve yet to have any leaks from what I did 3 years later. Hope everyone is having the same luck.
[QUOTE=SOL1D;2128120]Wow Can’t believe this thread is still being posted on like 2-3 years after I did it LOL.
And the last thing I wanted was people fighting on it either -_-. As for BacardiBreezer, if it didn’t work for your bf and you don’t think it works thats fine, nothing wrong if you don’t want to do it this way. Replacing the clips is one way, but I couldn’t replace the window clip because its stuck under the glass because it holds it up and it was siliconed in place by the windshield silicone and rather risk breaking it I had to work with what I had. On another note silicone is used to seal windshield glass from leaking and that holds up perfectly fine, like i said prep is key here.
properly sanded and cleaned metal useds with the proper silicone or any other water sealant will stop leaks. I just used a high temp one just because that area is exposed to heat form the sun and engine. It’s held up fine, if it can be used on engines and stop leaks than it can be used on this, just needs to be cleaned and sanded a bit to make sure it adheres to the surface and needs time to cure. and make sure you smooth out the ends of the silicone so it’s not just a GLOBS on the edges of the metal you want the water to be able to run and move of it not get stuck.
I’ve yet to have any leaks from what I did 3 years later. Hope everyone is having the same luck.[/QUOTE]
It would be nice if the pics from the first post still worked. I want to know exactly what you’re putting the silicone on. I did the 8 grommet fix and i still have a leak. Could you please re-post the pics?
I guess when the boards switched the pics don’t work anymore, when I get around to finding them on my computer i’ll reupload them again no problem.
Ok is it the big white clips in this pic? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/G2Rac/93%20Integra/How%20Tos/Passenger%20Side%20Leak%20Fix/IMGP4751.jpg
If so did you just put silicone around all the edges or do those clips pop off?
[QUOTE=SOL1D;2128120]Wow Can’t believe this thread is still being posted on like 2-3 years after I did it LOL.
And the last thing I wanted was people fighting on it either -_-. As for BacardiBreezer, if it didn’t work for your bf and you don’t think it works thats fine, nothing wrong if you don’t want to do it this way. Replacing the clips is one way, but I couldn’t replace the window clip because its stuck under the glass because it holds it up and it was siliconed in place by the windshield silicone and rather risk breaking it I had to work with what I had. On another note silicone is used to seal windshield glass from leaking and that holds up perfectly fine, like i said prep is key here.
properly sanded and cleaned metal useds with the proper silicone or any other water sealant will stop leaks. I just used a high temp one just because that area is exposed to heat form the sun and engine. It’s held up fine, if it can be used on engines and stop leaks than it can be used on this, just needs to be cleaned and sanded a bit to make sure it adheres to the surface and needs time to cure. and make sure you smooth out the ends of the silicone so it’s not just a GLOBS on the edges of the metal you want the water to be able to run and move of it not get stuck.
I’ve yet to have any leaks from what I did 3 years later. Hope everyone is having the same luck.[/QUOTE]
Worked for me!!
no more leaky floor!
Dm of mD
So, I need to fix my leak… damn Washington and its rain. I just want to verify with somebody who’s done it. In the archived write up it says that part number 91608-sj6-003 is a “white rubber seal” but the dealer said its a little screw/rivet, and the description on acuraoemparts.com is “boot, screw rivet”. So is that the “white rubber seal” or what? And would that probly fix my problem? As long as my rubber seal on the blower motor is still intact anyways… I would like to know ASAP, so I don’t get the wrong parts. Thanks.
EDIT: Nevermind lol, went to the acura dealer and got em…OH and, not sure if it is everywhere now or just here. But i called Honda and they said you have to go to the Acura dealer because its an Acura only part, lol even though its in Honda packaging.
Wow people are still looking at this thread? Well anyway just to let everyone know I fixed all the pictures on my original post so the pictures are now visible again. Sorry it took so long but totally forgot I was suppose to fix this a WHILE ago my bad everyone, hopefully people still find this useful.
Just in case anyone is looking for an alternative to silicone or replacing those grommets. Here is a fix that doesn’t require taking anything apart and uses simple household items:
Yes, that is a beer funnel, pyrex pan, and duct tape.
I was going out of town and had to leave my car at the airport during a major storm. I have since fixed the leak. I had used silicone years ago to fix this leak and it suddenly came back. Turns out it was one of those white clip things like you guys mention in this post.
Enjoy the ghetto pics!
If I ever have to work on this again I’m taking it to the darn shop.
It’s enough of a hassle that the rear right tail-light still leaks after siliconing up the whole rear end.
If the front ever starts leaking again, it’s going to the shop!
Dm
I think I might try that flex seal shit on it soon, I used it on something else and it worked pretty well.