DIY motor mount fixes

OPTION 1 - PREFERRED

3M Windo-weld. urethane blend. its in one of those caulk tubes, so one of those metal guns that you stick them in would be useful, or i guess you can just jam something in the back to squeeze it out. cost from local parts store was about $9.

duct tape. use this to cover off one side. cover the bolt hole on the exposed side.

stick the nose of the tube down towards the bottom of one side of the rubber. as you fill, pull up slowly until you reach the top. you dont want to just fill from the top cuz there will be air pockets.
if your rubber is actually torn from the mount, make sure you move it back to its original position cuz after it cures it will be almost impossible to reposition and wont hold the motor correctly.
let dry at least overnight, preferrably 24hrs or follow manufacturers suggestion.

remove tape from bottom, and you have the option of filling in the pockets. i made both sides flush. touching up doesnt look pretty but who cares. i guess you can sand it down or something.

OPTION 2 - GHETTO

remember the pieces of the bump stops you cut off when installing your springs, you saved them didnt you? or how about those left over prothane bushings? i stuffed them in my rear mount around the stock rubber.
-update: i filled zip lock baggies with the urethane (messy) and stuffed them in the gaps.
-update: i swapped them out with spares and tried the ES inserts. too harsh. this time around i may do the baggies again, or leave some space like the oem mounts do for even more comfort.

RESULTS

less wheel hop/more power to the ground, especially when i stuffed the rear mount (that b*tch is a mother to remove). i can peel out again!

slightly more vibration? possibly. i cant really tell since i did this at the same time i swapped heads and did the valve adjustment which eliminated a lot of the previous vibration. i dont know if my rear mount was torn before the swap either. however, i highly doubt its as stiff as the prothanes. possibly closer to the energy suspension offerings.

UPDATE 06.17.04:
i finally got the motor in without the es inserts but reinforced the main points with a little dab here and there and the car doesnt vibrate anymore, even with the a/c on. i haven’t noticed much wheel hop, but it doesn’t hop and skip violently like it did with the inserts. can’t explain that one… the only difference is i went from a slipping stock clutch to a cm stage 5.

UPDATE 08.11.04:
ive since realized that although the urethane filler holds up well, it doesn’t stick to the motor mount housing, so it may slide if you dont fill it up completely. i tried to follow the contour of the original bushing while adding little fingers in the spaces. not sure what im gonna do next, i really dont want to fill them up completely again…

wow, that windo-weld stuff sounds interesting. Might be a cheap way to get a good happy medium between the stock soft mounts and the stiffer aftermarket urethane ones.

do you have any pics of it? and what color is the windo-weld when its dry?

sorry no pics. i guess i can take some of the drivers side when i find my camera. its just plain dark black. pretty much like asphault. when it dries its not pretty as it dries in exactly the same form as when it was soft. i guess you can sand it flat, but when installed its not even noticeable anyways.

Originally posted by XDEep
[B but when installed its not even noticeable anyways. [/B]

hehe, depends on how anal you are.

mounts

does the first way work?, i really want the car to stop shaking at stop lights but i also want more hp to the wheels. but if it makes the car shake more than it does now i dont wanna do it.
TIA

Dominick
hatien@mail.com

Re: mounts

Originally posted by 90TegLS
[B]does the first way work?, i really want the car to stop shaking at stop lights but i also want more hp to the wheels. but if it makes the car shake more than it does now i dont wanna do it.
TIA

Dominick
hatien@mail.com [/B]

since the urethane is stiffer than oem, i assume it would shake more. however, if your mounts are already shot, its hard to say if itll add or reduce the current vibration.

mounts

does anyone know of a liguid that eventually solidifies into something simular to rubber (soft yet sturdy)???
If so please hook me up with the info. Id hate to spend 60 per mount.

Did you guys know that energy suspension makes inserts that fix broken mounts. Well it doesn’t really fix them but supports them so there like new. If your mounts aren’t broken the inserts will make your motor mounts stiffer. But if they are broken the inserts will take out all the flex and will be like oem again. The best part is the inserts are only $18.31 for the whole set. Overboost.com sells them. Heres the address http://www.overboost.com/obs/product.asp?pid=18891

Hope this helps someone:)

Re: DIY motor mount fixes

Originally posted by XDEep
possibly closer to the energy suspension offerings.

another reason i didnt just get the es bushings is cuz i cant remove the stinking rear mount. right mount was annoying too, so i just stuffed em both. right mount yielded a lot better shifting from my auto.
however, i plan to get the oem for the rear, i care less for wheel hop now and more for comfort…

i was linked to this site the other day for the same reason.http://importnut.net/motormount.htm :smiley:

really? its not there anymore heh.

anywho, ive since picked up a pack of es motor mount inserts and i think im gonna put them in when i do the manual tranny swap. by touch alone they seem softer than the urethane filler. im passing on the oem mounts since my future plans will tear those suckers up :smiley:

wow… i never seen this post… but i seen the importnut one, i filled up with polyurathane caulk, filled em up good, then with other spots, used spare inner tube bicycle tires packed in…

works well… motor doesnt move when reving… :smiley:

second gear breaks traction like nothin…

i tried replacing the front and rear with spare mounts and the energy suspension inserts, and there is even MORE vibration! theres about as much vibration in neutral as my mounts had while in gear. next chance i get im going back to my windoweld mounts. or maybe even something softer.

updated first post with partially filled urethane only.

www.mcmaster.com

80 Shore A Durometer - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644K11 ~$23.51
94 Shore A Durometer - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644K18 ~$23.51

another alternative. 94 seems to work well for people, while 80 is still good, but does give a little. they still complain of vibration with 80. not sure what the windo-weld durometer rating is, but these guys say it is too soft! odd. it seems super stiff when solid to me. i would probably go with the 80 or less unless you have a dedicated track car. at 23bucks ill stick with windo-weld.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=3033

“dont use window weld… it does not hold up as long as liquid Urethane…” -again, odd.

I have the Enrg. Susp. mount inserts and the left side does not match the my mount, I got them from Overboost, they have been very helpfull on getting me some info. I called up my self and I got the run around. Overboost got through. THey had told them that if the poly mount does not fit to toss it and not put that one in, I was :wtf:
so I don’t know if you guy have had this problem?

I had to shave the drivers side inserts some and cut about 1/4" off the ends and they slapped together after that.

the ES pack comes with only the front and rear, with one for the 90-91 and one for the 92-93. prothane makes the sides.

I don’t understand?

I just got a call from ES, and they are telling me tha none of there kits come with side insert poly mounts, they only sell you front and back, they just package them for the hell of it. so the extra one that I have is from a 3rd Gen Tegy and or a Civic, sweet…dang this is very expensive