found examples of bushing durometer ratings from spoon http://www.opakracing.com/Catalog/Product_files/URETHANE%20BUSH%20SET.htm
they say the stock dc/eg suspension bushings are rated at 75, with the spoon ones being 95 and 90.
found examples of bushing durometer ratings from spoon http://www.opakracing.com/Catalog/Product_files/URETHANE%20BUSH%20SET.htm
they say the stock dc/eg suspension bushings are rated at 75, with the spoon ones being 95 and 90.
I had the same problem with my energy inserts. I had to cut one to make it fit and the other ones dont even come close. They were cheap so its not that big of a deal
Check this out founf out the ES does not make side insert mounts, they only make the front and back…this is where the pwer is transferd the most.
I got and extra one on mine but they lable the stuff as 3 part, I don’t understand
its for the 92-93 rear i believe
Yes sir,
I remember reading andarticle on this in SCC or one of them.
Good for you. Thanks for playing, try again!
Sorry, I’ve been drinking and the later it gets, the nastier I get. I’m actually a pretty nice person around from around 10am to 2 PM (unless I am really hungover from the night before). Peace… I have 3 motor mounts to replace still, but I am old. May never get to it.
My brother has been telling me to do that window weld stuff for months, and I still went out and baught the es inserts. I guess I’m still going to have to use the window weld for the mount that isn’t included in the es kit anyways.
Dont be Cheep
People it only cost like 35$ for the 2 Energy Suspention motor mounts
KICK ASS
Yes they do KICK ASS, only thing your motor has no room to move around and it will sake hard
So for most comfort, and lack of shake - it’s been found that partially filling with windoweld is the best way to go?
i wouldnt say that. oem, or using a rubber with a lower durometer rating (<75) would be the most comfortable. the thing with partially filling with windoweld is that the windoweld will not bond to the motor mount metal. if say you make a finger that touches the metal but has gaps on both sides, the finger will move around. how does honda do it? i don’t know. superglue?
Is the durometer also the Tear Strength ?
such as 28 pli
or 75 pli?
not sure. i see them listed as 45A, or 75A. maybe this attached diagram will help.
do you have to take the mount off to do this?
nope. just put some in a zip lock baggie and stuffed it in.
ya thats right, SHORE A HARDNESS = durometer.
the thing we have to figure out is, how does a softer fully filled mount compare to a harder mount with gaps (oem)?
I dunno. I’ll have to try it when I swap the b20 in…
So here the deal
I cant find 3M window weld anywhere (HD, Lowes, Ace.)
I have however found a polyurathane window and door sealent made by who i believe is DL :think:
Would this serve as a reliable replacment.?
[QUOTE=BLKACK1;1666259]So here the deal
I cant find 3M window weld anywhere (HD, Lowes, Ace.)
I have however found a polyurathane window and door sealent made by who i believe is DL :think:
Would this serve as a reliable replacment.?
[/QUOTE]
yes it works
i am corrently using the one that smells like chocolet
i think it was the window sealent or soemthing
it reportedly has a shore of 40-60
thats about good enough imo for the da
the cracks adheavisve however is 80-90 SHORE depending on airbubbles
i suggest you not use that one