tow the frame there? dissassemble it there? bahh
Hybridnate you’re right it’s a safety hazard. But it will cost more than a ocuple bucks if I take it to the shop. I will most likely try to repair it myself. I’m going to advance auto parts tomorrow and see what they have. I’ve never re-tapped stripped thredds before. I’m wondering how much torque is required to re-tap it? I’ve only got a 75 ft-lbs torque wrench.
I would work on it today but we’ve been hit by a blizzard. 2-3 feet of snow 
this has happend to my car before i bought it .the guy i bought it from just welded it to the inner fender wall ,its been almost to years now and it still looks like its holding good(knocking on wood) not saying this the best way to fix it .but if your short on cash and know how to weld its an easy way out.
Never welded before. No tools either.
I was thinking get longer bolts and secure it with nuts on the other side but it can’t be accessed from inside the trunk without cutting a hole in the sheet metal. Scratch that idea.
Originally posted by HybridNate
What if the above stories were to take place at highway speeds?
Funny thing is, it happened as I turned on to the highway! And I didnt totally realize it until I was at that speed. See, when it happened, I fishtailed but I corrected with steering. I figured I just blew a tire, so I cautiously drove to the next freeway exit with my hazards on.
People sure had some crazy looks when they drove past me.
PLEASE DON’T WELD YOUR CAR TO FIX IT!!! That is GHETTO, and any G2 deserves better!
Either drill it out and rethread it yourself or like HybridNate said, take it somewhere to be done properly.
It was actually quite easy to repair by rethreading the hole and all it cost was the proper size thread kit ($7 I think). I’m not sure which size threader I used, but actually, it only matters what the size of the new bolt is and whether it will fit through the holes on the rear suspension piece (the part/bracket thing that the bolts go through before threading into the body). And since I just used what we had in my garage, the hole that corresponded to the stripped threads had to be drilled out just slightly so the new bolt would fit through.
-Did that make any sense?
I want to be able to use the old bolts. so I need a threader that matches the inside threads-- 10 x 1.25 mm
Bolt removal; Rear Camber Trick
Sounds kind of funny, I know…but I’ve been attacking this bolt/s for 4 hours now; my hands are grimey and bloody… I finally gave up after trying wd-40, some rust removing spray and some good old fashion’ hev-ho. The bolt/s I’m talking about are for the rear camber correction/washer trick. I just finished my cousins car with no prob…but mine is a different story. Any advice? Should I just give up?
You’re not trying to wrench it inside the wheel well are you? I used a few extensions to get the wrench outside the wheel well and a cheater bar. HTH
1/2 inch tools and PB Blaster
Still no luck… I need some air tools :jerkoff:
Originally posted by 92Teghatch
Still no luck… I need some air tools :jerkoff:
get antoerh jack and try jacking the entire wheel hub tc up so the holes line up easier…
tried… my car goes into the shop thursday… I guess I’ll just have to ask them to do it. :gunright:
Originally posted by 92Teghatch
tried… my car goes into the shop thursday… I guess I’ll just have to ask them to do it. :gunright:
weird… lube it up before insersion… haha j/k. hum I struggled with mines but I got mines to go in eventually after some swearing. it sure fuxed my camber tho BUT you will coem taht much clsoer to rubbing the fenders and also the rear will look liek it sits SLIGHTLY higher
got fire?
blow torches work wonders … took 20 minutes of acetylene to take my hub nut off my old talon. get this, 24 inch (or so) snap on breaker bar and a 6 foot long steel pipe, like a real thick and strong one. jumped up and down, the tire actually hopped with all the cars wieght on it, before the nut would budge. not thats a whole hell of a lot of torque.
1.25 is different from 1.5… it should be 10 x 1.25 but, is it coarse or fine?
it’s fine
XDEep, thanks for the correction. I was looking at the washer hole size in my annotations on my original order sheet. And yes, they are fine threads.
alrighty, 10 x 1.25 fine thread, 40-50mm long, grade 8.8 or 10.5, 4-8mm of washers, future alignment.
it will be easier if you get one that has a chamfered (angle cut end). otherwise use extreme caution when reinstalling these bolts. you should be able to hand tighten them all the way in, DO NOT FORCE them in. use a jack to lift the rotor up and down, and a prybar under the upper arm to center the holes.
btw, this thread has been merged with other rear camber threads in case you get confused. archivethis 
so while i was getting an alignment one of the bolts fell out. i thought it was about time i fixed it. first i got a 12x1.25 thread bit and matching drill bit but realized i dont have enough room down there to do this without taking hours and cursing incessantly. instead i thought i’d try and restore the original thread instead.
i got a 10x1.25 thread bit for $3.50, a can of cutting oil, and the handle that turns the bit and went to town (<20 total?). takes about 5-10min for each hole and works beautifully. i was so impressed the way the new bolts slide right in i thought id go ahead and freshen up the other hole which was already fine. as for integrity, well unless you forcibly stripped the entire hole (i couldnt even with an impact gun), only a portion of the depth is stripped so theres plenty of the original to hold the bolts in.
remember to do it very carefully and use a jack to lift the rotor if need be. one side needed it, one side didnt.
so, you dont need to drill and thread, just rethread the original 10x1.25 holes. if that didnt work, i was about to say screw it and weld in some studs 
btw with 1.5" eibachs and ef konis on the lowest perch (~1.8"drop, even with 1.8" fronts), i used 4 washers on each side equaling about 7mm to achieve -0.5* camber. your results will vary, so it might be easier to get shims instead of washers. dont forget to get an alignment as your rear toe will be way out. after that, you can try finding places that give free alignment checks to fine tune your settings