DIY Rear Camber fix

On the 90 Integra, can you remove the rear body panels and access the 2 19mm bolts? On the Passenger side, I snapped both of the welded nuts, it’s semi tight. I have driven like this for about 4 months now, still haven’t gotten an alignment :bang: Well this week i plan to remove the entire rear half of my car and see if i can reweld those damn nuts, if you guys like i will provide pics of this process. If anyone knows how to access those nuts please let me know. I know by the fuel cell you can’t access them, but i believe you should be able to see them on the inside. Not sure will keep you informed.

Well it was accident i guess cause there was a new guy working at the shop and i asked him for a price. He said 45.00 but the alignment guy normally charges 65.00, since i had already been told the price would be 45.00 the stuck with it.
the sad part is that the guy also installed my front camber kit
so
computerised 4-wheel alignment+ Ingall’s instalation=45.00:up:

ok ill save up for an allignment. As for those nuts that broke off, DO NOT TRY TO GET TO THE FROM THE INSIDE because YOU WILL FAIL. There is like 5 layers of metal between the inside and those nuts. Instead try cutting from directly below them on the outside and you only have to cut thru one layer.

Is it safe to cut below them???

yeah i just cut a slit and bent the metal open to get inside and then painted the exposed metal and bent it all back into shape. If you want you could get that spot welded back closed. Its safe tho. It wont effect stability or anything.

actually i might need to do that to mine. did you guys notice the left one is the hardest to get an aftermarket bolt in? both sides of mine are kinda stripped.

i got my 4wheel alignment done at a local shop and they charged 49, most shops charge around there. initially the other guy said 45 for 4wheel, 35 for 2 wheel. this shop is kinda big and busy too. right next to a performance part shop.

anyways, im never going to a regular shop again. im gonna find a good performance shop and pay the premium. the previous guy didnt have any paper to print from, laughed at my notion of torquing down the camber kit bolts, and i didnt even bother asking to fine tune the camber and toe. luckily i memorized what the screen said and ill just tune it at home =/

Cool, i need to do that thanks for the info, still gutting interior for weight.

rear upper arm nuts stripped?..

i have my rear camber adjusted with the washer trick.i tapped out the nuts b/c they were beginning to strip.now obviously the bolts tend to wiggle and are a little looser than what they were when the bolt was binding.everything still tightened up ok.do i need to worry about this?how much stress is on them?has anyone ever cut through the inside of the car to gain access to the factory welded nuts?

any answers greatlly appreciated!
ps i did install longer #8 bolts when shimming, also put a drop of loctite on threads.

thanx shawn

I have the same problem. I read somewhere on here, it is easier to cut through the outside than the inside. On the inside is like 5 layers, on the outside is one layer. Don’t cut right below but maybe like 3 to 3 1/2 inches below it and it should be fine. I’m doing it today. I’ll try to take digital pics for ya. I know this has happened to a lot of people.

Originally posted by kincaidintegra
I have the same problem. I read somewhere on here, it is easier to cut through the outside than the inside. On the inside is like 5 layers, on the outside is one layer. Don’t cut right below but maybe like 3 to 3 1/2 inches below it and it should be fine. I’m doing it today. I’ll try to take digital pics for ya. I know this has happened to a lot of people.
Why dont you guys just get some oversized bolts and tap them into the existing holes?? That could save you a LOT of work and unnecessary hacking on your car. You dont want to cut holes in the frame of your car near the control arm mounting points. That can create a HUGE weakness in the frame that could result in a serious accident. I would hate to hear that one of your guys’ tegs is totaled because their upper control arm ended up coming through the frame during some spirited driving.

Later,
BR

ya both of the right ones on mine are stripped. hm thanks for reminding me i just have them sitting there lol

Has anyone stripped the threads in the rear camber holes before?

I’m talking about the holes where you screw in the 2 bolts that secures the upper arm to the car body. I’ve already posted this in the suspension forum but I’d like to get more feedback on what to do.

I think some people cut a hole in the sheetmetal to get to the bolts and had new bolts re-welded on. Seems a little extreme to me. Maybe you could try to re-tap them. Take the car to a machine shop and see if they could help you. i dunno.

Machine shop will re-tap them for you no problem. If it is really stripped, you may have to go to a bigger size bolt but if it is minor and you haven’t been driving on it with the bolt in a stripped hole, you should be fine with just a re-tap.

ya the ones towards the front of the car- i stripped both. its been like a year and i still havent fixed it yet. not sure what im gonna do…

yeah i did that too. just got the bolts to go in as much as possible and have left it like that for months. so far no problems.

Yes, that same thing happened to me. I left them alone for about 6 months and they were fine, but when I put in my new shocks, I re-threaded the stripped holes and they work great now.

This might not happen to you, but one time I was driving and those bolts must have fallen out on one side because my wheel folded outward as I took a turn. It looked like the worst positive camber you could imagine, practically driving on the wheel parallel to the ground. I did pull over though and found that those bolts had fallen out. I guess thats what happens when you let your little brother help out. Good luck.

That is not what I wanted to hear!

One of the bolts doesn’t tighten (but it screws in all the way) and the other bolt only screws in half way. I think I notice a slight wobble when I’m cornering. But it could be just a placebo effect.

haha ok we should really get off our lazy arses and deal with this before somethign bad happens then. mine arent really loose but its possible of course- even though ive whipped my tail around quite a bit lately and they look ok.

jcbadcura any tips on how you rethreaded it?

TAKE IT TO A MACHINE SHOP AND HAVE IT TAKEN CARE OF PROFESSIONALLY. What if the above stories were to take place at highway speeds? How would the driver deal with a situation like that? Do the responsible thing and do not save a couple of bucks when it not only concerns your safety but the motorists and their passengers around you.