I am boosting 6 lbs now on my 153,000 miles LS motor that is All Stock except for the Thicker Head Gasket.
I have a Greddy Digital Boost Controler and would like to install it with 2 settings. One at like 7 lbs for daily driving and the other for FUN NIGHTS at like 13lbs…Or what ever amount of lbs that can take me safely to like 270WHP.
Should I get a BlockGuard or can I just skip it and keep going like I am…?
Thanks for any comments…
cant hurt, and there cheap too.
you don’t need any sleeve protection at those boost levels as long as you’re not detonating. However, I wouldn’t run more than 10 lbs on stock pistons. I was running 12 and blew 2 ringlands on a relatively conservative tune.
Hmm…Let’s see some more oppinions…I have read that peeps have been boostin more than say 13 lbs on stock internals all day and no issues…I think I am going to install the Clutch/ 7lbs FlyWheel and the Digital Boost Controler with a good tune for like 12 lbs for fun runs and 7 Daily. If anything then I will have to come back V-Tec Style…
Blockguards are crap. totally sueless. And alot of people aren’t aware it’s not an easy tap the guaard in and you’re good to go. You ALWAYS want to rehone the cylidner walls incase the guard ovals the sleeves.
yea crap, you DONT need these.
get a good tune and u wont even have to pull the motor apart.
Thanks for the advice peeps…Much appreciated…I am just going to get a nice Tune for High setting at like 12 lbs or what ever will get me close to 265-270 WHP…Then for low setting I will get like 7 lbs tune…
I will post up the specs soon…Thanks again…
good luck
For what you’re doing you don’t need a block guard. However, if you’re going into the realm of 25+psi built motors such as this,
then It might be a good idea. Otherwise, you should be fine.
Block guards work great. Im boost creeping from 14psi to 28psi on 92 octane here and my motor is perfectly fine. I dont see anything wrong with using one if your going to do a bore and hone job. Just make sure if you decide to use one, have it installed properly. Weld in the guard, and then bore/hone, and then deck the block as well.
14 to 28 psi is crazy
14-28psi boost creep wth, May as well make it hold 28 the whole way.
only retards put blockgaurds in built motors
you dont need one
and 28psi on 92 octane is a lie or homosexuality…but
i think i remember jdmjerk being serious shit so in that case…its not creeping its spooling lol
Either way 92 octane and 28 psi is still playing with fire without any other kinda water inejction etc.The highest I go on 92 pump is 22-23. anything more and I prefer to use water injection or higher octane gas.
speak of the devil… now this is going to go a little off topic but hopefully i fixed the boost issue today… I just got back checking for clearances… i went from a 38mm evolution to the tial 44mm
Hopefully this will fix my issue
I wanted to run 18-19 psi but I never had a boost gauge except for when we were on the dyno. Little did we know, that gauge was broken. Once I had put my own on, I found out I was spiking at least 28psi. The a/f was happy but yeah… I dunno… I would call it homosexuality if it were my choice 
block guards do work if you install them right. I run FC on my car with a knock sensor and I’m barley seeing 50 knock on a full pass up to 9200 with gsr cams…
Good luck!
A block guard is a waste for 12lbs.
maybe so but for $150 installed properly worth it imo
what is this weld the guard in??
I dont have photoshop installed other wise I would resize down the picture I have of my block but basically you weld the block guard in place about 1/8" below the deck (Your going to deck the block the block after ward so remember to leave yourself enough room). You have to deck the block to make the surface flat again due to the welding. Basically you “spot” weld the guard in. On cylinder 1, one spot weld at 1 o’clock and 5 o’clock, and then on cylinder 4 do two spot welds at 7 and 11. This ensures the guard is held in place and isnt going to raise up and sit flush with the head under heavy driving conditions which causes its to over heat. Since the weakest part of the sleeve is closest to the top of the stroke, it helps re-enforce (were not talking like the re-enforcement like sleeves now either) the upper half of the stock cylinder walls. REMEMBER THOUGH, THIS IS NOT AN ALTERNATIVE TO SLEEVING. ITS ONLY INSURANCE.
you dont need photoshop, use paint. go to like tools, then click stretch/skew. reduce the size to like 75%.