Hey guys its finally time to replace my squeaking looped power rack and pinion. It lasted me a long ass time over 16yrs of hard abuse. cant really ask for anything better than that. Or can I? I’m thinking about replacing it with an ef manual rack. I was following http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?201469-EF-Manual-Rack-Bushing-Kits&highlight=steering+rack+bushings thread about ef manual rack bushings kit but it seems like there no longer available. Has anybody done this install without the kit? What will I need? Thanks in advance.
Bumps!! Trying to contact that dude widebody_civic@hotmail.com for one of those kits but no answer… Doing a crx si rack swap on my 93 da let me know what you end up doing http://forums.g2ic.com/member.php?297-gTIntegra
I just did it without the kit. Drove it a little ways, made a u turn and all seemed good. I have to fix other things in order to go for a longer drive and take it to the alignment shop though to know more.
I used this for my swap.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?215147-How-To-Manual-Rack-Swap
Alright thanks for looking out bro I’m gonna fallow it too where did you get all your washers and spacers?Lowes, Home Depot, autozone?
I got mine from ACE. Home Depot and Lowes didn’t carry the right grade of bolt.
I thought people said the turn radius on the ef rack was less than ours. Is that true? Some say it is but not if you use both da inner and outer rods.
I bought all new da inner and outers. I’ve only driven it down my block and u-turned back to my house, no issues other than I need to adjust the play. Once I drive it further I’ll see if I notice a difference.
I got a CRX Si rack which has a slightly better turning radius lock to lock than the DX. Who knows if it is actually out of an Si tho.
Where did you get the rack from?
Local forum azht.net.
Doesn’t really matter to me at this point if it’s an Si rack or not. It’s nice to see a cleaner engine bay and I doubt the difference lock to lock is anything that really matters.
[QUOTE=da6YO;2321131]…I doubt the difference lock to lock is anything that really matters.[/QUOTE]Probably not. Out of curiosity, how many lock-to-lock turns is the new rack?
I finally fixed it and got to drive a distance. Need to adjust the play side to side, but even with that it felt solid. Little tough to turn when stopped, but seems like something you wouldn’t really notice after a few days.
So nice to finally drive this thing after like 7 months.
When I had the car off the ground it seemed like lock to lock was 3 full rotations, then a little bit more. Not sure what the power rack was.
All you need is a ps delete vss, the one without the lines. Looks like a ef single cam vss.
Let me know if your interested.
[QUOTE=da6xsi06;2321163]All you need is a ps delete vss, the one without the lines. Looks like a ef single cam vss.
Let me know if your interested.[/QUOTE]
I just looped the existing speed sensor and everything works normal.
You have an ef vss?
Yeah you can find the one you need from a auto ef, trust me it works.
[QUOTE=da6YO;2321144] When I had the car off the ground it seemed like lock to lock was 3 full rotations, then a little bit more. No sure what the power rack was.[/QUOTE]In that case they are about the same, thanks.
[QUOTE=PMI;2321217]In that case they are about the same, thanks.[/QUOTE] After driving it for a few days now, the turning radius really isn’t something you’d notice, the only thing that makes the difference is the energy it takes to turn at lower speed. If you’re not moving it’s fairly tough.
Why couldn’t you just use the stock rack and remove the valve from the unit.
I’ve seen a post here that shows how to turn your power rack to a manual.
Hey guys I have another option besides swapping steering racks. I recently got my 93 DA on the road, and I took the valve body off of my power rack. If you just do that you will experience a lot of slop in the steering. However if you notice there is a concenitric bearing that has a pin on it. The pin sticks into the valve body and determines wich way pressure is applied to the rack. If you make a plate that uses the bolt holes for the valve body and drill a hOle for that pin to stick through and hold it in its neutral position it will remove the slack from the steering. Car is harder to turn but not unbearable.
In all honesty, after doing the manual swap…I’d rather have rebuilt my power rack. Trying to maneuver a parking lot at slow speed is annoying. It feels great once moving, but if you daily your car I’d say sticking with the power steering is better.
I’ve been toying around with the idea of swapping to an EF rack. I currently have a de-powered rack using the old write up from G2ic.
I have a major question that I have not seen answered anywhere. For EG’s and DC’s they de-power the rack by removing the middle ring on on the steering rack. My brother did this in his EG and it worked out very well. My buddy also did this on his Miata. Why has this not been recommended for DA’s (write-up). When I look at the parts diagram it appears to have the same ring??
